Started my car this morning to warm it up, idled for ~ 20min. weather conditions. I returned to my car, and it was misfiring and threw the p1545 throttle body code. There was a mk5 tsb for a similar problem involving wiring. 49k miles, stock tune, w CTS catted dp.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
I have a 2000 GTI GLX VR6 and when I start it in the morning (ie cold) after the initial "choke" and the revs drop it becomes erratic. Sometimes it will stall out. If I restart the car it will throw a check engine light and go into limp mode. If I let the car warm up it runs fine. If the car has been driven and is relatively warm it runs fine. Initially there were several codes but after replacing the MAF and the fuel pump relay the only remaining code is P1545.
My mechanic seems to think it may be the coolant temperature sensor. The code seems to indicate the problem is the throttle. "Throttle position control malfunction". Not sure why warming it up makes a difference (unless of course it is the temp sensor). When I replaced the MAF sensor I did clean the throttle body. I was very careful in doing so. Problem existed prior to my cleaning it as well. After changing the fuel pump relay things were better for a few days but then the problem returned.
Would a corroded throttle body cause a false code P0332 knock sensor.
View 4 RepliesThrottle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not working with diagnosis. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. How to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims. [URL] .....
View 2 RepliesFew weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
View 2 Replies08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
I decided to take out the throttle body and clean it with throttle body cleaner that I got from autozone, after I put everything back, I started my car and the motor was shaking and smoking a lot out the muffler and just would not be drivable at all. the RPM was just going up and down and hesitating bad. later I took off the spark plugs and they were very much burnt black at the tips and that is probably not normal right? but I replaced them with NGK BKR7E spark plugs and it still gave me the problem.
View 13 RepliesI have a customer that has a 2.0 mk4 with 260000 miles on it..about 20k miles ago we had 6 codes saying throttle body was not working and car was surging, so we ordered a vdo tb, installed it reset tb and it ran fine for 7 months and 20k miles. Again car is surging, so i tried a tb reset. tb was under guarantee so we took advantage and replaced it/reset it and it threw a code within 5 min of driving and hesitating/surging. He is original owner? possible ecu getting sleepy?
View 22 RepliesSo the other day I went to the mechanic for him to see what code(s) were causing my CEL. He simply told me that there was an issue with the throttle body and it didn't know what position to be in; he cleared the codes, clean the throttle body and said if the light came on again I needed a new tb. The CEL came back on, but his diagnosis doesn't make sense to me.
From what I've researched if the throttle body had this issue the car would run like crap; however, it runs fine. Smooth idle, good throttle response, accelerates smoothly through the rev range, and I'm still getting decent fuel economy. Given that, it doesn't seem like it's the TPS either, and the tb was just cleaned so I'm confused. Could it actually be the throttle body, or is there some sensor that has just gone bad? The car is a 2000 Golf with an AEG engine & 5-speed box.
And here are a couple pic for clicks of a stock-ish car.....
The inter cooler to throttle body hose and it seems to have coolant all over it.
View 12 RepliesI have been having the dredded EPC light coming on and according to the vag scan its the throotle body. What I need to know is if one off a 2003 2.0 jetta will work on my 2004 2.0 jetta. The number on the side of mine 06A 133 062s is not the same number on the 03. I was told that they must match to work properly.
View 2 RepliesSo i have been hearing a whistle under acceleration for some time. Normally comes at 1/2 to full throttle. I also have had check engine light for a bad o2 sensor for about the same amount of time(2months). Fast forward to last week. finally replaced sensor. Check engine is gone. Open her up a little on and on ramp, Whistle is still there and the CEL comes back. Have it scanned, and it come back load calculation cross check 17551. I need an sticker so i rest the ecu (no light) and drove it like a grandma 50miles to get the sticker. No CEL. Get sticker. Just to make sure i wasn't crazy i gave her some gas on the way out of the inspection lot, and there is the CEL.
In conclusion, Between the whistle, CEL, and the fact that i drove it 50 miles with out the CEL coming back under very light throttle, and i just replaced the MAF with a new Bosch 2 months ago, i am pretty sure it is some kind of vac leak.
I have a new TB gasket in the mail, but my question is, Is there other places where such a vac leak is common in these cars? Other info on car.
UM tune
evoms intake
HPA downpipes (whistle started after these where installed)
Flapper
no res
74k on the clock
So starting with the specs: I have a Stage III+ Golf R with about 39k Miles on it. Stage III+ was added at 17k miles and has treated me pretty good. The car is driven about 3 days a week and has the oil change interval of 3k miles.
Things that I've checked or done recently:
- Cam Follower: Wasn't too bad but seemed like the outer coating was wearing off on it so I replaced it.
- Oil change: Changed the oil about 1 week ago but hadn't driven it since then until yesterday were we did about a 50 mile road trip. (No unusual things noticed)
When we came back home and parked in the garage, I noticed the sound when I turned the ignition off. It was pretty noticeable as you will see in the video. Could I possibly have a bad throttle body on my hands?
[URL] ....
Getting a misfire at part throttle. Whether the car is in gear or sitting. At idle there is no misfire, and at WOT there is no misfire. But if you hold the throttle part way (like when trying to cruise) you immediately see the misfire count go through the roof on vag-com. this can be duplicated in the garage by holding the idle to 1500-2k with no load on the motor.
4 codes, which come back immediately at part throttle as described above.
multiple cylinder misfires
cylinder 1 misfire
cylinder 2 ""
cylinder 3 ""
tried moving plugs and coils with no change, problem stayed on first 3 cylinders
checked t-body readings and appears to be aligned ok
checked maf readings and appear to be ok
found one questionable vacuum line and replaced it, no change.
checked vag-com fuel trims and they showed -4.7% which appears to be with in the acceptable 5% range
watching lamda on both front O2 sensors and they seem to be following the same trend.
When I look at measuring blocks 26/27 it shows me knock sensor signal on all six cylinders, and 1-3 are much lower than 4-6. This is the only discrepancy I have located, and not sure if it is the cause or an effect of the problem. I checked the knock sensor (located below exhaust manifold on passenger side) and the sensor and wiring appear good. I checked resistance best I could and it appears in spec (infinite resistance) but the pins are so small and the spec is so vague I am not 100% on the results.
I have vag-com and a full shop access, but no R32 specific bentley unfortunately. I only have the older (up to 2002 I think) MK4 manual but that only covers the 12v. Looking for the wiring diagrams for the coils or knock sensor harness'...
2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
View 4 RepliesI searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
View 5 Replies