Just hit a fantastic Minnesota pot hole. Have a slight shimmy now at higher speeds, feels like its from the rear. Don't see any obvious dents in the rim, what else could I have bent back there? I'm wondering if this is psychosomatic and our roads just suck right now or if I really damaged something.
View 6 RepliesWell I've been noticing that when I'm slowing down from higher speeds (50 mph or so) my steering wheel is shimmying a bit. Also I just started to hear my front passenger brake squeal a little. Well when I went to visually check the brakes, the pads seem VERY thick! Is it normal for them to start to go bad even with such thick pads? They are like 1cm thick. Also the rotors did seem used for sure, maybe 1mm worn down or so from the outer lip which is raised (I hope you understand what I mean), but they weren't scoured or anything. I suppose they could still be warped? I figured with such big brakes I wouldn't run into that problem. The car has 70k on it and the pads have been replaced once and rotors turned at 25k by the previous owner.
View 6 RepliesOk so the brakes are new and for some reason at higher speeds, i feel the pedal vibrate as if its a bad rotor....gonna grease the pins and pads this weekend to see if theres a diff. But what gets me is that it Squeals as if the pads are shot as well in the front.
The title problem is that when i brake its smooth ish until 10 MPH where then it feels like the pedal goes to MUSH and i hear an ERRRRR sound as the car comes to a stop. it almost sounds like ABS/ESP while im sliding to a stop in the snow.... Expect there's no snow.
I don't have a high tech phone to record the noise. It never used to make this sound and i feel there is an actual problem.
I am gonna try flushing the brake system with new fluid, take the front brakes off and re grease everything. yesterday seemed to be the day my dash decides to light up like a Christmas tree...
Getting some lateral movement when on straightaways at higher speeds, it's minimal but feels like the whole car is swaying a little side to side. The suspension feels great otherwise and cornering is accurate. My current setup is:
- Bilstein Sport Shocks and Struts
- Neuspeed Rear Sway Bar
- H&R Front Sway Bar
- Stock on the rest
I think this started when I added the front sway bar but am not sure, had the rear on long before adding it. Would upgraded sway bar end links work or make this more noticeable? Thought about trying to swap the stock front sway bar back in but that one is kind of difficult to get to. How to remedy this?
So I just got my first alignment done on my gli since I lowered it. Before I got the alignment it had a shake in the steering wheel in acceleration mainly but more often at higher speeds. I was hoping that it would ride like butter but it's still shaking. The alignment was pretty bad before I took it to the shop today but what could the shake be coming from now? BTW I installed Ecs tuning rear wheel centering plates last night and I'm about to install their adjustable sway bar end links because I noticed last week that the sway bar had been rubbing the axle some.
View 14 RepliesHaving issues with passenger side door making noise on the highway at higher speeds or over bumps? I've recently begun to notice a slight rattle coming from the passenger side door when at highway speeds which becomes more noticeable and annoying when driving over a bump or less smooth roadways. I just reached 1500 miles. I have looked around on the forum and found some issues that various GTI owners experienced most dated from last year (talked with a MK6 GTI owner today at work who mentioned there was a recall not too long ago on this issue?), but I feel like that would have been since fixed with the R if the recall was last year.
View 9 RepliesWheel Balance 18" Wheels with there T-Reg? I have a slight shimmy @ around 68-75. Had it balanced twice with no luck. The dealer doesn't have a good Hunter Road Force Machine? Other than that love the T-Reg.
View 1 RepliesI've been hearing a slight scrapping noise almost every time I drive off at low speeds. It definitely is a metal to metal sound but only is heard once or twice and then its gone. The dealership have checked suspension, wheel bearings, etc. and they say everything looks good and is tight. I dont think its anything steering cuz it happens when driving straight and nothing else feels out of the norm. I just had my 30k service done and I also had them do an alignment (found my front toe and rear camber needed adjustment) and the noise is still there.
View 1 RepliesWhen traveling over bridges that have a ribbed steel ramp over the draw portion of the bridge, my 2012 Gen III does a slight shimmy.
View 3 RepliesHaving trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....
View 19 RepliesI have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
Have an '03 Subaru Outback Ltd. 184k miles. Great car all in all. Has been burning 3-4 qts oil between changes every 3-4k miles. Stated idling rough after warms up [intermittently], slight 'shimmy' at stoplights. Check engine light on always, flashes at times when warms up but even then doesn't flash all the time. Took it to dealer for upcoming smog check, have a bad oxygen censor and possibly bad catalytic converter, but also said low compression no.2 cylinder--which is what I'm wondering about.
