Golf VI R :: Weird Interior LED Light Glow After Switch Off?
Dec 10, 2012
Had to make an emergency trip to the store last night for diapers and as I was driving I noticed in the rearview mirror that the reading lights over the back seat had a very faint glow to them. I looked up at the front seat lights and they were glowing too. It is very subtle. I installed the ECS interior LED kit some months ago. My windows are tinted and there was no other light around to cause a reflection. When I turned the car off and the interior lights faded off, the glow was still there.
This morning (500 am) I was walking the dog and noticed some of my neighbor's holiday lights had a similar glow although they were clearly off. Is this common for LEDs?
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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I get in the car and the light is off. I open the drivers side door and the light wont go on. I am driving and open the door no warning no light. Where the sensor is for the door? I don't have a bently. How to trouble shoot this or diag it?
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All interior lights (window switches, gauges, etc.) are all out. Headlights work, map lights work. He told me the dimmer switch is very warm all the time, but everything attached is out. Would it be a faulty dimmer switch? I had him check all the fuses, relays, but they're all good. I was wondering if he would need a new dimmer switch all together.
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I have the 2010 VW Tiguan White SEL.
When I drive the car, per the specs, the locks all lock once I go over 5mph.
However, when I stop the car, the interior rear tailgate release button only unlocks the rear tailgate part-way: the tailgate is loose, but will not open. Same behavior when using the rear tailgate release button on the key remote.
The dealer told me they applied a "software patch" so that now when I drive the car, all the locks will still lock. The "software patch" however now causes all the locks to unlock once I stop the car and put it the car transmission into Park. Is this "software patch" and actual firmware upgrades or is the dealer just changing the Convenience settings on this car?
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I have been having an issue with my interior lights, namely all the dash lights (cluster, climate, stereo, etc)
I have to keep switching the euro switch back and forth until it finally switches on the interior lights. The headlights still work but not the fogs, unless the interior lights go on.
What this could be? Perhaps an electric problem? Faulty euro switch?
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I'm noticing an interesting thing with my GTI...whenever I step on the gas and whenever I let go, I hear clicks coming from the light switch. I've only noticed it on low speeds, perhaps because the engine noise is low...
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My car got broken into 2002 VR6 4 motion.
Windows no longer roll down.
Trunk doesn't open.
Interior lights don't turn on.
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I suppose it could be unrelated but yesterday i was showing my coworker how easy it was to remove the headlight switch on my 2010 golf tdi (he has an a3). I took it out of the slot, unplugged it, plugged it back in, and slid it back into place. im sure i didnt yank on the wiring harness but who knows. I went to turn on my car and now i have an airbag fault showing up for the driver seat position sensor. I looked under the seat and everything is still plugged in, along with in the little access panel where the wiring goes.
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels: 5K0-959-655.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 959 655 B HW: 5K0 959 655 B
Component: AirbagVW10G 021 0706
Serial number: 003C4R009H0T
Coding: 00003031
[Code] .....
I tried to reset it but it comes right back on.
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I noticed that there is no parking light position on the headlight switch, so how does the headlight switch work? Either all OFF or all on? Or is the on position really "auto"
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I have a 2000 E150 (Glavel Conversion) van and the interior lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened, although they used to. They also no longer turn on from the headlight dimmer switch. They will turn on individually if the manual switch at each light is pressed while the engine is running, so the bulbs and wiring appear to be working. I replaced the headlight switch with no noticeable effect. Is there a timing circuit that switches these on for a short period of time to allow illuminated entry that could have failed? If so, where would I find the module and how would I test? Relays and fuses look good.
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Going down a steep hill tonight. Been running for 30 mins - all 100% fine. Was in 2nd gear - had selected it for engine braking. Suddenly got Engine Fault Workshop message - ABS warning light and flashing glow plug symbol.
Continued to drive fine. Definitely not limping! Came home and scanned it. First scan had ABS intermittent fault. Cleared all faults. Engine Fault warning in MFD has now go. Still drives fine only with annoying flashing light!
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3
Data version: 20120401
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton D1
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 07 08 09 11 13 15 16 17 18 19 23 27 28 29 2E
34 36 37 38 39 46 47 55 56 57 65 66 68 69 71 75 76 77
VIN: WVWZZZ3DZ58004546 Mileage: 76780km/47708miles
[Code] ......
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Just set off on a day out, got about 3 miles and the cars gone into limp mode (running smoothly but no power) with the glow plug light flashing. I got back to the caravan so we weren't stuck at the side of the road and tried restarting it. It starts off for about a minute before coming back on. I've noticed that revving it in neutral the revs linger for a second our so after taking my foot off as if its not recognizing that the throttle position has changed.
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My 1.8T with auto trans is stuck in park. I've read that the likely culprit is the break light switch but before I order the part and install it I wanted to check what else it can be because it was working fine before I fixed some coil wires. Basically I unplugged the ECU and tested continuity from the coil connectors to the ecu connectors.
I found an issues, resolved it, plugged everything back in, fire the car up, turned it off, re-installed all the covers, etc. Then I repaired a broken wire in the trunk lid wiring that was broken. But when I went to back it out of my garage I couldn't get it out of park.
If it's just happened to go while doing all this other work then it's just a coincidence, but are there other things I can check based on the ignition work I've been doing?
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I have a 2005 B6 TDi 2.0 sports 140bhp passat and have encountered a glow plug lamp problem. The light came on while i was driving and the car seemed to lose power. We then switched it off and restarted and it was fine but then the problem recurred a few days later. The light has come on both times when i have accelerated on the motorway. What it could be?
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Recently I noticed that three LEDs in my 05 SantaFe's high mount stop light glow even without the brake applied. When the brake pedal is depressed, the entire light glows as it should. But only the three LEDs glow at all times.
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2001 Excursion Service Engine soon light came on, took it to Auto Zone, said #1 cylinder glow plug. I have a Superchips tuner, can I diagnose it with it? Which is the #1 cylinder?
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I have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?
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When I turn off my 2010 Golf TDI it sounds like a jet shutting off. I've had the car for over a year and it just started doing this. Is this just a noisy fan winding down?
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Car started idling weird last night. Drops to about 500 then up to 1000, thrn down again. CEL has been on for over a month but has not affected driving. Engine shakes and doesn't sound normal. I was told by mechanic CEL was caused by a vacuum leak, but he didn't have the smoke machine to pinpoint the leak. That was over a month ago and I haven't had the chance to go back. What are the first things I could check for besides the vacuum leak?
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As the title states, I am getting a weird click from what seems to be both front and back when going over bumps or turning slow. Thinking it may be sway bar bushings or something like that, but not 100%... Its also not your typical blown CV boot click either, its more like something is flexing and hitting into something...
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