Golf VI R :: Slight Gritty Feel Or Like Rubbing Against Sandpaper When Lift Up The Clutch
Aug 29, 2015
I have a Mk VII R manual transmission with only 500 miles on it, but I'm having an issue that I think some of you may have experienced. My clutch is perfectly smooth when idling or in neutral, but there is a slight "gritty" feel or like rubbing against sandpaper when I lift up the clutch, mostly in 1st or 2nd gear and just when I give it throttle and the car starts moving or when the clutch engages. I thought maybe I was crazy but I did a search and found multiple people with this same issue on the MK VI R's.
[URL] ....
And this one: [URL] ....
I've got 500 miles now, so I'm going to wait until 1000 to bring it to the dealer.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I have had some weird feelings in my clutch after I launch my R hard, it feels like the clutch is tighter and has a different feel to it than with normal driving. car is stock for the most point and fairly new to me so I am not sure if anything has been replaced clutch wise. What the problem might be?
View 3 Replies
I've just about had it with this car:
- Car always had a "mushy" clutch feel. Not proper pushback against your foot feel.
- brought in several times under warranty, all was fine (documented by several dealers) from Jun- November 2015.
- Clutch then goes out at 52k, slipping in high gears. Dealer noted the pressure plate was blackened/burnt. June 2016
- I replace clutch at dealer, $1700 later. Pressure plate, slave cylinder, clutch disc, resurfaced flywheel. Pedal feel is awesome for about a month. Pedal "mush" comes back 1000 miles later. July 2016
- Take it in under the 12k warranty again, and they replace clutch master cylinder. It's about 60% better, but pedal will lose pressure occasionally and at higher altitudes (over 4000 feet) July 2016
What else haven't I replaced? And would a failed clutch master cylinder cause premature clutch wear if not replaced for months?
View 9 Replies
If the windows are closed you can hear it much better. The best way I can hear it is when I am stopped and i step on the gas just enough to get the rpms up. Another way to hear it is when I am at a red light on a hill and I am using the clutch. It's a rubbing sound but not as fast as the engine if that makes sense. Would that be the clutch? It doesn't matter whether the clutch is in or not, you can do it in neutral as well. Vw seems to think its the clutch but i have no slipping or anything. 65K miles no engine mods except intake.
View 2 Replies
What are the largest size tires that will fit to give my truck a tougher look without rubbing or causing any other issues? Again I have a 2008 FX4 SuperCrew.
View 14 Replies
Don't get me wrong this car wasn't a speed demon anyways, but now it seems like it takes a little more throttle to get going. It could be bad gas or something, I'm not sure. Ive only had it 2 months. Would it hurt to put a fuel treatment through it? Slight sluggish feel then what you were use to when you bought it? 2800 Miles on my C2...
View 2 Replies
When pulling away casually in 1st from a stop, I hear a slight chatter noise. Had this since before the tune (stage 1). Almost like the sound a diesel makes at idle but only lasts a second or two. To the best of my knowledge it is an OEM clutch. Had 9k miles when I bought it, now has 25k.
View 24 Replies
My wife and I purchased our 2005 Chrysler 300 Limited in May 2004.Our 300 has over 117,00 miles as of May 2011. It has been a rather dependable automobile.I have enjoyed it almost as much as my HD. We have performed maintenance as close to the schedule as possible.
I failed to drive the car as often as our second car is an used 2002 S430 which had been my primary auto until about two months. My niece and nephew reported to my wife that the car was not "doing something right". No one could really explain, so I had drove the vehicle myself to determine the issue. The transmission had the feel that it was being "slammed" into the next gear without any clutch. Once the car was warmed up, it appeared that when it shifted at 38-40 mph or 48-50 mph, the car shudders. It almost resembles the feeling you get when you run a car across those strips in the road.
I took the car to the dealership where I have had it serviced locally. They replaced a module which had Technical Service Bulletin from Chrysler for noted similar problems. The first module replaced did not resolve the problem. I took it back and they tried again with the end result being same as before I took the 300 into the shop, transmission appeared to shudder when shifting at the midrange gears.
The dealership as another option recommended that the transmission be replaced. I was not confident with their assessment as I had the distinct feeling they were not clear on the real issue.
I took the car to another service shop which I had more confidence in their work. I asked that they check the car for the problem with the transmission as I wanted their assessment. At this point, I had pretty much decided that I would get rid of the car, but did not want to give anybody else the troubled vehicle nor did I want to have to rush to decide on an automobile to purchase.
