So I was getting my car flashed to stage 1 at a dealership here in the Chicago suburbs and there was CSG R in there with the timing belt shredded. Turns out water pump came apart, shreded the timing belt, and apparently the pistons smashed the valves. I got a call from my friend whos a mechanic and said another one is getting towed there today with the same issue. Both have between 2k and 3k miles on them.
View 24 RepliesI was driving my 2005 RX 330 (138k miles) North on I-75 through Atlanta in rush hour traffic when the car completely died in the left hand lane w/ no shoulder. GDOT stopped six lanes of traffic to push us up and over a couple of hundred yards to a right shoulder. It was determined that due to a coolant leak from the water pump the timing belt malfunctioned and shredded.
I had heard that the water pump should be replaced during the 90k maintenance when the timing belt is changed, but my water pump was not replaced according to my maintenance records. I understand from reading a couple of posts that this isn't always required but that they do check the water pump. Is this correct? And if so should they have noticed that there was a potential problem?
So, I somehow ended up with a hole in my oil pan. Long story short: water pump seized which shredded the serpentine belt. Had the car towed to the dealer. They found the hole in the oil pan. Pretty sure it wasn't there prior to the tow, and unfortunately I didn't watch the driver unload the car when we got there. Both tow company and dealer have just shrugged their shoulders on it.
I let the dealer replace the water pump because it's not something I was interested in tackling with everything that needs to be moved out of the way to get to it. However, I towed the car home myself (flatbed carrier from U-haul) to do the oil pan. I just got
So after saying "We don't work on that model" when I asked for a timing belt / water pump change (yup, they actually said that), I went in today to try and get a second key made since the guy I bought the Phaeton from only had 1. I do not have the little code. I was told that there was nothing they could do without the code. My only hope would be to contact EVE directly.
View 2 RepliesHow to change the timing belt and water pump on a 2006 2.0t passat?
View 3 RepliesI replaced a timing belt and related parts on a v 6 atq motor and three weeks later there's a pretty good oil leak, where its from or if oil leak can be related to timing belt replacement... leak seems to be in same area as crank pulley but not sure...
View 2 Replies1987 Acura Integra AT with 158k... Water pump broke after 75k miles (in 18yr period)....
I am wondering what else should I have it done:
- thermostat
- oxygen sensor (is there one?)
- vacuum tubes (I hear that these fail due to age)
- anything else?
Are these near where they will be working on? Any other tips?
I have a 2007 Accent with 119K on it.
I wanted to replace the water pump and I was wondering if this can be replaced without removing the timing belt or the lower timing belt cover?
A mechanic has my car and replaced my timing belt and water pump....he said he had it running and then it sputtered out and wont start..i have never had a problem with this car. Just replacing before it went out.. he is missing something.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Audi A4 1.8T with 85,000 miles. Recently my car started overheating, I replaced the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The mechanic also ran tests to make sure there were no issues with the head gasket, those tests came back saying the head gasket was a-ok. Yet, my car is still overheating but only on days when the outside temperature creeps above 90 and I am in stop and go traffic. I have to re-fill the coolant tank about once a week depending on how much I drive. I find no coolant puddles under my car when it is parked, so I do not believe it is leaking. What else could be causing my car to overheat?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2002 Intrepid ES with a 3.5L V-6 with 264,000 miles on it. I have recently had the timing belt and water pump changed. Three weeks later I am driving home and the temperature gauge starts climbing. This is the first time this car has ever overheated. Well, I call my buddy who is a certified mechanic and he tows the car to his shop. I have him check the water pump to make sure it hasn't prematurely failed. He tears the front of the engine down and inspects the pump. He finds nothing wrong with the pump but he discovers the timing belt tensioner has failed and it has caused the engine to jump time, I tell him to go ahead and replace the tensioner.
After he put the engine back together he started it and it ran cool while it was sitting at idle for about 45 minutes. Then he took it for a test drive and it overheated again. He checks the thermostat and finds that it has also failed; he replaces that also, still overheating. New radiator hoses, upper and lower, new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump and it still overheats. He put dye into the coolant to check for a blown head gasket and it tested negative for a blown gasket. The exhaust doesn’t smell of burning coolant or producing white smoke. My mechanic friend and I both have run out of solutions…
My audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
My car just hit 70k miles, I have had no problems with my car since 28,700 miles. I kinda drive it like an old man I know I know I should be ashamed of myself lol. When do you find most 04 .:R's Waterpump/timing chains needing replacement? Just curious if I need to factor this into my budget.
View 7 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesSo I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
I loosened coolant pump belt when my gen II prius had only 200 miles on it. I retensioned it approximately 70% less. Where I could turn water pump pully by hand breaking traction with drive belt using all my strength.
The ice coolant pump just started to leak at the weep hole at only 63000 miles and 5 years old. I was sure the reduced tension would make coolant pump last much longer.
After retentioning it (brand new at 200 miles) I could deflect belt about one inch as opposed to not able to deflect belt at all!
I was on my way to TN for vacation. Car 2008 ES 350 with 49,000 miles had just been to dealer for new battery 1 week before. Driving on I95 and check engine light and 2 other lights came on and smoke came out of hood but temp gage stayed at C even though car was overheating.
Got off hwy and discovered there was no coolant. Bought correct coolant and put it in. Got back on hwy and car started to smoke so pulled off and fortunately car died at end of ramp rather than in the middle of interstate. Had to be towed 50 miles to Lexus dealer who told me that water pump failed and heat destroyed engine. I'm away from home in shock without a car. How a 2008 with only 49,000 miles impeccably maintained could all of a sudden overheat without warning.
I think I made a bad decision. Almost a year ago, I purchased my used Odyssey. I cannot remember if the timing belt had been changed. My check engine light came on, and the mechanic I took it to indicated it was the seal on the gas cap. He proceeded to tell me that I have an oil leak coming from the oil pump and that I should replace it and while I'm in there, I should replace the timing belt. There were a myriad of other things wrong with it, including broken engine mounts (which I can get fixed elsewhere from the man I purchased the car from) and some other things he said I can spread out and are basic maintenance, but I said to go forward with the oil pump and timing belt.
View 6 RepliesI went to the workshop of Toyota in Iraq to repair the car. But do not have engineers repairing Prius cars. And they examine the device to detect faults only... These numbers faults
(P0A0F)Engine failed to start.
(P261C)water pump.
I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.