Golf VI R :: RPM Will Occasionally Surge Up When Coming To A Stop
Jan 22, 2014
So I have the warranty on my car still and I've brought my R into the dealership to have it checked out. They want to do more "diagnostic" work on it since they're not sure what's wrong with it.
The Issue: When coming to a stop, the RPMS will occasionally surge up to 1500ish RPMS, before slowly dropping down to the idle 800ish.
CEL has come on twice in the past month after a day or so of this happening (first time, CEL went away on it's own after 3-4 days, 2nd time, I had the code cleared at the dealership).
Code: P0507 - Idle Air Control RPM Higher Than Expected
I'm thinking it's the PCV valve failing, or in the process of it. The dealership says they think it's an air leak somewhere in the intake system...which would make sense to me if it was a static, constant problem, but it's not. Therefore, through deductive reasoning, I believe it to be a moving part or a valve or some sort that is failing to operate properly.
The car is 100% stock. I have to take it back into the dealership in a couple of days, and I would like to suggest they check the PCV valve if that is the general consensus on here rather than waste more time.
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Couple other questions: The car just got a 30k 4 mos ago. From prior records, the previous owner had the fuel filter changed at 20k in June 2012, then the 30k svc was done in Jan 2013. Should I be proactive and change the fuel filter now before the 40k or just wait it out?
Should I press for any other maintenance, etc to be done (car is at 35,900 miles today)...?
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2002 1.8t Jetta Wagon with the automatic transmission. They've had it for about a week now and we've been trying to iron a few problems out. Mostly cosmetic until the last couple days.
The coil pack harness is trash. I bypassed a couple of the extreme cracked wires in attempt to keep it going until the new one comes in hopefully at the end of this week. We put new plugs in but only afterward did we find out that NGK or VW is the way to go. We put autolite iridiums in.
New fuel filter, however, the line connecting the tank to the filter will not click into place completely. We are able to start/drive the car without the line popping off from the pressure, but you just have to tug on it with your hand to get it off, no need to depress the clip.
The car seems to run better cold. Once it is warmed up and you've been driving around town for 10-15 minutes is when the shuddering starts. It ONLY dies when in Drive or Reverse while at a complete stop. The idle drops down to 400 rpm or so, you can't rev the motor/drive. Sometimes it will come back up to normal and you can go, sometimes it will go back and forth but you can't get any power to the wheels. Sometimes it will drop the RPMs and shudder at 400 for a couple seconds then just die. It always starts right up without hesitation. In park/neutral the idle is still slightly erratic, occasionally bumping up to around 1300 rpms for a second or two then back to around 900 or so.
When we bought the car, we test drove it and it was fine. Of course that is how it works out. They drove the car for about a week. In that time, it shuddered and died once, and would occasionally shudder at a stop light but there was no issue driving it or loss of power when accelerating.
What I'm wondering is if we should go ahead and order the R8 coil pack and spark plug kit from HSTuning. I'm hoping that the harness fixes the issue, but if it could be cheap spark plugs or a coil pack going out, I'd like to get it all done at once. My main concern is the possibility that it could be the transmission. The symptoms feel like loss of power, not slipping, but still, I'm worried that maybe it could be the issue.
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Going uphill, it just doesn't have the power like it did. Also, it feels that it's not in the right gear..like 5th or 6th gear. It's hard to describe the symptoms. The weird part is that the MPG is the higher than normal.
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've had my R since last July and I love it so far (20,000 mi.). Recently I have run into a couple of problems.
1. When coming to a stop, my RPM drops to 600 and then as I release my foot off the brake, it dips down to 400 and back up again causing a "jerking" motion. This sounds a bit different then what most of you are talking about regarding the recall.
2. I am about to buy my 2nd new front tire due to a bubble in the sidewall. I have the Dunlop SP Sports.
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I picked up a mkIV about 2 weeks ago, I've noticed that when the car is warming up that it feels like the transmission makes a *thunk* when coming to a stop. It seems to go away for the most part once warmed up, but every once in a while it will happen randomly after the car is warmed up though. I'm assuming this is the transmission disengaging as the wheels stop turning. Is this something I should be worried about, or is this "normal"...
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When I come to a stop there is a squeaking sound that is difficult to localize. It sounds like a combination of a squeaky rubber bushing and/or squeaky bed springs. The volume is magnified when slowing to a stop in a quiet garage but the best I can do is localize it to "the underside of the car".
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Last Thursday I was coming home from work and the first time I came to a stop the R32 began to buck just as I gave it a little gas. Tried stopping and starting it but it continued to do it the rest of the trip home. Fast forward to this morning (first time we've driven it since) and it completely stalled on my wife on her way to work. She managed to get it started and get it home. I drove it around the block and sure enough when it comes to a stop after moving it stalls. I was able to consistently get it to stall just by getting it moving and then coming to a stop. I scanned it for codes last night and got a couple of different codes. Ignore the photo-sensor one - I am fixing that just need to find what I did with it.
Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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Coming home from a 2500km round road trip and back. At the time I was about half way home during the 1300km day, the car is in D and has been all day and it has been about 500km since I last came to a complete stop. I stop at a red light on the highway in a small town on my way through, look at the tach and see the rpms, once its dropped down to first, dip down to about 300 or so, then quickly back up to 550/600 which is its normal idle, then all the sudden it stalls out completely killing the motor. Cycle the key and start it up right away and it drives as usual. his might be the 2nd time this has happened. R32's and DSG.
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I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
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I picked up an '08 R32 about two months ago and was having issues with the DSG and the dealership determined it was an issue with the mechatronic unit so they swapped it. That made a huge difference, but the downshifting is still very hard when coming to a slow stop (to the point where the car jumps), especially from 2nd to 1st gear. About half the time when I back out of a parking spot, then put the car in drive and start to give it gas, the car doesn't move for a few seconds as the RPM's build, then it slams into gear.
This all happens in drive (D). I haven't even used the other modes to know if it's happening there too. The dealership says they don't see any issues with it and there are no error codes and that there is nothing wrong with the car, but this is by far the worst transmission I've ever had in any car I've ever owned. I find it hard to believe that VW and Audi would put this in their higher end cars, so I can only assume there is something wrong with mine.
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This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
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to explain exactly...Before coming to a complete stop,maybe driving 15-20 mph you can hear a squeek from the brakes.That is without riding the brakes.As soon as i press on the brake pedal eve very softly the sound disapears.Then when i am at a complete stop and slowly take off i will hear it again...eek eek eek.... then by 30mph plus it fades away.
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