So about 200 miles into brake in and I backed up my steep driveway, a feat previously easy with the stock clutch. Backed up with my new setup (SB OFE disc) and all I could smell was burning clutch. Aside from this I have been strictly adhering to clutch break in best practices. The clutch will be ok still in the long run, or did I potentially cause permanent damage?
View 5 RepliesOK, so I got stuck in some decent snow in my buddy's yard. I know I did a number on my clutch (was rocking back in forth etc.)
Clutch smell was awful that night (had to crack my windows overnight).
The clutch feels fine and still grabs in the same spot, also I was messing around with some guy today on the road and was driving pretty hard and it started to smell really bad again.
Should I just take it easy for a while? Or can I bleed the clutch or anything like that?
I have right around 2k miles on my '13 base model 6MT. I've noticed recently that after faster highway driving (75-80mph sustained for 10-25 min, up to 95 passing occasionally), I can smell something when I get out that reminds me an awful lot of the clutch burning up in my old 350 as I hauled a way-too-heavy trailer. Drivetrain is still very responsive, no noticeable slippage. Never shifted out of 6th when passing at speeds above. Just paranoid? Something I should look into?
View 3 RepliesAfter battling the general nitwit public earlier. I was on my way home and as I neared my house, a party bus was blocking the road. Well, I got angry, shifted to reverse, revved the engine while letting out the clutch to back up and take a different route. Then this horrible burning electric/plastic smell inundated the inside of my R. I knew I rode that clutch while backing up. My question is did I do noticeable damage my clutch, or is it one of those: it'll be fine just don't do it again thing?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
I've got a 2000 Subaru outback with 170k miles on it. I recently pulled a code for a bad line pressure solenoid and replaced it. About 500 miles later the oil temp sensor light started flashing so I turned the car off and when I turned the car back on it wasn't flashing and hasn't come on since. No CEL. I'm now about 2k miles after changing the line pressure solenoid and now whenever I drive over 10 or so miles my car smells like the clutch is burning. He idle is a little rough, i.e. it vibrates a little more than usual and the car is a little slow to respond when I gas it.
View 19 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2001 Toyota Solara. I've been driving it, infrequently, for about 3 years, and while it's an older car, I never had any problems engaging the clutch. My girlfriend also did not have any issues with the car. I don't have a lot of experience with manual transmissions.
Recently, we let our friend use it for the day. I dropped the car off at his place and did not notice anything wrong with it. The next day, I got a call from my friend who said that the car was emitting a weird smell and that he was having a hard time engaging the clutch. By the end of the day, he could no longer engage the clutch and had to leave it on the side of the road.
We got it towed to a garage, and when they looked at it, they said the clutch was totally burned out. My friend insists that he has plenty of experience driving with a manual transmission and that there must have been a problem with the clutch before we gave him the car. Is this possible? It seems unlikely to me, as neither my girlfriend nor I had any problems with the car. It's not like we were struggling to engage the clutch- it was fine when I dropped it off, and then the next day it's totally burned out.
Ok, so my brake pads are actually not smelling like "victory" right now. what these symptoms might mean?
Background: 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse. I think this might have all started when I hit the brakes pretty hard one day, hard enough to normally skid a car but the car has ABS, so it did not skid. Didn't notice these signs immediately after, but they have happening for weeks now and here they are:
Front driver's side tire bumps, sounds like a jack hammer but slower. Can get bad enough where I feel the steering wheel jarring so I have to hold on with both hands (I don't have power steering.) At first I suspected bad tire maybe, but the tire is fine.
First few times it did that, it smelled like burned brake pads. Only saw this once at night but the rotor got so hot that when I pulled over to look, it was glowing orange. It do longer smells like brake pads, but it still shakes.
The shaking and hammering stops and starts form one day to the next. I drive on the highway, then maybe 20 minutes I have to pull over and drive on the road. If I let it rest an hour, it might go away.
It happens randomly at different speeds. One day it does it at highway speeds, the next day, 40 and some other day at 20mph. I jacked up the car and got both front tires off the ground. Then I started the car and put it drive:
a.) the left side would not rotate!
b.) gave it gas, the tranny shifted gears, got up all the way to 35 "mph" on the speedometer, and still the left tire would not rotate.
The tire can rotate with enough applied force using a crow bar. Nothing terribly strong...18" bar, I would say 20lbs torque. By the way the 30 amp? ABS fuse in the hood is not there, never has been. I lowered the car and it drove. But it still acts up from time to time.
edit: it doesn't shake so much now as it does hammer. But I really don't feel the car tire hammering or bumping, I can hear it. Metal to metal, like a little gremlin is hammering the inside of the hood or something.
