I just picked up my new R (Rising Blue 2 Door w/ S-Roof & Nav) yesterday and love it, except for one thing. When accelerating and changing up through the gears, the revs seem very slow to drop after lifting off the gas and dipping the clutch to select the next gear. It is like there is a delay between me lifting off and the instruction getting to the engine.
View 6 RepliesLooking for some hint regarding V6 AUE ? Regardless if engine is warm or cold, sometimes happens to me that during driving, while slowing down and pressing on clutch pedal, revs just drop down to 0 and engine shuts down (vehicle still moving). This usually happens while changing gears from 3rd to 2nd on low speeds in city, or while slowing down to full stop in 2nd gear and pressing clutch pedal.
While this happens, I quickly switch off the ignition and start the engine again, which is tricky and potentially dangerous, since vehicle is still moving but my power steering and brakes are not functioning because of stopped engine.
Some relevant info...I have K&N cone air filter intake and ECU is remapped by BTS Racing (German tuning house).
Car is running and pulling normally. In all other regimes of driving, there are no issues or whatsoever.
It is difficult to explain (and google) but my 1.4 16V Golf 4 does this sometimes: while driving at a steady speed car jerks for a moment and revs drop quite much, a moment later it is fine. It feels like I had stepped on the brakes, but when I actually try that the revs won't drop as much. Like my engine seizes up for a fraction of a second but there is no noise. It has done that actually for 3 years, but it was really rare, about twice a year, but now I have had those jerks three days in a row.
View 3 RepliesGot a 02 Jetta 1.8T 5spd auto tiptronic with 100k miles. Having issues with shifting. Trying to determine if its electronic or mechanical. Had a short in solenoid 10 N283 which melted the TCM. Put in a used N283 to see if the trans is still ok mechanically. Plan is if its ok to put new fluids and solenoid pack. What do the experts think does is need a full rebuild or will new electronics do the job?
After putting the used N283 solenoid the trans works but not correct. The problem is in the shifting only. Feels like its out of time. When you start moving from a stopped position from 1st to 2nd the car takes off good but when changing gears it reves and feels like its slipping then it hits hard into 2nd. Then 2nd-3rd is a fast shift and not hard. 3rd-4th slips and revs a little then changes gears 4th-5th is fine. all down shifts are fine. Does not mater if the car is hot or cold its the same.
If I disconnect the MAF 1st to 2nd shifts fine with no problems. 2nd-3rd little rough but not bad. Problem with disconnected MAF when going in Drive at 30-40mph all of a sudden it jumped into 1st gear and felt like I was slamming on the brakes.
With the MAF connected and I shift manually in tiptronic mode each gear runs real good with no slipping at all. But same problem happens when switching gears. I can drive it smooth if i accelerate to 3000 rpm and then left off the gas a little and it shifts fine.. Same with the other gears.
I got a used TCM to rule that out and the problem is close to the same. It tries to shift at lower rpm but still does about the same problem. I did recently had a MAF go out. Put in a new bosch and no change. Did my VCDS scan and only codes I get is "17840 secondary air". I can get operational data on some solenoids but not sure what parameters to look for.
Purchased my '12 R a week ago. It's got 40k on it. I noticed that sometimes after disengaging from first gear, the revs climb and hang around 1500 for around a couple of seconds.
View 7 RepliesSometimes while cruising at moderate to highway speed I'll go full throttle (to pass, merge, etc.), but the car just revs for about three seconds then catches a gear. It has happened in D and S mode. I've taken it in to the dealer and they checked for any codes, but there weren't any.
View 21 RepliesMy car will not leave first gear until the car reaches 60 x 100 revs 9 has heated up. After leaving first gear it shifts smoothly so I doubt its the transmission fluid, plus it's over 14 thousand miles and I was told not to change the fluid for the transmission. I think it could be a bad solenoid because when I bought the car the dealership wouldn't let me take it home until they installed a new one or else "it wouldn't leave first gear" if so witch solenoid would that be so I could replace it.
View 7 RepliesSo I got my stage one flash yesterday and I noticed 5th gear slipping already. I don't plan on getting a k04 upgrade, maybe stage 2 down the road. so I am looking into the drop in clutches, preferably this one [URL] .... I am just trying to find out some reviews from people who are currently running drop in clutches and the issues that they have come across.
View 8 Replies2015 TSI Transmission Problem... Clicking sound, over the past few weeks clicking has got worse, rough idle, very abrupt gear changes when gearing down, gear gets "stuck" around 2200 revs and jumps back and forth. what do you think the problem is. and no its not dsg. has 5000 miles.
