Threw a random CEL, took the car to Pep Boys, Code P0036 was found "Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2. What I should do and risks involved if I do not take care of it soon?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
So I have my CEL light on error codes are P0036 & P0141.... how do I fix it??
View 1 RepliesMy prius 2010 (III) accelerate much slower than before. I started noticing this after I picking up my car from the airport. Parked the car there for a week. I have the dealer checked the computer but no error codes found. My car has almost 250k KM on it. I have not replaced the spark plugs the last three years. Could it be the spark plugs?
View 5 RepliesScanner found u0293,,,recommended reseal power inverter. what I have read for two days says its Power source ECU.. What happened,,,kids was driving car, had 3 phones plugged in, ac, lights, and when she tried to set cruise, car went into limp mode, gear lights flashing,,,went into neutral,,,stop beside highway,,had to be towed.
12 volt battery charged and tested ok. no blown fuses. I reset ECU by jumping pins 14 and 4. no change, tried master reset by holding brake and power button down, no change..removed ecu fuse to reset, no change.
Have VSS code PO501. Have fitted new right vehicle side speed sensor, after reset code clears but quickly returns so still got code. Speedo is working. Have sent ECU for testing - no faults found.
Car is an auto, can the left/drivers side sensor cause this or the transmission sensor cause this?
Sudden power loss experienced. CEL (Check Engine Light came on) and Glow Plug Light was flashing. Power loss is severe so really can't drive it anywhere. Turbo Failed at 5500 miles.
Mechanic quote: "Found code P0299 for turbo power under boost. Removed upper engine cover and intake hose. Checked turbo shaft and found play near intake side of turbo. Removed lower engine shield and lower hose to intercooler. Checked for metal. Contacted VW and created VTA. Instructed by VW to replace turbo. Did."
Sounds like service manager abbreviated when entering into the computer. In any case a shame that this car was in the shop for more than a week while the dilly dallied and waited for a turbo to be shipped in.
Some earlier turbo-fail threads from last summer stated dealer told them "bad batch" of turbos was being experienced by VW. Believable, particularly if they're banged out in China? Let's all hope it was a bad batch.
I have a 2005 prius and I got a scanguage to read the codes. I have two lights on my dash. One is the check engine and the other is the (O) light. I think this is something to do with the regen braking. Anyways when I run the scanguage it says no codes found. What type of scanner would be able to pull up all prius codes?
View 6 Replies2011 Subaru outback with 49000 miles. Regular oil changes every 5000 miles with Subaru filters. After the last oil change at 45000 miles the engine started shuddering when reversing from garage at @48300 miles. Once warmed up drives okay. Within a week it threw up code 0028 and found engine oil jelled up. Drained, flushed and replaced oil. I replaced the oil pressure switch and solenoid just in case. Code came back with less than 1000 miles after oil change. Can't understand the reason for jelling. Have been using Castrol GTX 5-30 all the time with Subaru OEM filters.
View 5 RepliesI changed my oil and found some metal particles in there... not a whole lot, but if you look at the oil pan in the sun you can definitely see a "glittery" effect... the particles are nowhere near big enough to be able to feel in your finger, but you can see them....
I have already dropped the oil pan and inspected the crank bearings... they all look good.. I did not remove the rod caps, I didn't want to dig into it too far, but now I am at a point where I am thinking.. maybe I should tear it all down and find the source..
I need a new clutch, not sure why the clutch didnt last more than 9000 miles, but I was told it should be covered.. And with that.. since I need to drop the trans anyhow.. and I need to find the source of metal... Maybe I should just remove the entire engine/trans together and make one big job out of it??
I really am hoping it's the turbo putting metal into the oil since that is the newest unit of the system.. and it would be covered under warranty as well.. Tough decision really.. I admit the 3.2 VR6 is a bit overwhelming when it comes to disassembly.. not to mention all the fasteners that need to be replaced...
I always check the fluids, every 2 weeks or so just to make sure everything is fine, yesterday I found oil inside coolant reservoir.
The last oil change was performed 2 weeks ago and the oil that came out of the engine looked normal to me, no coolant in it.
I want to keep this car because is more than a car for me, I have a lot of plans to do with it but damm it getting annoying.
I just touched some weird insulation material under the steering wheel and took a closer look at that area, to find this. Very weird. I don't remember the fuses exposed like this in my old mkV, at least nothing like this ugly.
