I get in my car this morning, start it and in my MFI for a brief second or two, it flashes Wheel Lock Malfunction, going to do a vagcom scan after work. But sure enough, my steering column no longer locks.
View 3 RepliesThe problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
Brand new 2011 tiguan SEL with the Kessy keyless entry and ignition system. Today it wouldn't start. Had it over at my brothers house, vsited for a bit and then were heading out to dinner. The steering wheel light on the tach face was flashing red and beeping at me. Foot on the brake, finger on the engine start/stop button and nothing - the red steering wheel icon just flashes and beeps. The frustrating part was since the car is brand new, I had the owners manual on the dining room table at my house, an hour away It was just a few minutes after 6, so I was unable to get anyone in the service dept at the dealer I bought it from. Luckily, the salesperson returned my call (go Francisco!) and grabbed a manual from another Tiguan to tell me what the flashing light means. Basically, it means the car won't start. Very frustrating, the car has 268 miles on it and is only 6 days old. Having it towed back to the dealer for diagnoses and repair. CSB?
View 13 RepliesI've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
To make things short.. took the car in last month for the recalls and now the steering column lock just came up with the steering light flashing. Never happened.. ever until I did the dam recall. Taking it back to the the dealer to see what it is. Maybe a loss connection.
View 2 RepliesMy son's Intrigue had an issue with the steering rack, and it was replaced. I noticed that the steering wheel didn't lock when the problem occurred and even though the rack was replaced, it still isn't locking. If the ignition were in the column, then I would suspect that the cylinder needed to be replaced, but it's in the dash.
View 5 RepliesHaving a problem with flashing steering wheel icon on the dashboard 2014 elantra se.
View 1 RepliesHow to disable or completely take out the steering wheel lock. The part where the gear goes into the disk to lock the steering wheel into place. I heard it was simple and yes I have been looking around but I still can't seem to figure it out.
View 10 RepliesMy car sat for three days in a parking lot while I was away. When came back I noticed a flashing blue light coming from just below the steering wheel and above the brake pedal at the edge of the under part of the dash. When I entered the car, and started it, it went away.
View 19 RepliesI just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
Well, up until a week ago, I had a 2013 GS F sport, and I believe that the steering wheel on that car was able to lock in a perfectly centered position when parked and turning the vehicle off (and then opening the door and moving the wheel slightly so that it clicked).
However, I just picked up a 2015 F sport last week and am finding that its steering wheel will only click into its locked position at about 10-15 degrees to the left or right of center (a little before the 11 or 1 o'clock positions, respectively). It does this, despite the fact that I park the car and open the door while the steering wheel is perfectly centered. I must then turn it those extra degrees before it clicks and it then stays off-center.
Shouldn't the steering wheel on my new car be able to lock on the center position? Or am I just imagining that my 2013 was able to do this? The steering itself seems to be fine, but just want to make sure nothing is wrong here.
Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
I have a 10' F150 and the radio has frozen. It will turn on but only displays the compass, Ext Temp, and time. All three of those items flash every two to three seconds. The controls in the steering wheel and dashboard no longer work (volume, seek, media, voice control...).
Things I've tried that haven't worked:
1. Turning the radio off and on
2. Restarting the truck
3. Pulling any fuses associated with the radio in the sub fuse box not sure of the technical name).
since the cooler weather, i have noticed a short squeal on start after sitting for a while and a squeal when i turn the steering wheel to full lock either direction. question, is the squeal at full lock normal for our cars?
another question, when adjusting the ps belt, do you all use a tool to put tension on the belt till you tighten it or do you just pull back with your hand? I am thinking and hoping the belt just needs a tad more tension on it.
i replaced belts about 2 months ago with gates brand- replaced originals with 30k miles on them. I had squeaking before while running which the belt change fixed.
I just changed the power steering fluid for likely the first time on my 2007 Camry 2.4L with 76k. Put in Maxlife. I noticed when the engine is running that there is a slight... buzzing sound... when the wheel hits the lock in either direction. Everything else is fine and no leaks are present. Im not sure if it has always existed and I only noticed it now because I was listening for irregular sounds, or if it is something new.
Everything else seems fine and the sound only occurs at lock. And it is minimal, but there if you listen for it.
I have an 02 Elantra GT. I was dropping off a friend who knows cars and went to turn around, turned the wheel to full lock to make the turn and heard a squeal. I asked my friend what it was and he said it was the P/S and I just needed to add some P/S fluid. I got some fluid and sure enough when I went to fill up the reservoir it was below to MIN line, not too much below but still below it. I filled up the fluid and didn't hear the problem for the rest of the day but this morning I heard the same noise when I was leaving for work. I figured the fluid had to work its way though but am not sure if there is something else I should check or do.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 2001 Ford Focus 7/17 from a Ford dealer. While my daughter was driving, at a left turn, the engine light came on, the car stalled, and the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. A friend did a computer scan and said the code came back that 2 sensors, the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors, needed replaced. So we had them replaced.
About 4 days later, while driving home from school, on a right turn, the car broke down again on my daughter. She said the symptoms were the same, engine light came on, car stalled, the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. So we had it towed to a local Ford service department. They said the ignition coils needed replaced and the valve cover gasket would eventually need replaced (per the mechanic, this wasn't directly related to the issue but a small leakage was found). So we let the Ford mechanic replace the coils and the valve gasket cover. They ran several tests and put 20 additional miles on the car without failures or issues, scans came up clean.
So while driving to school this morning, on a u-turn, my daughter experienced the issue again....car stalled, engine light came on, steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. After sitting a few minutes, the car started up so she drove it home and hitched a ride from dad to get to school.
I have a 2014 GX 460 without air suspension. what I'm experiencing, is when the steering wheel is steered all the way (left or right), and car is in motion (reverse or forward) I will feel like I am going over a pebble stone road. You can feel it more during morning and cooler days. Otherwise not as much, but it's still there.
View 6 RepliesI own a Honda 2009 Accord EXL with about 25,000 miles. Over the last 5 years a problem has occurred randomly (at least 8 times) and up to last week I was able to over come it. The problem is: when attempting to start the car you find that the steering wheel, shift lever, and ignition key lock are all "locked" up. Nothing can be moved or turned. Thus you can not start or move the car. Up until last week I would jiggle the steering wheel or the shift lever and it would unlock. I took it to the Honda dealer after the first few times and they all but laughed at me . Then last week nothing I did could to get the devices unlocked.
I called the local dealer and he advised having it towed in, which I did. When the tow truck driver arrived he showed me the hidden compartment next to the shift lever and inserted the key. This did unlock the steering wheel sufficiently that we could get the car aligned with the tow truck. And I was able to insert the key and start the engine. But when I attempted to shift the car it acted as if it remained in neutral. In other words the engine roared but no motion no matter which gear I selected. We managed to get the car onto the tow truck and delivered to the dealer. Of course when the dealer looked at it, all was well no problem.
The dealer kept the car and "went over everything" and "found nothing wrong". They said they "have never experienced" this problem before and their home office confirmed that. The Dealer's solution: If you park the car, shift to Park, and turn it off and then turn the steering wheel counterclockwise hard, a click is heard and the whole car is locked up. The dealer showed me that by pushing hard on the brake, forcibly turning the wheel, and at the same time playing with the ignition key with a little luck it all unlocks. (Notice he did not indicate using the hidden compartment trick.)
I find it strange that the dealer has "never ever experienced this issue", yet has a "work around"!! Though I must admit it does work when you purposely "lock" the steering wheel (the random act has not occurred again so far). My question : is there some fault to the electronic (or other) sub systems which should be fixed? I just hate to have my wife out alone and run into the situation again.