I have a 13 Golf R with about 8k miles on it. It shifted fine until recently but now it is stiff shifting from 1st to 2nd, and very stiff from 2nd to 3rd when anything over say 4500 rpm.
Downshifting from 4 to 3 or 3 to 2 are almost impossible until the is going very slow.
What could be wrong? Clutch/synchros/linkage/mounts? I am going to call the dealer tomorrow...
I have a 2001 F250 SD V10 and when at a dead stop and with the brakes applied, steering becomes very stiff and almost impossible to turn the wheels. If I let off of the brakes and move a little the steering is just fine. I hate like hell to spend the money on a new power steering pump if it isn't going to fix the problem. Simply put, deap stop, brakes on, wheels don't want to steer. How do I fix it?
View 10 RepliesI recently got my R32 and noticed that its nearly impossible to get into 6th. If you play with it long enough it MAY go in. I looked at the linkage and there's nothing jammed in it. I am thinking the linkage may need an adjustment. Could it have anything to do with the VF trans and dogbone mounts.
View 3 RepliesThe gear shifter in my auto trans 05 Elantra is really stiff when shifting different gears. I was running fine as I went to work and back today with no problems. After I got back from work, the car was off for 30-40 mins. Then I went back and started the car and the gear shifter was stiff but still shiftable. I checked under the car to and fluid leaks but didn't see anything. What may be the issue here?
View 3 Replies2006 mini cooper, 5 speed manual113 thousand miles. got it in 20102 previous owners, never had any previous troubles, learned how to drive stick with the car..
Stiff shifting, takes a lot of effort to shift to second, 3rd, and fourth, and it's very difficult to shift 5th and reverse.--most difficult to shift diagonally--2nd to 3rd, 4th to 5th, 1st to reverse. --whole neutral area very stiffen, once in gear, runs just as smooth as it's always run. No noise when shifting.
Has been going on for a couple of months, turning point around when I had an inexperienced manual driver drive the car--they shifted in a very jerky way. Also, hard winter up in maine, but I was always quick to shovel out the car. The manual couldn't tell us how to check the transmission fluid.
This morning I tried to put my car into reverse and I literally had to force it. It didn't grind or anything, no funny sounds that I have heard, just didn't want to go. It also felt like shifting was kind of "stiff" or tight... The car has 76K on it and I've never replaced the clutch, so it might just be due, but it kind of happened out of the blue. After the first incident of the reverse not cooperating, I didn't have any problems for the rest of the day, but shifting in general still kinda felt off... A coworker said that basically means I'll need a new clutch within a few weeks.
Is it just time for a new clutch? Or is there something I can do? And, so I don't get taken for everything, how to present this problem to my mechanic? I trust them, but I want to be as informed as possible when I go in to talk to them.
I just purchased a 2002 2 door manual Echo. Car has 70K miles. I noticed that there isnt much travel for the clutch pedal (at least compared to my SX4), I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor to get it to engage and it seems pretty stiff shifting between gears. Is this normal for this car? Only my second Toyota owned and the first was an auto trans.
View 14 RepliesI Love this car ... with one notable exception. When I am getting on it a bit above 4500 rpms there is this rattle coming from the passenger side that sounds like a buzz! It only happens near 4500rpm and continues through the range to about 6K.
I am reluctant to bring it in for two reasons
1) I have an APR stage 1
2) I do not like nor trust people pulling $30K apart and poking around
Had problem with downshifting and up shifting quickly on its own and then engine light came on. 24,400 mi. Code P0713 Trans Temp Sensor "A" Circuit Input. They replaced it in a few hours and we will see how it goes. Had also had a problem of acceleration by its self when we first bought it and the gas mileage not being to par. Of course they said they haven't heard of that and they did an update/flash and haven't had that problem again, also had a broke front axle.
View 4 RepliesI've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
View 4 RepliesI've been noticing this noise recently and I'm wondering if it's normal with the DSG. Almost a clicking that I can hear, mostly when downshifting through 1, 2 and 3. Not sure if I simply can't hear it above this due to road noise though. Threw the GoPro on a suction mount and got a bunch of clips from a short drive around the neighborhood.