View 8 RepliesMy wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
After the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
I have a 2009 Tiguan Auto Diesel and have noticed recently that, when cruising along, if I take my foot off the gas pedal the revs drop to idle. The revs only pick up again if I touch the accelerator. Im sure it did not used to do this. If you feather the gas pedal to maintain a set speed (say 50mph) then this can have the effect of the rev counter dropping to idle and going up again to, say 2500 rpm all the time.
The rev counter seems to be all over the place!!! I also had a stall situation the same day. I was leaving a driveway to join a main road. The driveway is on a slight incline when exiting. I nudged up to the kerb line as normal and then took my foot off the gas to check noting as coming. Nothing was so I accellerated gently and the car stalled. I think this is related.
The Tigual Auto box is not DSG it is regular Auto and it is also 4motion. I have noticed the haldex doing its thing in D2 when pulling off, you know that weird bit where the revs drop a bit even though the gear is not changing. This is a little similar to that but not the same....
It happens when there's side to side movement or any gear change. I've tried spray/grease nothing seems to be working. I've read on other forums people replace everything under the boot only to have it return in a few months. I would really like to have this this squeaking gone. Cars a 2012 GTI
View 13 RepliesSo I am getting a crinkle/pop noise going slow in 1st gear. I don't know if its the clutch or the gear itself. drives fine but the noise is pissing me off. its like a mixture of crinkles and pops .
View 11 RepliesI have a 2013 golf r and I usually shift gear at 3 rpm when driving normal but for some reason it doesn't feel right, I can hear the clutch making a weird noise whenever changing gear at a low rpm, it feels so much smoother when shifting above 4 rpm but I dont always wanna punch it so hard especially when there's always traffic from where I live. Any advice on a smoother shift at a low rpm.
View 22 RepliesI just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.
I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.
Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?
First, when I downshift to 2nd gear for instance, I don't feel like the car slows down any and I'm still needing to hit the brakes to slow down. In previous cars, going to 2nd would seem to make revs go up and slow the car down. Wondering if this is common on the Golf R to almost feel nothing when downshifting?
Second, my gauge cluster lights up when I'm driving outside w/o the lights on. When I go into a parking deck the gauge cluster starts out lit and then goes completely black except for the blue needles. Wondering if this is normal or if I have a cluster issue?
Car has 17,000 miles on it and completely stock minus the soundaktor removed.
Ok so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
View 5 RepliesWhen I come to traffic and slow down, I have this jerky feeling when I'm coming to a stop. It's not from my brake or transition from gear changing. It's repetition of jerky feeling, not like one jerk from second to first gear.
For example, I'm in my first gear and stopped on the road. If I release the brake pedal and do NOT press gas, my car slowly moves forward with this jerky pulsation. It also makes noise (well.. I can hear it through my exhaust) while it moves. It feels like car is about to move, then stops, then moves, then stops.... I don't really get this when I apply gas.
I have a Mazda 6i Touring 2009 (2.5L, 4Cyl.) with an engine failure. I don’t have any power. When I press on the gas, the revs go up but the car is slow to accelerate, hesitates and I get a CEL. So, I connected the car to an OBDII reader and got these two codes; P0403 and P2188.
I then went to my mechanic and had the vehicle tuned-up. I did an oil change, spark plugs change (The 2 in the middle were black, burned. The other 2 were OK) and a radiator flush. The car was still having the same problem so we decided to clean the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the EGR valve. Also, the air filter is OK.
After putting everything back in place, he also checked for a vacuum leak but didn’t find any.
We went for a ride and at first, it seemed a little bit better but after the car got warmer, same problem… I connected the car again and we got 3 more codes; P061B, P0300 and P2187. He deleted the EGR valve and we went for a ride to see if it was the problem but it felt the same.
He then decided to go for the injectors. After listening to the injectors, he found that the two in the middle are pulsating a lot faster than the other two on each side. So, this is probably why the system is too rich...
My mechanic connected a system to clean the injectors, took the rail out and tested them and said they were working fine, they are not clogged and have no leaks. He then switched the injectors to make sure. He put the 2 in the middle at the extremities and vice-versa. Same thing, the two in the middle were pulsating a lot faster than the other two even after being changed. So, this proved that the problem is not the injectors.
He took the new spark plugs out to check and the two in the middle were black burned while the other two were perfect. He also switched the coils just to see and the problem remains.
He doesn’t know what else to try… Even bought another PCM and programmed it to see if that was the problem but no, it does the same with the other PCM connected.
And same codes come out. Here with a freeze frame:
Confirmed Trouble Codes
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit (Powertrain, Generic)
P2188: System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
[Code] ....
And just found out that the oil smells like gas .... Why are only those 2 middle injectors receiving a signal to squirt more gas than the other two? What is going on? What could be the problem???