Golf VI R :: Noisy Dual Mass Fly Wheel?
Nov 26, 2013
I have had this basically since i got my car. I brought it up with VW and the best explanation they could offer was the DMF. When i set off, more so at low rpm and under load (like reversing out of a spot and continuing forward) i get a knock from the drivetrain. Its not super loud, but it is certainly noticeable. Everyone i have asked has said it just sounds like the Dual Mass Flywheel making noise, but should i be at all worried? I made sure i have it on record with VW that i noticed the noise and they said its no big deal.
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I know I am stating the obvious but a clutch job on a 2010 Santa Fe CM (diesel) takes a lot of time.
My brides Santa Fe has over 280,000 km (175000miles) and has had the loud clatter from the flywheel (dual mass) for quite some time and more recently the pedal started to remain on the floor and the 'fix' of bleeding and flushing new fluid through the system stopped being effective. When a leak from the slave developed I was forced to accept that I would have to either fix or sell the vehicle.
By far the biggest obstacle I found was the non availability of a workshop manual to guide the task as it would no doubt speed the process massively for a number of reasons, some of which are listed below:
* Having a structured step by step procedure to follow, showing hidden bolt placement, torque settings, specific tools required and little tricks.
* By allowing one to assess the extent of the task and determine if one has the time/skillset/tools to deal with it would be great.
* Taking the guesswork away and thereby preventing unneeded parts removal.
* Having actual parts numbers to confirm parts suppliers supply correct parts.
Finally, of note is the way in which vehicle manufacturers assemble cars on the production line by using subframe cradles etc places massive extra difficulty with a task such as this as the clearances for tools, hands, arms and body are very very tight indeed.
I don't intend to outline a step by step process as others are far more qualified to do so, however I will point out some tricky things I have learned during the experience which may assist others. I will list them in no apparent order and will add others when I think of them.
1. The flywheel bolts are Torx T60.
2. The flywheel bolt access aperture had blocked access to the head of two of the bolts that required the use of a die grinder to remove some flywheel material. Not sure as to why this occurred or how.
3. Initially, I intended to remove the gearbox from the bell housing and remove both separately to make it easier but after removing the available bolts and prying the two apart (unsuccessfully) I removed the unit as a whole. Once on the bench I saw there were 4 bolts going into the gearbox from within the bell housing. So this unnecessary attempt needed me to split the two on the bench, scrape and clean old gasket material away and rejoin them together with new gasket silastic.
4. I supported the gearbox and bell housing from the top with an engine hoist and lowered it to be wrestled out.
5. I only dropped one side of the cradle but would remove it entirely if doing it again.
Probably enough for now i guess
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My car makes a clunking sound when the clutch is released, it's not the throw out bearing or the pressure plate, as they have been replaced twice already???? Have dual mass flywheel go bad, what were the symptoms?????
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Bought a new touchscreen head unit to put in my 06 lariat f250. I have all the controls on my steering wheel for heat and radio and I don't want to lose them with a new radio. This head unit does not have the 3.5mm jack for the axxes unit but has 3 wires labeled swc1 swc2 and swc ground. It supposedly has the converter built in. any views on using a headunit with these wires?
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Started the car about an hour ago. Pulled out of the driveway went about 15 feet up the road. Noticed the dashboard light with the (!) was illuminated and I didn't even turn off ESP. Shifted to about second gear power cut off engine shut off.
Pushed the car back into my driveway scanned it with VAD.
16486 P0102098
Air mass meter-G70: Signal too low
[static]
edit: car idles higher than normal. sounds like MAF is toast?
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Need to diagnose an issue with my 2012 GTI its got 39,000 miles its stage 2 Unitronic tune. So I was driving like an idiot coming home one night and i jumped a set of train tracks. Bent my plastics a little and when I cranked my car the next day my CEL was on. I noticed my intake was much noiser than usual. My buddy checked the code and said i needed a new mass air flow sensor. We replaced it and my CEl came back on within 20 minutes of replacing the sensor.
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I am throwing a code for long term fuel trim being out of whack (code 17560) and I am trying to determine whether the MAF is causing it.
I pulled several redline runs while logging flow rate in vagcom. According to Ross tech's site they suggest that your flow rate should be around 80% of the engines rated horsepower. So approximately 200 g/s. I did several runs and never broke 100 g/s so what I should be seeing or has run into this code before.
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What is that called? Mass air flow sensor wiring harness? I google 2011 vw gti MAF wiring harness, and i get nothing, or crap thats almost not related to what im looking for. While I was installing my intake, I accidently cut half of the wire to my MAF located behind the battery. Why I was cutting, dont ask, i was impatient. Anyways, what is it called? I want to replace my MAF and the wiring that leads to it.
