Golf VI R :: Rough Idle - Some Random Fueling Errors
Apr 13, 2014
A few days ago I noticed a very rough idle first start of the day, this happened twice, then on my way to a show this morning, I lost most power for about 15 miles, boost would not go above 0hg, all the sudden on the highway,BOOM, back to normal...during all of this no engine light or CELS were displayed. Scanned the car later in the day and the only thing that showed up were some random fueling errors, cleaned the codes from the memory and so far so good all is fine!
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'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
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I am happy to own a Hyundai Santa Fe (2009) 2.7l which originally originated in the US. It is a really nice car, however, it recently over time developed the problem, which causes some pain - firstly it started with rough idle (pulsating), now it began to stall from time to time when decelerating.
[URL].....
I tried to plug a OBD reader and here's what I get (well, that's a "pending" fault, but still might be useful).
I tried to browse around the internet. I believe it is unlikely that 2 oxygen sensors fail at the same time. It could possibly be caused by vacuum leaks or faulty MAF. Is it a common fault among Santa Fe?
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
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Mine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
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2015 Golf TDI s model. When I try to use a SD card absolutely nothing happens. No errors, no reading, like I have put nothing in the SD card spot directly below the CD player in the glove box. On all the radio menus the SD card is dimmed as if nothing is in there. I have tried 4 different brands and sizes of SD cards, different formatting options, different files, still nothing. The iphone cable works fine, so does bluetooth and the CD player. No error codes either with VCDS. I have tried complete resets of everything but no luck.
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I have a mk4 1.8t Gti. Recently I have been having issues with idle and boost. I read the codes and multiple random misfires in all 4 cylinders came up, idle control and the crank, knock, and o2 sensor came up. Shows that system is running to lean as well. I changed the spark plugs and wires, check the coil packs they where done about 1k miles so I expect them to be perfectly fine. When I clear the codes it idles below 9-8k rpms. I also noticed the breather hose coming out of the valve cover into the EGT has a hole melted into it, could this cause any of my issues?
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Replaced my Crankshaft position sensor and cleared my codes but I'm still getting a P0016 and P0018 error. Car runs fine at the moment. Can't smog and therefore register it till I figure it out. Next step is replacing the Camshaft position sensor.
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My 2015 GTI, Gas engine, Manual Transmission ... Blinkers consistently give me an error code advising me that I need to get the front left, front right, or both blinkers checked and do a rapid flash and make them inop. Turning my car off and restarting usually clears this (almost always on the first try).
Also, the following problem has happened 3 times at varying degrees of severity when the temp has been -30F or colder. I've started my car to warm up, when I've come back to my car after 10-20 minutes I've had 2 warning lights on. One is the little yellow eng light, which my manual says is "Engine control malfunction". And the other is "EPC" which my manual says is also "Engine Control Malfunction", but also governs it to 20mph. After many restarts, or letting the vehicle sit, both lights will come off (not at the same time). 2 of the times there has been a burning rubber smell. Currently it has a battery blanket and battery pad (pad added by my husband after the first time I had the -30 issues, as the battery was low) and an oil pan heater.
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I have 22000 miles and this never happened on the car before wonder if it has anything to do with the recall, had the fuel system recall done about 200 miles ago. Other day after fueling car wouldn't start, also new "feature" to this car. Hope the recall didn't do something bad, I tried to reset it by reseating the cap, but warning comes on as soon as I drive it.
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Once in a while, I notice that my TDI has a rough idle. It feels more like a shake in the seat than rough idle. But I don't know how else to describe it. This usually happens at warm up- after driving about 5-10 minutes.
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I've been having this problem lately, when its a hot day the car revs up passing the 1000rpm's or when I am in traffic for a long period of time it does the same and its stays there for a while ( like 5 mins) then returns back to normal. Heres a video so you can see of what I am talking about... [URL] .....
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Symptoms:
- rough start-up, car shuts down
- backfire when releasing after WOT
- OBD-II codes (see below)
Okay so these issues started to appear only 1 day after I got tuned...