The second shop recommended the transmission be replaced, as well several other items be checked as there appeared to be oil leaks. The CAM plugs had been replaced as part of the service the dealer performed though the engine area had not been cleaned of the previous oil. That news was alarming, as the price estimate for a replacement engine was around 6500-7000 smackeroos, way outside of my comfort for repair on the car.
I was able to locate a used transmission with only 86k on it through a very gratuitous turn of fate. I digress, however, as the source for the used transmission was available only to licensed shops.
Two shops had referenced a transmission repair shop as one of the best in our small county. I left the car with the transmission shop for their testing, and it came back with their recommendation that the problem existed in either the coil or spark or an area related there.
I again took the car to the second shop and asked that they check the engine thoroughly for any issues with the spark plugs, wires or similarly related issues. The shop reported that the motor compression was at 190 across all six cylinder and the spark plugs and wires were new and there were no issues with the coils.
I am most happy that the engine is in excellent condition. I have planned to take the car back to the tranny shop as I reported the findings to him of the other shop. I am concerned about the transmission, though I am driving it about 60 miles round trip to work about 2-3 days each week. It still convulses at the mid-range shifting but otherwise runs pretty good after that. The car body is in very good shape as is the interior.
View 2 Replies
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
View 5 Replies
I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
View 14 Replies
I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 Replies
I have been having issues with the tires rubbing even on a slight dip on the freeway specially when running at about 70 mph . I have a 20x9 front offset 32 tires 245/35/20 and 20x10 rear offset 35 tires 275/30/20. I also installed tanabe nf210 springs. Is it bec of the offset? What can I do to get rid of it?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. There is a slight rubbing noise when I make wide turns and I suspect it is the wheel bearings. How much should it cost to replace these, and how thin is the ice I am skating on if I put it off?
View 4 Replies
I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
View 2 Replies
Here's the deal:
1. My 2002 SC430 with 23,000 miles on it is making a low rubbing noise when slowing down, with a slight vibration, not severe enough, but it is annoying and frankly surprising on this car. The dealer tells me it's because the brakes have "glaze" on them, and short of a new brake job, you can jam on the brakes to clear or loosen some of this and reduce the noise. ( I live in the desert so I'm sure I could find a deserted stretch or road for this craziness...) The dealer reports the brakes have 70 - 80 percent life on them and I don't need a brake job.
2. Power steering. I thought this particular car was just hard to steer, but even the tech at the dealer commented it's like I have no power steering. I test drove two other cars, and the steering is markedly lighter on the other two SC430's I drove. (2002 and 2005) Dealer can't seem to find an explanation, but I have to drive this car with two hands around town... I know this is not the way this car was intended to feel.
I don't believe the car changed that much from the 2002 model so as to affect the steering. BTW, I'm using stock tires, not run flat, 4 months old. And the steering is stiff at idle anyway, regardless of tires. The first SC I drove, which sealed the decision to buy one, was so quiet I didn't know the engine was running, easy to steer, and smooth.
View 6 Replies
I have an 08 Toyota Sienna and yesterday I started to notice a very slight grinding or rubbing sound when I apply the brakes coming from the passenger side front wheel. I can only hear the grinding or rubbing sound when I am going very slowly (like the last 20 feet when approaching a stop sign). The sound pulses slightly like two surfaces that are not parallel are rubbing. There is no pulsation or wobble felt in the brake pedal. I'm thinking it's time to get the rotors turned, but it could also be the brake pads.
View 5 Replies
My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
View 7 Replies
I ask this because when on the hwy (60-70mph) you can feel some vibration in your hands. I can let the steering wheel go and it won't move a bit but when hands placed on it you can definitely feel the road, including bumps, and regardless of road conditions. Tires where balanced at 7500mi but it still happens. Regardless of temperature or PSI in the tire.
I thought we had electric/electronic steering and no hydraulics? Maybe unrelated but, when turning in my driveway, very slow, I can hear a slight clicking (maybe rubbing) noise coming from the steering wheel column. Everything else has to be silent to be able to hear it.
View 1 Replies
I'm contemplating a 4" lift on my 2012 F250/6.2L. It sits at stock height now with 315/70R17, slight rubbing on the mud flaps near full lock.
View 8 Replies
Have a problem When i make a slight turn to the left sounds like the tire is rubbing the inner fender. Don't do it all the time. The tire is not rubbing.
View 4 Replies
I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
View 12 Replies