I have a 2000 Outback, 80K, and I've been having brake issues. The first thing I noticed was a burning brake smell. I pulled over and found that my two front wheels were very hot. I pumped the brakes a few times and let them cool down and drove on. Pulled over in a bit to check them and they were fine. Took the car to the dealer who said, "We can't really find anything wrong with the fronts, but the backs are sticking a bit and we fixed that." So, off I went. Of course, it happened again. Left front seemed the hottest, but this time I noticed that the rear wheels were warm as well. Took it in again. Again, "We don't know." "Could it be the calipers or the lines or the ABS chip," I asked? "Well, yeah, maybe the front calipers." So they replaced the front calipers.
Picked it up and noticed two things of interest on the print out: "Rear brakes hanging up," and the front pads are a 8mm and the rear at 3mm! Hm... Seemed fishy to me. I had all the pads replaced a year and half ago. The last set lasted 75K, so this is odd, as is the discrepancy between back and front. I had the dealer pull the service record. In May the rear were at 5mm. Two weeks ago they were at 3.5mm. Yesterday they were a 3mm. I asked, "What would cause that?" They said, "Well, probably whoever did your brake job didn't clean the brakes up well so they are getting stuck and wearing down." I took the car and drove 60 miles, mostly on the highway. Fronts wheels were cool. Rear wheels were warm to hot.
95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
View 6 RepliesAs the title says.... it slipped on a first gear pull and then another time on the highway on the on ramp in high RPM in second....
View 4 RepliesThe wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
View 6 RepliesOn the way into work today, I smelled a burning smell in my cabin. Got to work and opened the hood and it's very clearly something burning in the engine bay.
Coolant levels are good (even opened the coolant reservoir and it filled back up a bit, so it doesn't seem there's a coolant leak there), checked the dipstick and oil level seems good. MK6 GTI, just hit 21.5k miles. The only things I can think of are:
-Haven't replaced the cabin filter
-Intake may need to be cleaned? It's been on for about 10-12k and hasn't been cleaned yet.
Might also be just because my senses are heightened because of this, but the engine sounds louder than normal, specifically the lifters sound louder, but might just me being paranoid now. Been hearing about the headgasket possible 2.0 recall that's been bouncing around, so could it be that?
I want to take this to my car guy, but he's about 1.5-2 hours away, so I'm iffy on driving it that far.
So, last Saturday I took my car into New German Performance and had my ECU flashed to Stage 1. I used it on Saturday and Sunday in 93 mode, but switched back to stock for my commute during the week.
Starting on Tuesday this week, I've noticed that I constantly smell smoke at work and while at home. All of my clothes are smoky. Well, I narrowed it down to my car. When I got home today, I had the gf smell the inside of my car and it indeed smells like smoke and/or exhaust. What could have happened here?
The car has a hair under 33k on the clock and the last time the oil was checked (last Thursday morning I believe) the level was right on max. Of course, I haven't checked it since the tune (I will once the car cools down tonight), but I'm beginning to worry a little here.
2000 Golf Gl AEG 2.0
My car smells of fuel in the exhaust and when checking the oil it is mixed. I have a cel and it says the o2 sensor is bad, not sure if a bad o2 would be causing all of this or not. The air filter is clean and I have done a few oil changes also. The oil is low also after so many miles but cannot seem to see any leaks.
Car also has over 200,000 miles. Is it necessary to change the gear oil in the vehicle?
Just in the last couple days, after driving for a while, I noticed a strong burning smell immediately as every time I opened my door! It doesn't feel like it's from the engine bay, but more likely from underneath of the car (I could smell it near the rear wheel arch). The smell starts very noticeable and diminishes quickly! BTW, it's a 2015 GTI DSG, 2-month-old, 2700 miles, pure stock. I got a bit concern on this since it never happened before.
View 14 RepliesTook about a 200 mile trip this weekend, stopped at a rest area about halfway through and smelled burnt carbon, smelled like a burnt clutch almost. It was very strong and there was smoke coming from the engine. It wasn't a lot but it was cause for concern. I checked the oil, last oil change about 1500 miles ago but no problems there, temp gauge was in the middle. Let the car sit for a 10 mins or so and then headed of again. When I got home that night, couldn't smell it and there was no smoke. Car has 42K ... Also, I got an airbag fault light about 30 mins from my house.
View 8 RepliesSo yesterday I was on my way home from work, and I had smelled a little burning and then I saw smoke from the steering column???? i pulled over and it had stopped no lights came up? the car is fine now..? I don't know whats going on?
View 4 RepliesMy engine bay smells of burning oil after driving for a while. I have cleaned up the engine in order to find the leak. There is some gunky residue on the belt side of the engine but that wouldn't cause the smell.
Crawling under the car I found that there appears to be a leak between the (what I think is) the aluminum intake side of the turbo and the cast iron center. You can see it in the videos below:
[URL] .....
This is the only leak near the exhaust that I can find. Does this mean that the seals inside my turbo are toast and I will need to either rebuild or replace it? What is the best course of action? Rebuild? New OEM Turbo?