Golf VI R :: Possible To Lock Car With Key While Away From Vehicle?
Aug 11, 2012
Wondering if there is a way to lock the car while you step away (warm car up, go into gas station, etc.).
View 3 RepliesWondering if there is a way to lock the car while you step away (warm car up, go into gas station, etc.).
View 3 RepliesMy GX used to honk when I hit the lock button on the key fob. Now it locks the doors but there's no honk. The horn works when I press it.
View 7 RepliesI took my car to our local Phaeton Service Center yesterday (the bottom plate needed to be cleaned so it could pass the obligatory annual technical evaluation). I had the technician perform a few software adjustments (no seatbelt warning, activation of comfort window opening via the remote control, automatic locking and unlocking of the doors) and now when I lock the vehicle the red alarm LED's on the inside of the front doors start to blink for a few seconds, and then stay on (solid red) for about two minutes. After that they start to blink slowly again.
Before yesterday, when I locked the car, the LED's would blink a bit faster for about ten seconds, and would then resume their slow blinking. Is this normal behavior or did something go wrong?
I traded in my '03 Camry for a '16. In my '03 Camry, if I did not lock the doors after closing them and walking away, they would automatically lock after 30s-1min. I can't seem to get my '16 Camry to do the same thing. I found the "Auto Lock Timer" feature in the "Vehicle Customization" of the ETune Audio System display. I tried setting it to 30s or 60s and standing outside of the car, but the doors do not lock, even after 5 minutes. What I can do to get them to lock automatically?
View 14 RepliesThis is an annoying thing. for example when i just have to step out for 3 seconds and grab my mail I don't want to shut off the entire car and restart it.
1) Is there a way to leave the ignition running and get out of the vehicle and lock it?
2) I heard we can go to the dealer to enable the remote start feature, is this true? or would we need to do a 3rd party addon?
2008 lexus es350 i have
I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
What is the range on your remote to lock or unlock your truck?
Mine is currently 30 +/- feet I recently replaced the remote batteries and saw no improvement.
On my Toyota it is 200 +/- feet easily..
I am just trying to determine if a trip to the dealer is needed.
2011 GX460 Premium I searched the manual and on-line manual.
1) How do I set the doors to automatically lock when I leave the vehicle?
2) Also, at night when I open the driver's door, the panel on the door is NOT illuminated making it difficult to unlock the door for passengers. This is a true safety issue. How can this be fixed and NO I do not want the door unlock operation buy handle touch or remote to unlock all doors.
The website [URL] ..... is valuable BUT the separate PDF manual sections is poor since it is difficult to jump around within the whole document. Each section of the document reference pages outside the current section. There is no easy way to know what section that page is in.
I had the service vehicle soon light come on the other day and it took out the gauge back lights, fog lights, and tail lights. Also, when I used to lock and unlock the car with the remote the exterior lights would flash, now they don't. I check all headlights and tail lights and none of them are burnt out.
View 11 RepliesI have a rather peculiar problem with My 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. This has happened multiple times spread out over the last 10 years. Every couple of years after a rather long drive, then a stop, it spits, sputters, has very little to no power, and will ultimately die. It will usually start right back up, idle fine, but when you shift into gear, it acts up as described. If you let it set for about 15-20 minutes, it will usually start up and run fine without the symptoms as described.
The First time it happened I was lucky enough to be within a mile of the dealer, who diagnosed a bad fuel pump before it was ever on the lift. He showed me what he said was the culprit, which was a fuel filter that was full of black particles and soot. He replaced both the pump and filter and it ran fine for a couple of years and it started doing the same thing. Another new fuel pump and filter and we're running again (all under warranty).
About three years ago it did it again and this time we went to a different dealer and since we were no longer under warranty, we wanted to know what was actually going wrong. Nothing was ever found, no codes, pressure was good, everything looked fine. No problems until today when it started again, no dash or check engine lights, it just wouldn't run. We let it sit for 20-30 minutes and started it right up and drove it home without incident.
