Just took my r on its first road trip. About 1k miles straight. Reached the destination and I noticed smoke coming from the drivers side wheel well. Popped the hood and seems to have com from the rear of the engine. It dissipated fast. 15k on the odometer.
View 13 RepliesGot off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
View 9 RepliesI have noticed only recently a strange "ping" sound that is coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound is exactly what two pieces of rebar sound like hitting together. The car only makes the sound once while slowing down at around 3mph and once again while accelerating at the same speed. The should can not be heard under heavy breaking however. I have jacked the car up and pushed on the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and 3 and 9 oclock to see if it was a bad wheel bearing and it was not. It is a 2010 Subaru STI with 45000 miles. I am wondering what this could be.
View 5 RepliesWhen I drove out of my office last night I noticed what sounded like a loud squeaking sound. It was pretty pronounced for a while and then it faded to where I could not hear it unless the windows were down.
It is still there, and it is pronounced when driving by an object (like another car) to echo. It can't be a nail or rock because it will get louder at random times. It only happens when the R is in motion.
I have my 90 day courtesy check on Saturday and requested a ride along... what I can ask them to look for? I am thinking brakes, CV Boot and Bearing?
I bought my R from Carmax about a month ago with about 26K miles on it (and, needless to say, I am in love with the car). However, after a week or two of driving, I noticed a squeaking/rattling sound coming from the front driver's side wheel well area when I let off the brake. It is loud enough for me to hear it with the windows rolled up, and it continues for several seconds at least after I let off the brake (maybe longer, but I can't hear it over the exhaust).
The rattle sort of sounds like it may have something to do with the turning of the wheel, so I thought it might be related to caliper vibration or something (not that I really have any clue. At all.). Anyhow, I took my R to Carmax to have them look at it because it is still under the 30 day warranty, and I figured I would start there before taking it to the local VW dealership. I got a call a few minutes ago from the service guy, who said the following:
"Our technician took a look at your car and determined that the sound is coming from your suspension. However, it is a normal sound and there isn't anything that needs to be fixed."
I argued with him and said that the noise may or may not be immediately harmful to my car, but it is certainly not NORMAL, and something needs to be tightened, lubricated, or replaced. He said he would have his tech look at it again.
In the last few months my car has been making this crazy medium-weight rattle sometimes, meaning it doesn't sound like something really light doing it and it doesn't sound like something heavy doing it either. Its "history" went like this:
Noticed this sound that really seemed to be coming from the driver-side front, in the wheel well area, checked it out. Nothing obvious. Had the front of the car on ramps a couple of times, poking, prodding, grabbing/shaking things. All is tight. Then had it on stands; same routine, same results. It got a bit worse over time, though it doesn't ALWAYS do it! Sometimes it's quiet forever (on 90-minute drive last week, nothing). This evening, out for 20 minutes, lotsa racket. So it comes and goes. Nothing under the hood seems amiss, either.
At first it seemed to only be present when moving, like something rubbing or dragging on a tire. Nope. Then it seemed to be related to engine speed, like some under-hood component checking out and starting to fuss. That seems not to be the case anymore, either. Now, I've been able to discern that it's something come loose and VIBRATING (I'm pretty sure -- it just sounds like that), but I don't know what yet. I now hear it at idle, sitting at a light (sometimes) and it's definitely worse on rougher pavement than on smoother pavement.
A while back I realized that it must not be coming from outside and under the car after all, because putting the window/s down results in not being able to hear it at all, rather than being able to hear it better. This is true even at 5 mph, rolling along on a quiet street entirely for diagnostic purposes.
Earlier this evening (during the 20-minute out n' about), I note that it's not coming from the driver side anymore; it's more like the whole front of the car. Really seems to be under the dash. When I first figured out that it's NOT outside/underneath, I took off the panel under that side (three Torx screws) and poked around. Didn't find anything obviously loose, etc. I've ruled out the glovebox, its door, and the center console, by holding on to each while rolling. The sound is not quite in the correct spot to be from any of these, either.
Just installed raxle on my driver side. All clicking sounds are fixed but I noticed if I take right turns sometimes you can hear a constant clunking sound coming from the driver side wheel. It doesn't happen all the time, you kinda have to turn and hit a certain angle of the steering wheel. Also, only happens when driving low, if I raise the car just a little bit its gone. Never had issues with my oem axle binding so Im not sure how exactly does the binding sound?
View 24 RepliesI've been getting it when reversing and it seems to be coming from the rear passenger side wheel. To me it sounds like two metals tapping. I feel like it might be the spring, but I just want a second opinion.
View 3 RepliesI have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
I've had this weird noise coming from the driver side front (i'm guessing inside the engine bay) for the past month now. It started ever since hitting a bad pothole that wasn't avoidable and couldn't see very well during one of the nasty winter storms we got here in PA. Ever since the steering has felt off, like just not all there anymore. Over the smallest of bumps it makes this noise. Extremely aggravating for me since I try to take great care of the car and keep everything tight and new feeling. Since I don't know how to work on newer cars (only mk3 and lower) I have no clue what to do to check... I've had it at the dealership a few times to report the noise, 2 of the times they just took it for a drive around the area and back and each time the tech said he didn't hear a noise (of course).
Roughly 15k miles on the car currently
Noise started around 12-13k
Also recently noticed that only coming from the same side, the shock over big bumps makes squishy noises, as if it were blown or something...
People have suggested that it could be the sway bar, tie rods, end links, bushings, anything. I personally think it's the strut tower bushing or bearing, but again, I'm not much of a newer car mechanic.
Pics of car ...
Well this makes the 3rd time I am going to have to take my car into the dealer because of the right rear brakes. I had a guy pull up to me yesterday and tell me that I had smoke coming out of my right rear wheel, I pulled over nd the rotor had a slight blue glow to it and the caliper was smoking. This is starting to get old, I wonder when the lemon law kicks in on something like this?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Corolla. It's out of warranty. And it has about 40k Miles.
Today, while driving home, I smelled smoke/burning and it's definitely coming from the control panel on the driver side (where are the locks and window buttons are). There was smoking coming out of that control panel.
To me, this sounds like something a dealership should really fix since those control panels are usually so unique to the maker and model? But I could be wrong, since I'm terrible with cars.
Is there a chance a recall would cover this? I never got a letter, but I found this on the internet: [URL] ....
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
I own a 03 mk4 jetta 2.0 I revved her up to 5000 rpm coming onto traffic. Drove about a mile or so when I noticed the temp going up. Pulled over and checked all my fluid levels and looked under for any leaks. Got back in the car turned it on and saw temp was normal again. I drove not even a quarter of a mile when I saw smoke coming out the rear of the car. Let the gas pedal go and when I did that the car started downshifting. Its an automatic. When it got down to the last gear the battery, check engine light, and epc light came on and car cut off. Cruised until I could stop somewhere safe on neutral. When I completely stopped I tried cranking but no crank. When I turn the key, lights and everything is good. Just no crank.
View 1 RepliesI just noticed this, this weekend, sitting in GTI and Golf. I checked carefully, and indeed it feels like I'm not sitting directly in line with the steering column/wheel. It's not a huge issue, but just a little strange, that they wouldn't match them up straight?
View 24 RepliesSo I just got my 04.5 GLI chipped with GIAC 93 octane program two days ago. Obviously I've been driving it reasonably hard because I'm pumped on the chip. I noticed today as I sat at a light a very small bit of white smoke billowed out from the driver's side of the engine (looked like it was pretty far to the side). It stopped for a second and then a little bit more came out. I pulled over as soon as the light turned green and looked around with a flashlight to see if I could spot any more smoke, but couldn't.
The car has 120,000 KMs, catless dp, and an aftermarket exhaust. It was chipped in 2011, but went into limp mode, the owner then traded it in and I got it in limp mode. (long story short they reflashed and replaced several parts and got it back to 10psi, and I then rechipped 2 days ago). So the car hasn't seen too much chipped use I'm assuming. The boost holds strong at about 17lbs (unless it's low rpms in 5th or 6th, and it kinda bounces around until higher rpms and then holds steady).
I just started hearing a ticking sound in my drivers side rear wheel. It sounds like a pebble in the tire at low speeds and as you get faster it makes loud road noise in the car, almost like a whoosh whoosh sound. Took it to a local auto shop and they said it was a stuck brake caliper and possible wheel bearing. After driving I felt each rotor and that one was considerable hotter then the others. Everything else about the car is fine, drives well with no vibrations and brakes well. Jacked the wheel up to see if the wheel was loose from a bad bearing, but it was not loose. The shop, however, can not locate a caliper saying it was on national backorder. Does this sound like a bad caliper and is it normally hard to find parts? I'm trying to avoid going to a dealer because of price, but that maybe may only option. The car has 90,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesMy car (2003 Honda CR-V, 54000 mile) started to make "sssss" sound from the rear-driver side wheel while driving, but not so severe at the moment. I checked the wheel and found that the pad was worn out: metal to disk. The other three pads are a little bit (2-3mm) left over. I visited some franchise mechanic shop and was told that the pads, rotors, and calipers need to be replaced.
But I'm wondering about the caliper replacement. Do you think that my car makes "ssss" sound when brakes not being applied, which possibly means a stuck piston, so the calipers also need to be replaced? I got brake fluid flushed every 3 years, for your information. I think that some air in the side caused by poor recent bleeding might cause the symptom or it might be a normal situation, which means the caliper itself is fine.
My 1988 Standard 2WD Toyota pickup truck has intermittent scraping in rear driver side wheel. It only occurs after slowing down from higher speeds and making a turn. It seems to happen IN the turn. The scraping pulses and is in time with the speed of the truck. Once it starts scraping, I stop for a minute, then it goes away.
This makes me think it is my rear brake drum, overheating and locking up. I've jacked up, in neutral, with handbrake OFF and both rear wheels have extreme resistance when I turn them by hand. I also jacked the front to compare the resistance of the front wheels, and there is nearly none. Not sure if this is normal since it is RWD.
Have a 2000 Forester with 114K. Had to replace driver's rear wheel bearing at 100k & again at 110k; when replacement bearing started to fail, ABS light came on because wheel was not spinning true! Replaced passenger's rear wheel bearing at 105k (this one is getting noisy now).
Hard to believe I got 2 "bum' bearings! Not a difficult repair, but this will be 4 bearings in less than 2 years. The car's driven on paved roads & with little load, so it's not from harsh road conditions or heavy loads.
After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
View 13 Replies