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This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
View 19 Replies2K 1.8T Golf. Lowered on Koni struts and neuspeed street (red) springs last year. Rear axel bushing done soon after. Replaced front and rear strut mounts and bearings at the time of struts and springs. Rack died on me in the fall so I had it replaced along with newer control arms and upgraded bushings. Aligned right after the rack was installed and ran like an arrow until last weekend. Now it pull to right, more as I speed up. I also noticed that when I turn left, the steering is much stiffer then steering left (full turns and mild turns).
PS fluid is still full. My ball joints are about 3 years old so I'm leaning towards that direction. Especially after this past winter and the never ending pot holes in Detroit. The shop used moogs and were regularly greased as they had zerk fittings. I think I hear some clunking upfront but I'm unclear as my old GHL Muffler weld finally gave out and is having by a hockey lace and it is rattling every time I accelerate or hit a bump. I'm going to jack it up this weekend to do some exhaust work so I'll give it a good once over and shake down what I can.
I know the Touareg has a problem with the rear seat belt locking and making it impossible to raise the rear seat after it's folded down. In fact, that happened to me and I'm going to have it fixed next week. Now, however, the front passenger side seat belt is stuck about 2/3 of the way out. Can't pull out more and won't retract.
View 1 Replies2005 Santa Fe - 3.5L w/ Auto a/c controls (it matters for price on the resistor. boo!)
I find myself having a really hard time sliding the motor back in. It was difficult to pull out before and now it's nearly impossible to put back in.
The Fan wheel measures 5 3/4"
I believe the issue has to do with prefab installation and a very large wheel causing this to be too difficult to push in at an angle.
I see different dimensions for fan wheels and I'm thinking that may be the key.
I already have to replace the blower motor.
Yesterday I took the R out to grab some food on my lunch break. Didn't drive like a lunatic or anything, pulled into T-Bell parking lot and the car didn't want to downshift. Ok Weird. coasted in, parked, and put it in neutral and let out the clutch and the car stalled like it was still in gear. Go to leave and the car doesn't want to go into reverse. Thats when I realized something had gone seriously wrong.
Basically the car is stuck in 3rd gear. I can get the shifter to engage into reverse but the car tries to creep forward like I have the e-brake on. It doesn't go into any other gear but 3rd or 4th, but even when the shifter is in the 4th position its still in 3rd gear. Even when the shifter is in the neutral position its in 3rd gear. I limped the car home. I've looked into it a little bit and I'm leaning toward the 3/4 shift fork being broken. I know this won't be a cheap repair.
I think if it is the shift fork I will be upgrading the the one piece steel versions.
When I downshift while braking, especially in the lower gears, it feels like the brake pedal depresses further. And why does this happen?
Also, do people find you get cleaner downshifts if you have the gas pressed down a little, or do you downshift while braking, or just downshift without either?
Just noticed when driving home tonight that it feels as though there is some kind of slack in the drivetrain when shifting from 5th to 4th under load. I thought it might be the driveshaft is loose but it doesn't seem to happen from 3rd to 2nd or 4th to 3rd.I have always felt like the trans on the car felt weird (hard to change form 1st to 2nd under full load) but this is different...
View 2 RepliesMy '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
View 1 RepliesI have a strange noise issue on the clutch since day 1. When on regular driving, if I'm decelerating on compression and downshifting from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2nd (like slowing down to stop at a red light), when a release the clutch slowly, at the friction point, I am hearing a scratch noise, like 2 metal parts are touching each other.
When totally depressed, no problem, when totally pressed no problem too. Only at the friction point. It's more noticeable when downshifting from 4 to 2.
Is it common to have significantly harder downshifts in S-mode versus regular D? In D-mode the car very much feels like an "auto" through and through. However, when I am in Sport the downshifts are much, much rougher...very "jerky". I'm assuming this has something to do with rev-matching but...even when I'm just crusing in S-mode and coming to a slow stop it jerks between the gears.
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