Are these vehicles known for vapor locking? It sure acts like that is what it was doing. The temp wasn't that hot and was ruled out as a factor.
I am planning to put a new fuel filter in it?
I want to disable that beep beep sound when you lock or unlock the vehicle with the remote. Does this can be disable?
On my previous Nissan Altima, you can toggle this feature by pressing the lock+unlock simultaneously. I tried that on the Corolla, it does not work.
My passenger front door lock will not work with remotes or lock unlock buttons inside vehicle.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
View 2 RepliesI've got a transmission question on my 2010 2.5 with the 5 speed manual.
First off, let's set the scene. I pull into a spot, pull up the ebrake and usually put the transmission in 1st or just leave it in second. Then I come back to my car several hours later, after it has cooled off, and I'd like to back out of the spot.
Now sometimes, after the car is cool, it doesn't want to go from 1st into reverse. There is some resistance and when I push slightly, I hear a quick clunk/grinding noise.
However, reverse engages just fine when the car is warm, no hesitation at all. I'm not sure what to think of it. One theory is that when the car sits the clutch loses hydraulic pressure and does not fully disengage once starting the car. Another is inadequate lubrication on the syncros when the tranny is cold.
I'm being very OCD about this, I'm use to driving early 90's Saabs with close to 200k so this wasn't expected with a new car. Perhaps I should double clutch. Shift to neutral, let out clutch and then push in and try reverse. Or just leave it in reverse when I exit. It's happened about 6-7 times in my first 2k miles.
I'm sure if I mentioned it to the dealer they wouldn't be able to replicate it and say I'm a PITA. And yes, the clutch it all the way to the floor and I do know how to drive stick.
I was on my trek home today back from mikes and I went over a bump going through a toll booth, probably going 15mph. When I went to accelerate in 2nd it randomly started to cut out and did that for a few seconds. After that noticed it sounded like a clamp on my downpipe is a little loose. And when I give it gas it sounds as if I have an intake, just not as loud. So I pulled over at the rest stop and it sounded like the clamp came a little loose. What could cause that intake like sound? I'm going home tomorrow to go over the downpipe and check to see of anythings loose.
View 5 RepliesI took note of this over the weekend. When you use Launch Control in tiptronic and you let the vehicle shift itself, it shifts at 6500-6700 rpms. But if you do Launch Control in Sport mode in first and second gear it shifts at 7100 rpms.
View 1 RepliesJust today I started hearing a whining noise from the rear that came and went. I wouldn't be worried but it was so loud that the radio could not drowned it out anymore. The noise when away when I gave the car some throttle so I am thinking its the rear diff. It was pouring down rain and I wonder if there was some part of that that could have had an affect.
View 24 RepliesDoes your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
2002 Jetta 2.0L...
The Haynes Manual tells you to lift the car up and un-mount the engine mount on the drivers side of the transaxil to get access to the VSS underneath the vehicle, but you can do it from the top of the engine!
1. Take out your Air filter box for easier access
2. My VSS was covered by a metallic heat pouch with snaps. (not mentioned in Haynes Manual)
3. I got Needle nose pliers to wedge in the small area to unscrew the bottom half of the VSS. It is a small area to get your hand in, but with the needle pliers was actually pretty easy.
4. Then get something small enough to release the clip for the top plug. I used my screwdriver.
5. Screw in your new VSS and plug the top cable back, then put your air filter back in place.
If you look at the pictures I took, you can see the VSS and the silver pouch I mentioned. I had a lot of trouble finding the location of the VSS with no real good pictures or explanations online. Note these pictures were taken from the drivers side, which the empty space is where the air filter was and on the right you can see the battery.
1 Fault Found:
00323 - Vehicle Inclination Sensor (G384)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 143
Mileage: 133853 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 17:27:31
The following occurs: When car is in PARK there is no strange vibration even with AC on.
When DRIVE is engaged, vibration begins, even worse with AC on. Once the car accelerates vibration is gone.
I went to the authorized dealer service shop and they told me that this symptom is typical of these cars, they even sat me in some other cars to prove that these vibrations are normal.....