Golf VI R :: Rev Matching On Downshifts - Throttle Mapping?
Feb 19, 2013
Just purchased an R and with about 500 miles on, having issues with rev matching on downshifts. Before you go there, I've been driving manuals on street and track for 29 years and have never had an issue with any other cars. I find the Golf R throttle pedal really lazy; you have to really zing it to get the revs up. My question for those who have gone to APR Stage 1 is did it work with the throttle curve relative to pedal position?
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Looking for a PDF or link to some airbag sensor mapping for 04 treg v6? Specifically Front End Sensor system.
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A new problem with the navigation system display on our 2010: the radio station buttons are mapping with an offset.
In other words, I press the top left preset button, and get the radio station two positions down. If I want the top left station, I must select an area well above that station on the touch screen.
Is there a way to reset the touch screen so that it maps correctly?
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VW says I might need a new clutch. I have 85k on original. When are your clutches going? Do I need to change the dmflywheel as well?
i thought it might be a bad synchro. It only does it when warmed up and on downshifts. I can let the rpms drop all the way down before shifting and it will grind. rev matching i think still grinds. wont do it cold.
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Seems like the engine and transmission are talking through Google Translate. The usual problems: too quick upshifts, too slow downshifts, lugging and vibration at RPM too low for road speed around town, hesitation. Aware this all supposedly support mileage but it's putting a rough edge on an otherwise quiet and likeable car. In fact, mileage seems to be suffering a bit. Aware there's a TSB on the 6AT that supposedly cures this via a software update .
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I bought a 2003 Jetta with a 5 speed automatic transmission (09A tiptronic) but it upshifts and downshifts really bad, it doesn't matter if it's cold or warm. After reading a lot of posts in here I thought that what was wrong with the car was the valve body on it, so I bough a re-manufactured valve body and replaced the old one. When it was in the shop I was told the wiring harness was burnt/fried so they replaced the harness too. I got the car back and it still does the exact same thing, so I don't know if the transmission is bad or maybe it can be a bad TCM. What could be wrong with it?
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I don't see anything in my 2010 owners manual about the air cond compressor cutting off under throttle. Yet on my 2007 Audi, it stated such in the owners manual. I'm wondering if it still has this excellent feature in the base Golf.
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With normal driving or semi spirited, once i change gears the car seems to bog down initially then pick up slowly but then it seems fine, but if I am actually getting on it threw the gears it doesn't seem to happen. its very noticeable sense the throttle response is now and it used to be great. If I let off the gas then get back on it at a lower rpm it seems to happen as well. it just feels like it dips down then picks up. i first noticed it when i down shifted to 5th the car seemed to hiccup and then went on, now its seems to be in every gear, I am not getting any codes or lights what so ever and the car drives fine other than that....
Mods: C2 flash, eip exhaust, intake.
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So after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
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Where to find this wiring diagram? I was getting hesitation in my throttle and the EPC light kept going on.. So I did some looking and found that 2 wires pulled out of the plug in the cowl harness... There are like 5 plugs under there, and these 2 wires were pulled clean.. So I cant tell which one goes to which... I know its definitely part of the 4 wires going to my pedal...
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My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
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So driving home from work today and got on the throttle a little hard going uphill in the highway when the EPC light came on. I was only at at 4.5-5k rpm and the engine didn't totally cut out it just shuttered if I hit the gas. I pulled off turned the car off and when I started it again the light was off and car drove fine.
2015 Golf Sport SE 1.8T, APR Stage 2, APR downpipe, APR Carbon Fiber Intake, Remus Cat Back Exhaust Chrome Tips, LED license plate/rear/turn/brake lights
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I am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
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Whenever I try to brake boost my GTI the throttle seems to cut out. is this some kind of safety feature where brakes will dominate throttle when both are depressed?
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I had this same issue on my old 03 GTI. Trying to blip the throttle on downshifts there's a significant lag when I press the throttle to when the rpms actually spin up. Nearly a second I'd say. Goes towards feeling like the pedal is very disconnected from the motor. I know it's drive by wire and maybe that's the problem but perhaps there's a maf mod or something I can do to improve the response. The car has a vf stage 1 SC kit on it.
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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Have any other PP 6MT owners experienced strange throttle hesitation while shifting with a APR 1.2 HO tune? I know what turbo lag feels like, but it is almost as if the throttle position is not being read for 1-2 seconds after shifting.
No matter how hard/fast I shift, I can't get the tires to chirp, even shifting at high RPM. When I watch my speedo after shifting, the needle does not move at all until the delay ends, and of course it moves fast when the boost builds. But for 1-1.5 seconds after shifting, with the pedal to the floor, I would expect some acceleration, even not at full boost.
Even when not shifting, and going from no throttle to medium/full throttle, there is a delay with no acceleration and no significant noise/rev build.
I don't remember this being as pronounced before I was tuned. Also, I had GFB DV+ installed about the same time, but I would expect the DV+ to make this better, not worse.
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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At around 70 mph when I am going down a hill the automatic transmission will shift down from overdrive into 3rd or even 2nd gear. It should stay in Overdrive. I have to tap the gas pedal to keep it in overdrive. They already looked at the TPS. Also, around 75 mph my ABS light goes on and stays on until I restart the car. Not sure if this is related. Just had a complete brake job.
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Having downshift problems? The dealer has "flashed" the software 3 times and the hesitation still occurs.
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I am getting to the point with this car that I can't stand driving it This thing where the transmission downshifts as I slow down and come to a red light is the most obnoxious feeling I've ever experienced in a car. What's worse, is when I go to speed up again and it's in the middle of one of its downshifts and hick up so bad it feels like it's can fall out of the bottom of the car. I'm done trying to deal with Toyota dealerships, all they do is tell me that Toyotas don't have transmission problems and that my car is fine unless it kicks on a light.
I feel like if this transmission was reprogrammed to act more like a normal transmission Like the electronically controlled transmission that was in the 1995 Alexis that I sold a few months ago, or my wife's 2006 solara or the 2008 I asked to 50 I used to have, the car would be fine. But this thing is neurotic, jerky, and unpredictable.
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