View 20 RepliesYesterday I noticed nice fresh pink stain on fresh new concrete after a 20 minute ride, after coming back to the car an hour later. When I open the hood you there was distinct smell of wetness and dampness. I'm at 16k. Also visible at the bottom, under the pulleys dried stain on the plastic shroud. The coolant level is about quarter of an inch below min.
Furthermore I noticed oil build up around plastic intake tube just next to the firewall. So far no CEL and other issues, except my compartment lid in the middle console refusing to close and fully open.
Our Daughter has added a 3rd Jetta to the family, A 2002 2.0 5 Sp with 123K. Runs like a top...looks great and figured a deal @ $2300... The man used it as a daily driver with about 3 mile run to work.... Oil was black, a little low, and the white sludge on the cap....Oil changed with synthetic (not sure what he was using) added thermostat and temp sensor to fix the cold running codes...and 2000K miles without a flaw.....
Until her oil light flashes and chimes....and she is 2 qts low....
Not a single indication of a leak found, overflow tank is clean, no smoke and the exhaust pipe appears normal, so I'm scratching my head now....
We have been fighting a misfire code for about a year now and I'm pretty sure I finally found the cause. Last Spring the car died on the road and we had it towed to a local service center where they said the fuel pump was bad...this was the 2nd in about 2 years (previous owners doc). We had it replaced and the car was fine but as mentioned had a random misfire code that would come and go. In the last month the car has left us stranded several times and then started after a few hours or a day. While checking the connection to the fuel pump with a meter and test light I verified the pump was getting power correctly to the 5-pin connector but would not start. I unplugged the connector and the 1st 2 pins in the harness connector were damaged and probably burnt.
I cleaned it and applied dialectic grease and plugged it back in turned on the key...fuel pump primed and then the car started and ran fine. It then started to randomly turn on and off but not enough to stall the car. I wiggled the connector and the it I could make it run or shut off. Obviously the connector is bad and the contacts are intermittent. While driving the vibrations would move it just enough to make it cut on and off and more than likely cause a misfire code and sometimes stall the car. My problem now is I can't find a replacement connector/pigtail for the harness connector anywhere including the dealer. Where can I get a new connector for the 5-pin fuel pump harness connector? I have found a MAF replacement connector that looks very similar but not 100% sure if it's the same.
Maybe I've been having too much fun in the rain... I've recently noticed an odd smell in the car and found a small wet spot underneath the passenger front floor mat, only to be followed by same in the rear passenger floor mat. I was hoping it won't happen again, but I found myself with the wet floor few weeks later after the rain.
I first thought it may be the bike rack (which I have posted in the earlier month) but seeing the location and occurence, it couldn't be from the rack. It was always the underneath the center of the freaking floor mat.
My R is at the dealer since yesterday, getting a full physical.. They're even talking about removing the headliner to make sure there is no internal leak from the roof.
i have a 2005 camry 4 cyl. and i have a couple of code: second o2 sensor, system too lean, misfire cyl. 1 2 3 and 4. when i run the car it is incredible how much gas it take.
I first replace the second o2 sensor and i cleaned the maf sensor, air filter, iac and trhotle body but the codes came again.
I purchased a 2010 camry 4cyl. and i have this code of random multiple misfire, along with misfire on all 4 cyl. plus the P2716 code.
I had some issues with the fuel pump, got stuck, replaced it with a after market one, car did not run at all with it. So i decided to test the original one one more time. It worked, so i installed it back. The car starts just fine, takes off smooth, but when i get to 35-40 mph, the check engine light will blink, if i press the gas the engine will shake a little bit, and i can feel there is no power at the engine.
If i release the pedal for a moment and than press it again will run fine until i reach 35-40 mph. If it's in park, i pus the rpm up to 7k, engine runs just fine, no blinking check engine light, no engine shaking....
Like i said, 6 codes, 4 for each cylinder misfire, 1 for random multiple misfire, and p2716 solenoid....
'02 TB w/ code P0300 / Random misfire. Started the other day when it was very damp out, FWIW. Feels like ur driving on rumble strips during acceleration. Rough idle also. It does not do this continually though as after a while (minute) it clears up and runs smooth for a while then runs rough & light will again for a while. I seafoamed it today since it been about 60k since last seafoam. I thought that might have worked until I drove about 20 mile and it went rough again. I also cleaned the oil out of the cam sensor elect connector, since that caused rough running before, although it didn't throw that code. It seems to be very intermittent. '02 TB, 185k miles, orig plugs changed at 125k. Is it actually just going in & out of a limp-mode? O2 since it's random ???
View 14 RepliesRecently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
View 10 Replies2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor