Golf VI R :: Moisture On Outside Of Windows When Rolled Up
Jan 9, 2014
So I have noticed this issue where whenever I put a window down and then roll it back up, there will be smears of moisture all over the outside of the window. It does it on both front windows, don't often put the back ones down so I don't know if it affects those.
What this suggests is that the seal/pad that runs against the outside of the window is retaining some moisture in it and deposits it on the window as it slides past.
What I am concerned about is the possibility of there being excess moisture on the inside of the door. Has not happened in several days as the cold weather has kept the moisture low and/or frozen.
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I have had my '16 4 dr S for about a month now, and have had only one issue, well two if you count the fact that my LG G4 will not connect to AndroidAuto. Even when it is dry out and hasn't rained for days, both sides of my windows will be wet after rolling them down and back up. It is almost like the rubber seals act like sponges and coat the windows with water as the window passes through. It is not enough moisture to drip down the windows or cause a musty smell or anything, but it is aggravating.
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Took the car outta storage today. After driving home with the windows partially down, i rolled them up and then herd 3 beeps and a couple lights flash on the dash. I drove around a little more and did the same thing... window partially down, then back up and i got 3 beeps and some lights on the dash flash.
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All work yesterday. This morning, windows can't be rolled down from all controls. Power lock works only from passenger side.
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I'm having an issue with my car this afternoon. This problem has occured randomly about three times now over the course of two years. I've noticed though as of today that it happens whenever I sit in my car, roll down the windows and turn off the car to wait for someone or take a nap, etc. Is this a clue?
When I go to turn the car back on, the power windows roll up veeery slow. The car has pretty much all the lights on the dash - the red triangle, VSC, all of those in that row. Also, the brake light is red on the dash (I have attempted to engage/disengage the parking break but the red brake light still remains 'on' on the dashboard) and the brake button has a blinking green light. I also can not move the car into gear in any way - 'drive' or 'b', etc. The first two times this happened, I called AAA because I thought the battery was dead and they didn't know what to make of it as the lights were clearly ON on the dash so there was power to the car. They did attempt to jump it which didn't really do anything but somehow they managed to sort it out (not even knowing what they did!) and I could switch gears and drive again. This hasn't happened in quite a long while - not until today when I rolled the windows down turned the car off (I'm pretty sure I shut it off) and sat for 30 min.
What happens more often lately is.. I go to turn the car on in the Am and the red triangle goes on the dash and the car will not go into gear. I also get the 'transmission' problem on the display. So, I have to take my foot off the brake and just pretty much hold down the power button for a while until it shuts the car off - then when I press down on the break and push the power button again, it starts up normal and I can drive. This has happened more consistently then the problem mentioned about. I read on this forum that the problem seems to be the 12v battery needs replacing - but does that mean it's also related to the issue above?? I'm thinking since the power windows were in use this would be a related issue.
So, if this is a 12 v battery issue - what are my options? I'm stuck at work right now. Should AAA NOT try to jump it (I've been reading this is not a good thing to do unless the dash won't go on) but just tow it to the dealership. I have a 2007 Prius.
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Heard this noise from the suspension when going over bumps with the windows rolled down? It's loud enough to where i am sure it could be heard if you were a pedestrian walking next to the car. I have an IS350 Fsport (AVS), sounds pretty junky.
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It rained really hard yesterday. This evening I got in my car and the windows were all wet on the inside. While I believe some moisture is normal this was ridiculous. Where to check/look or what it could be. I checked the sunroof and under all the floor mats (not under the carpet; just mats)..
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Twice in the past few weeks my Sonata's windows were covered in moisture so bad I had to use paper towels on every window to be able to see out of it, even had to wipe up water dripping onto the dash board, took it back to the dealer and of course they couldn't find anything wrong. I purchased the car in April, now has 3,000 miles on it, I'm thinking that the change in the weather (cold nights) are why this has now shown up.
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It seems to be on all my doors making me think this is just how they are ...
Basically I put the dry window down and it comes back up covered in small water droplets. That's not a big concern by itself but if it's not just some random part like the weather sealing that stays damp and my doors are holding onto a bunch of water that has me worried.
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Know it's fairly common for AC air to smell moldy, due to moisture on the evaporator. What brand of disinfectant spray Volkswagen uses to spray into the cowl vents? I've heard that some manufacturers use Ultra Shield, and some sites say Lysol spray is okay, too. Just wondered if VW uses something else.
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I get it every now and then in the mornings. Now I know I can just turn on my headlights and it goes away. But it's a brand new car.
I have xenons. Just wanted to see of this is common or not. Dealers solution was just that. Turn headlights on.
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This is the first winter with my LED tails installed, and notice that I get varying amounts of moisture on the inside of each corner light lens. It makes me a bit worried that this will eventually cause a short or destroy a light in my not-so-cheap tails.
It comes and goes based on relative humidity, temp, and precipitation - but isn't necessarily worse when raining. It's almost like the larger the delta between a higher cabin temp and colder outside temp on a "humid" day generates the most moisture.
I have checked the "bulb access" on each corner and the weatherstripping is intact and appears to make solid contact when tightened down.
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I rolled up my left rear window a week ago and got a serious pop and crunch from it. I now have taken the time to take it apart and found that the cable has snapped and the carriage is in pieces. I'm not going to bother replacing any of it. To the point.. the motor has a crap load of wires going to it. I would like to get rid of it all together, brace up the rear window(s) and never look back. Is there any reason why I could not just unplug and remove the motor and its control or is there something else running form or through it too?
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I just finished doing the actuator repair on the passenger lock that was explained on this site. Put everything back together and checked my window. The window rolled down, but nothing for up. The switch on the drivers door would not work the window either. Pulled the switch apart and with my ohm meter was getting power to switch, but no other wires gave me a reading. So I figured it was my switch and went down and bought a new one. Put new switch in nothing. I then tried the drivers door switch and window worked? What to try now. I pulled fuse #7 that is said to be for my windows/locks during all this and all the windows except the passenger worked????
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Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
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My driver side window makes a noise when it is being rolled down. About half way down, it sounds like it is rubbing against something. This noise only happens when it's being rolled down, not up. The funny thing is, this noise started happening after I got a sub installed. I doubt it has anything to do with the installation but just wanted to point that out. Could it just be that it is dirty inside? I also have my windows tinted but the noise came way after that.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew. Last year it got really cold (2 degrees) and I went to roll down the driver's side front window to get ice off of my mirror. Something broke and my window fell down into my door. I was able to fish the window out and it rolls up and holds the window in place. It will go down a couple of inches, but when it falls it kinda falls forward and then to the bottom.
I have the panel off again right now because my wife used my truck and forgot about the window and I had to go through the process of getting it out again. So I figure now is a good time to fix it.
What broke and what I need to do to fix it? As I say, it will catch and work fine once I pull the window to a certain height and then it seals just fine as long as I don't use it. I looked at other threads and none seemed to fit exactly what mine is doing.
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I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
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Automatic car was "parked", turned off.
Key removed, though it was not in P.
Emergency brake works and applied, but may not have been applied all the way.
Rolled back across the low low grade parking lot and our white car bumped a ... black porsche! Doesn't appear to be any damage other than paint smudge/transfer from the bumper.
Normal safety feature where the car needs to be in Park before the Key comes out isn't working properly.
Is this something I can get the MFG to pay for? It's not under warranty. It's under a 3 yr power train warranty, but pretty sure at best this is a only related to a transmission issue, not directly a transmission issue. No recalls as of now for this on my vehicle.
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I bought my GS new and it has 40K miles now. It is a 2010 GS AWD. Yesterday I get off work, a hot day, I get in the car, started the car, and passenger front window rolled down by it self. I tried to rolled it back up and it would not go up. I shut the car off and re-started and was able to roll it up.
I thought maybe it was the heat. The next day it happened again, but this time while I was driving. There are no funny noises coming from in side the door and no water has ever gotten in there. I also never leave the windows cracked instead I raise the sun roof up for heat to escape. I find this very odd self-operating window. The rest of the windows work just fine.
Battery has never been disconnected. what may be causing this window to operate on its own? a lose wire maybe?
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So my son has a 93 Saab... my wife was driving it home the other day and one of the radiator hoses burst, steam rolled out from under the hood and the car died. She had no idea what had happened so she called my brother and they pushed it into a nearby driveway till I could look at it. The next day I found the busted hose and replaced it, but the car still will not start? We pulled it home with my truck and a chain.
Of coarse on that car the distributor cap is right above the hose that burst so I assumed water got into the cap. I took off the distributor cap and though it seemed mostly dry I wiped it out anyway and let it air dry for a while. After putting it back together it still will not start? What to do next or what to try?
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