Problem History:
Day 1:
- car started mildly rough
- I got an EPC light on my dash 2 minutes after moving and for 2 seconds the car sounded like an STI (the sound you hear with a misfire)
- I turned it off and on, EPC gone car started up normally
- took it straight to dealer, they checked coils and plugs and said that it's a tune issue.
- went to take it back from the dealer and that was the first time the car shutdown immediately after start-up. it started at second attempt with a quite long ignition sound and the STI-like sound briefly once again.
Day 2:
- I went to my friend and we pulled the codes from OBD-II and only got the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code only (as the dealer probably erased any other code related to my EPC light)
- we deleted the code and drove around
- every time we turn the car off and on. The car starts up mildly rough and the code comes back up
Every 2 days or so:
- the car would require 2 attempts to start but no EPC light coming up.
Day 4:
- I had a night of possibly 6 WOTs to test the cars performance, and it was performing great. didn't feel any loss in power or anything. (was friendly racing my friends modded 135i with very impressive outcomes)
- car backfires after i release the gas pedal at WOT (not with every WOT but 2 out of 6 runs it backfired)
- After the last WOT i got the EPC light. turned the car off and let her relax for 5 minutes.
- car took 2 attempts to startup. with severe roughness and shakes (as if the car is cammed V8 engine) for 5 seconds and then back to normal.
Now since the EPC light came back on i wanted to check if there is another code from the OBD-II. I was hoping that the issue will only be the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code but my fears were true and i got another very annoying code
This is last nights code pull
2 Faults Found:
14914 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
[Code] .....
Day 7:
- The car had the sever start-up roughness again
As I'm trying to find a solution for my problem here are the steps i took/will take:
- took it to the dealer for nothing.
- ordered an O2 sensor extender for the P0420 00 [175] - Efficiency Below Threshold code and i hope it's somewhat related to the start-up issue. it will arrive today or tomorrow.
- once the extender is here, I'll take it to an exhaust shop to install the extender and check for any DP/Exhaust leaks
- I will take it to a mechanic to check any leaks in all intake/air connectors and piping, any leaks in DV (I have forge recirculating DV), Boost pressure sensors (the piggy back was connected to them and one might be loose when we removed it), spark plugs and coils.
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So last night my battery died, and nobody around me had jumper cables.....so I was forced to bump start the car
It worked, but now the idle is really rough. At a stop in neutral the revs stay between 800-1800 sometimes. When I'm up shifting, every time I left off the clutch the revs jump about 200 rpm and now I have a CEL.
What could have happened?
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My R is acting up a bit today. I went to start it this morning and the battery was dead. I'm not sure if I left the stereo on (it doesn't turn off when the key is removed and door opened. I have to disconnect the faceplate every time.) or what but it had just enough juice to unlock the doors and light up the some light LEDs. After I got home from work I went to jump it and it wouldn't even unlock. I had to use the key to manually unlock the door.
I was able to jump it just fine and took it for a drive. It idled high sometimes and would drop down to roughly 400-600 RPM. Driving the car, it was clearly lacking power and not running properly and the traction control light came on. I parked it in the driveway and took a video of the idle, shut the car off and started it up again. This time, the idle seems normal but it doesn't feel as responsive or powerful as it was before today. The traction control light is still on as well. If I rev the engine up, it'll drop down to around 1,100-1,200 rpm, sit for a few seconds then finally drop to 800.
I just got it about three weeks ago and haven't done anything to the car. Hopefully this is something minor because I don't really feel like dropping a ton more money on a car I just bought.
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So today I went for a drive in my mkvi gti with apr stage 1 and an intake and the car was idling rough and then as i pressed the clutch to take it out of gear and brake the car would rev up to about 3k and drop ant go up and down a couple times until it returned to normal idle and still it would idle rough and this happens every time i press the clutch to take the car out of gear. also on a cold start it would jump up to like 3k and then slowly drop down.
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So this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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