Without further diagnostics they're talking about perhaps new pistons, and/or valve job and/or short block rebuild. My questions are 1-is there any more diagnostics possible to narrow it down without pulling it apart? and 2-is it worth a rebuild or should I sell? Great car otherwise, they're talking 3-5k range for repairs, blue book on the car is 4-6k rough estimate? Been a great car all in all, aside from clutch replacement this is the first major repair issue.
I have a 2008 ford f150 4.7 liter 4x2 & the problem I am having is when coming to a stop when I accelerate there is a slight shimmy in back end or could be described as a vibration for just a few seconds and then you don't feel it anymore until you come to a stop & restart. Once you have pulled off it will not do it anymore out on road. I checked fluid & it is not low in back end. Transmission shifts good so what could cause this.
View 2 RepliesI got my Egg on 8/5/03. I have almost 10,000 miles on it, and other than an assorted rattle and a persistent shimmy in the wheel at certain speeds, despite rebalancing and rotation at 7,000 miles, I love it. It's quick, handles very well, and rides great. It's a topic of conversation everywhere, and while this is a matter of opinion and as I value mine I'll give it to y'all, it is one of the best looking SUVs made.
View 10 Replies2010 FJ Cruiser has an intermittent shimmy that you can feel in the steering wheel at highway speeds. Noticed it not long after new tires. Go around a long curve and it starts, then stays until you go around another curve and then stops. It is as if the wheels have to align a certain way for some harmonic effect. I had the tires rebalanced and rotated. My mechanic said they balanced up very well. Shimmy is better but not gone. Wierdest thing is that when it happens, if I keep my foot on the gas and gently press the brake the shimmy stops and the returns as soon as I let up on the brake. When I asked my mechanic if it could be 2 slightly warped rotors he said the shimmy would be worse braking not better.
View 4 RepliesMy '01 Aztek has a very odd shimmy. It only happens when turning right, at highway speeds, and when accelerating. Not when turning left, and not while just 'coasting'. Only when accelerating.
The mechanic replaced a tie rod end, and that seemed to fix things for a few hundred miles. But now it's back and is happening at lower speeds.
99 Pontiac Montana.... I feel a shimmy in my steering wheel at all speeds....
View 1 RepliesMy wife just purchased an 04 w/27k miles in superb condition two months ago. This is a California car that had no mountain or winter weather service.
We live in Colorado & do a lot of mountain driving. At speeds above 65mph going down hill the steering wheel slightly vibrates or shimmies under heavy braking. The car is always heavily loaded.
Original brakes w/ well over 50% lining. I have not put a dial indicator on the disc surfaces.
CV joint boots are tight & no grease leakage.
Tires are wearing perfectly, so I do not think it is an alignment issue.
A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
I've noticed that at speeds of 60+ (especially 65+), the Prius control doesn't seem "tight." I wouldn't go as far as saying it has a "shimmy" but it's harder to keep straight on the highway. I absolutely adore my Prius but this bothers me. I had the alignment checked and it's perfect. I know all small cars tend to be less grounded than, say, an SUV, but I'm still curious if this is normal before I take it into the dealer.
View 15 RepliesSo I have been noticing a shimmy/bouncing at highway speeds (between 60-80mph) for a couple of months. It started right after I had a local indy tire shop swap my sliver stock wheels for the chrome version of the same wheel I picked up locally.
Funny thing is I did my front brakes last Sunday and after putting the tires back on, the ride felt smoother at highway speeds. I figured perhaps the indy shop didn't torque the wheels properly (which I'm sure they didn't as they didn't ask me the torque spec and didn't look it up, and used an impact gun to tighten bolts). I torqued my front wheels to 103lb by hand after doing front brakes.
This Thursday, I did my rear brakes and torqued the rears to 103lb. On the highway the shaking/bouncing is back and dare I say more noticeable.
Could it be that I did something incorrect when installing the rear wheels? The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 with about 15k miles on them. Look to be wearing evenly.
I have an appt. on Monday to have the tires balanced at Discount Tire. I asked about their machine and he said it's a Hunter which I take to me Hunter Road Force balancing machine. Is there anything particular that I should ask or know prior to going in?