Golf VI R :: Significant MPG Decrease After Neuspeed Intake Install
Jun 13, 2014
My MPG has fallen ~ 35% since the intake was installed. Barely did 20mpg driving at 75mph from Vegas to LA and now averaging about 17mpg on the next tank. What should I be looking for? I'm stage 1 APR (was before the Neuspeed as well) stage 1.
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This noise I have is driving me crazy, installed neuspeed race springs and now I have this weird spring noise, sounds like the springs are binding and then releasing when you turn the wheel, like a clicking dinging noise, it's on both sides and happens when moving slow and turning the wheel and when stationary and turning wheel, it sounds like tug and release not really spring bind I checked install and everything is correct even disassembled bearing assembly and everything is fine, lubed spring seats with silicone paste nothing is working.
When looking at the spring and turning wheel it's almost like the spring is getting stuck on the middle part of the seat then releasing, I know this was a common problem on the mk6 but I haven't heard anything about the mk7 the spring is seated in the lower perch perfectly the upper is were the noise is coming from you can see as you turn the upper bearing by hand it actually somewhat twists the spring and then releases and that's what makes the noise, and it dose not move in a nice circular motion kind of like an egg shaped rotation and it makes the spring flex and pop I think there's a problem with the springs,
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I have a CTS Turbo intake and have recently purchased a heatshield. It did not come with instructions. I tried installing it this weekend and it was a no go. I'm assuming the pieces for the factory engine cover in the rear is what the heatshield needs to replace to bolt on. I couldn't get those off for the life of me.
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Put my BSH intake in today, it's pretty good. I am pleased with the fit and finish. The only concern I have is when I'm at WOT and around 4800-5300 there is a high pitch sound along with the sound of the turbo. Is this normal or do I have an issue?
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Installed Forge Twintake on my GTI, CBFA engine code. Have had it installed for 2 weeks now, it was running funny ever since, idling was weird and every time I shifted I felt it through the clutch. Throttle response and acceleration was fine though. Yesterday driving to work the CEL came on, I scanned it today and got P0101 MAF VAF and got P150A idle speed control. I was thinking about cleaning the MAF sensor to see if that was the problem but it doesn't seem like that would solve the problem of it running weird. Was also considering reinstalling the stock intake and seeing how it ran then and or if the CEL went off.
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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I truly enjoy the benefits of of having the added hp/torque. However, I've only been able to use setting 5. I'm curious as to what would happen if you constantly ran the module on setting 7 without having 100+ octane in the tank? I went to Neuspeed's site and saw that they ran 91 octane for both settings while performing their dyno. So now I'm curious and hoping that one of you have the answer.
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I just installed an Injen intake to my Sonata 2.0T, but now it doesn't feel as quick off the line. It sounds incredible but idk.. just feels a little sluggish now..
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I had the neuspeed springs installed last weekend and now the Front right side make a loud clicking noise every one turn on the steering wheel. it sounds like the springs it self. What could it be?
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Anyways, I've been doing a lot of work on my 6.0 2004 Ford Excursion lately, and recently installed my Sinister Diesel intercooler pipes and intake elbow, and had to remove my throttle body completely to do so. I know that the 2004 models throw codes when removed, and that's what I'm here for. Mine isn't dogged down and actually runs even smoother with my new piping and intake, but I want to get rid of this code.
Is there any tune out there that can erase it? For some reason my Edge Insight CTS2 sees the code, but my SCT X4 flash tuner doesn't see the P0488 code. I know people have discussed this topic several times, but after hours of reading through posts I never found any solution to this. All I need is a way to delete the code because I don't like having my CTS2 with a trouble code for something I did on purpose!
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta wagon, 2.0l bev engine, 5 spd. I just recently replaced both oxygen sensors due to codes that popped up, but have noticed recently the gas mileage and performance have decreased. Now I get the code 16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold P0420. The car passed smogged and all the readiness codes passed. One major noticeable different, is when I apply the gas, it is not accerlating like it should.
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I had this same issue on my old 03 GTI. Trying to blip the throttle on downshifts there's a significant lag when I press the throttle to when the rpms actually spin up. Nearly a second I'd say. Goes towards feeling like the pedal is very disconnected from the motor. I know it's drive by wire and maybe that's the problem but perhaps there's a maf mod or something I can do to improve the response. The car has a vf stage 1 SC kit on it.
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Symptoms : You will hear a squeaking noise from the passenger side of the car. It will increase and decrease with engine RPM, and apparently can be heard from inside the car as well. This noise is from the tensioner bearings failing...which, if gone untreated, will then cause the serpentine belt to fail.
If the belt fails, it seems that the battery light will come on, followed by engine coolant temperature spike (overheat).
Bad tensioner sound:
Confirmed failure shortly after this sound:
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I just wanted to know if there is any significant changes in driving with the traction control off. I know in curves and other situations it is affected, but I am talking in a general everyday drive to and from work and so on. Is there a difference between driving with traction control off/on, as per say mpg or anything like that.
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2003 GLI 2.0 engine
We have a significant coolant leak. The attached pic is of a coolant pipe which runs down from the rear of the head at the firewall. This was taken from the underside looking up.
[URL] ....
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I just put on some brand new Bilstein shocks/struts with new mounts and some Neuspeed springs. It seems like the rear sits lower than the front. Maybe some polo bushings to bring the front down a bit? No stereo stuff of anything in the trunk..
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I just installed the BSH turbo inlet pipe as well as the Neuspeed P-Flo intake.
Install was pretty simple, the only things that gave me trouble were those stupid clamps on the inlet of the turbo and on the maf, just because they are a pain in to get off ..but anyway im very impressed with it so far. It looks great and high quality. It sounds amazing! Not too loud that it gets annoying, but still gives that p hhhhh sssss sound that everyone loves.. The turbo sounds much meaner and there seems to be a significant increase in throttle response. At first i didnt really notice much power gains, but after driving it for about two days, i've noticed that my top end is a lot better and it pulls alot harder on the freeway and in 6th gear.
I also installed the forge diverter valve yesterday and like everyone says, its not much louder than with the stock diverter but it did gave the intake more of a flutter sound.
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I'm having trouble getting the strut back through the steering knuckle. I used the 1/4 ratchet to spread it and get the strut out but I can't get the strut to go back after installing the VWR spring. I've tried speaking with many tools now and it's just so damn stuck. I hope I haven't damaged anything by hammering a wedge into the point where the ratchet is supposed to spread it. After a couple of tries the ratchet doesn't seem to spread it at all.
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I had my car tuned over the weekend with apr stage 1. As soon as I went to start the car to leave I started getting a misfire on cylinder 4. We have tried swapping coils around and re-flashing the ecu with no luck.
Details on the car : 2010 GTI 6spd 21,000 miles
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I recently installed the LED euro tail lights with out swapping pins, or any ghetto harnesses. i simply installed my tail lights with the oem harness. Anyways, after i installed the lights, the bulb out warning came on, i got rid of it, but when i press the brakes it triggers the warning light to appear after i vagcomed it to go away. so what is the coding to get rid of it?
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Is an alignment after a spring install necessary?
Getting my H&R springs installed tomorrow and was curious
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