i have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
View 5 RepliesI have a Toyota Corolla 2010 LE. When I'm driving, no matter how fast I drive, I feel a vibration sound. When I press brake pedal, it's worse than driving. I recently replaced front rotors and brake pads. I also replaced whole tires a month ago.
View 9 RepliesI have had my new 2010 Prius for 1 1/2 months, and four times it has failed to go into gear. I depress the brake fully, and push the power button. After the ready light comes on, with the brake fully depressed, I put it into drive, and nothing happens (the display does not indicate Drive and the car doesn't move). It also wont go into R or B. If I press gas pedal, there is no revving of the motor. Pressing park makes no difference either. I try repeatedly for less than a minute. What always works is to shut off the car and start again. It happens when the car is cold or warm.
View 19 RepliesI just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
View 3 RepliesI just got my R last week and I noticed that in first gear you can feel and also hear a creaking sound from either the clutch or gas pedal. I've read a few things and it has something to do with the Hinge of the pedal itself and I believe it can be solved with Lithium grease or something like that. Noticed this while in 1st gear?
View 7 RepliesIt happens at 60 mph with foot off the gas.
2013 awd gs350
I can press on the brake pedal when car is off or on and there is a kind of quirky sound made. I can hear a pump sound and then a squeaking or quirky sound. It happens every time I press the pedal when it is stopped, either on or off.
View 2 RepliesOK, so for the last few days it gets harder and harder to get into 1st, the rest are fine. Now it will not engage at all. If it were cable, shouldn't it also have problems in other gears? Even with the car off and clutch out, 2,3,4,5,and 6 all go in and stay just fine. First gear feels as if there is a physical blockage. Thoughts?
View 6 RepliesSo when i try and brake boost, I put my foot on the brake and then harder on the gas but instead of building power my ecu just cuts the boost. I tried it with traction control off aswell.
View 6 RepliesI know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
View 12 RepliesMy 2000 300M has 135k miles on her. With the a/c on when I come up to a traffic light and stop, it feels like i have to press harder then normal to keep the car stopped at the light. the other night at a light I put the car in nuetrel and the engine rpm went from 700 rpm to 1500 and up to 2000 rpm. There is no check engine light at this time. the car does not to this when the a/c is off. I have not scanned the car yet.
View 7 RepliesThree days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
So I went to my garage, and wanted to go warm up the car. Didn't realize it was in gear (since i don't sit in the car but just reach for the clutch and press the start button). Apparently it was in gear and it jerked forward.
Now my DRL's don't turn on when the headlights are off. When the headlights are on the DRL's turn on but is dimmed which is normal.
My R is stock. When I accelerate hard and shift, I can hear like a whine noise when I press the clutch to shift.
Its like something continue to spin fast when I press the clutch at high rpm.
So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
View 8 RepliesThis vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
A couple weeks ago I started experiencing some issues with what seems to be the ABS: when braking to a full stop, a "motor" sound appeared accompanied by vibration on the pedal; however, the ABS indicator light did not light on (although it does light on when I start the car). Several weeks later I began having problems with the transmission. It first appeared when putting the vehicle in reverse but now it happens in almost all gears. Finally, the "service engine soon" light turned on.
I took my car to the mechanic and he said the problem is a solenoid and quote a repair (includes valve body replacement and work). He claimed that the "ABS problem" is related to the transmission issue but as I explained above the "ABS problem" predated the transmission issue. My question is, does this link between ABS and transmission make sense? Also, if I go ahead and replace the transmission valve body can I be confident that I won't have any more issues with the transmission for a while? I am concern about spending more on this car giving its current trade value (I already replaced the front suspension struts, brake pads and rotor discs and new tires).
I have a 2008 elantra. It has 71600 miles on it. New brakes, & tires. 2 tires were changed year and 2 more the previous year. I have been hearing a constant sound and starting to feel a mild vibration on the pedal. First I went to a mechanic and he said I need to change the belts. Got that done, no respite. Next went to another, he said i probably need to get the wheel alignment done as the tires seem 'cupped' on the inside.
Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!
Trying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
I have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?