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I was just outside next to my car and smelled gas. look under the car, and gas is leaking out of the tank where the neck meets the mass of the tank...I just filled up and topped off about 2 hours ago...is the neck connected to the rest as a separate piece, or is it just one big mold? really need to fix this or replace the tank before the leak gets any worse, or causes damage to anything else.
For reference, its an 03 GLi 24V....
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So i got the UM tune done to my car then went and got my TT cams installed. After giving me car the 50 miles to adjust for the cams i get a CEL P0103 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input. Checked the connections around the maf and im noting seeing any broken vac lines or anything out of the ordinary.
Cleaned the maf and cleared the code but the CEL popped back up, got a new maf just because I like spending money on things i dont need and the CEL is still there, low speed or high speed it will pop on.
Is there anything I am missing that could be causing this problem or something i can try other then take to the place that did my cams?
2004 r32
123k miles on it
UM NA tune
carbonio CAI
TT cams
Test pipe and neuspeed cat back exhaust
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My 2002 Elantra Gls 1.8 got some weird sound coming from all 4 corners of the wheel... Recently I had replaced the front wheel bearing as the car goes very noisy when come into corners... But there still some knock... knock... sound after the car warming up especially from rear wheel.
I replaced all 4 absorbers 1 year ago as well as the tie-rods end... Still facing the same problems, the mechanic also don't know where to start...
What should I replace to settle the problem??? All the rubber bush??? Recently mileage on my car is 190000miles.
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The electric motor which adjusts the steering wheel position has begun to "rumble"--When I enter the car (keyless entry) and the wheel begins to assume it's pre-set position, a loud grumbling noise occurs. If I then use the switch to readjust the position, I again hear the noise. Is there a way to lubricate the steering wheel (WD-40?) without causing other problems?
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I have been little irritated with my noisy/rattling sound ride coming from passenger dash, my steering wheel area and some time front passenger belt. I have taken it to dealership and they could not hear anything so they duplicate the problem and no cation was taken. But they found out passenger side ball joint was loose , so they replaced that under warranty.
I wanna know if everyone sonata makes that noise when you go over little bumps on road, rail track crossing ? it just irritates me too much,,how ever the rattle/noise is not much, i cant hear if i have music on.
Yesterday I tapped on passenger side dash and there was a after tapping noise, like vibration. I don't know if its loose plastic or what. I am not able to detect the exact location where the noise coming from. but i am sure one noise is coming from steering wheel on every tiny bumps.
I want to fix it by myself now, cause sometimes noise is there and sometime not. Is there any way to detect the noise ? Noise- more like plastic noise, like loose plastic, hinges squeaking sound, rattling sound.
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I might be buying a 14 Camry tomorrow. I test drove it the other day and had it looked at by belle tire. They said the rear tires are choppy causing noisy driving. On the highway it sounds really noisy in the front of the vehicle. Everything else checked ok on the inspection but I was trying to find some wheels that will fit the Camry. 5x114 which my parents have a 95 lexus es300 that has 5x114 wheels. Although the tires are 205 65 15. Do I could put those on and will they clear everything to be able to fit?
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My AC fan has gotten noisy. Maybe the bearing is going or maybe I can oil it and get rid of the problem that way. Any instructions on how to access it?
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I drove to the mall and left the car there, when I was done and tried starting, it fired up but the rpms started to fall and CEL came on. CEL are:
-16497 P0113 050 Intake air temperature sender-G42 Signal too high
-16486 P0102 050 Air mass meter-G70 signal too low
And after it died it cranks but never fires up. I called the dealership trying to find out where the IAT sensor is but they said it's in the manifold and not sure where. Where is IAT sensor?
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Took my car in (2011 Golf Base 2dr 5spd) for it's 10k mile oil change and checkup and mentioned that the A/C sounded a little noisy, kind of like a whine, every so often. It didn't really bother me but my wife would complain about it. The air was ice cold and I just figured maybe it was normal. Well I got a call from the service advisor and he said the noise was due to an internal failure and they were going to replace the compressor. I sure was surprised. Got the car back and the A/C is just as cold and is now nice and quiet.
So if your A/C is even slightly noisy I would bring it up. Could save yourself having to replace a costly compressor down the road.
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Some replaced the rear shock absorbers with Bilstein B$ OEM shocks. One claimed it fixed the problem.
VW dealers and mechanic claim that is normal for the car , no repair necessary?!!?
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Do the wet boots make a clicking/rubbing type noise when turning on your car? It happen on my 2012 GTI, but only when it rains. It's really loud when I turn inside a parking garage. It's definitely not the joint itself, but rather is the rubber boot sticking to itself and releasing on the compressed side of the boot during the turn. No other car of mine has made this type of noise, even those with cheap Chinese aftermarket axles.
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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I have a standard 2001 model VW Golf 1.6L automatic. For the size of the engine it has it is pretty noisy.
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