Golf VI R :: Misfire When Acceleration At WOT?
Feb 13, 2015
Ever since I've gone APR Stage 2+ (most recent revision) I think I've been experiencing a misfire when acceleration at wot- I've had the tune for quite a while now. Typically I get pop out of the exhaust in 4th gear around 5,300rpm but today I experienced it in 3rd gear same rpm but it popped 3 times in a row.
Performance mods include: HPA TBE w/ 100 cell high flow cat, APR Tune, APR HPFP, Evoms Intake, R8 coil packs and upgraded spark plugs.
What could be causing this? I've read all of the past articles and it seemed the upgraded coil packs and spark plugs would do the trick but it hasn't.
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I have a 04.5 GLI 1.8t, performance mods include, cone filter on the end of my maf, silicone TIP, Forge splitter, 3in custom tbe and unitronics stage 2
I started noticing this problem on the day I got the car tuned, I hadn't noticed it before hand. I replaced the spark plugs and it worked a little, but it continues to do it.
The problem: When I get on it at WOT under full boost, around 2500 rpms, the car loses all torque, misfires spits and sputters throughout the rpm range until about 5300 rpms then it all of a sudden has torque and pulls great.
I don't have any boost leaks that I know of along with vaccum leaks. There is no flashing cel or misfire code for my coil packs. Can this be a faulty n75 valve? if so what could fix it?
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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2002 AVH Jetta Wagon. When I got the car back in 2012 it had 121K and I changed the wires (ngk blue 57021) and plugs (ngk platinum) and she drove like a dream. A couple of months later I started having issues with wet weather and moisture causing misfires so I did the JB WELD fix and though I'd still get the occasional misfire in hard rains it lasted me pretty much until very recently, when I decided I needed to put in a new coil because the problem was getting worse (hardly starting up after a rain and bucking wildly till things dried out). Yesterday, I replaced the BERU with a new HUCO and the car started up fine and drove fine all day. I think there was a lot of moisture in the air last night and possibly some rain but this morning, SAME PROBLEM with a new coil. Misfiring like crazy, no acceleration.
I thought the NGK wires and plugs I got were rated to last beyond 20,000 miles. At this point should I assume the wires are to blame? Split somewhere or something? It's definitely related to water and the electrical system.
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I've been having a cylinder 2 misfire in my V6 2002 Solara, and I'm not sure what to replace. I've been told that I should get a new coil pack for cylinder 2. The misfires in the engine seem to be most noticeable under hard acceleration. I'm really not sure what to do.
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Misfire occurs at highway speed under acceleration, the service writer stated "we have to do a coil swap" meaning they just swap them from around, and this is the SECOND time they have done this, according to them this is how VW wants them to address this, now I understand factory procedures cuz I work for a Porsche dealer, but wouldn't you think second time around you would replace those things.
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I have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
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Motor started to misfire while out on grocery run. scanner said mifire on #1 so I bought a coil and plug. car ran well for a day then same thing on # 2.. repeat.. then # 3 repeat so did #4.
Now it did it again on #3. I switched the coil #2 and #3 to see if scanner would show if it followed the new #3 coil but so far no code. The misfire is on light acceleration, push down hard and it does not miss. Today I will try some fuel injector cleaner.. Is this the trail I should be following ?
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2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
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So my 2001 5.3L truck has 206,648 miles on it. Over the years, it's been serviced every 5K with the only big repair being head gaskets which were done about a year ago.
Two weeks ago, I hit the gas to merge into traffic and the SES light started flashing and I could tell there was a miss. I got off the gas and a few moments later, the light went out and the miss was gone. I pulled the code and it was P0303 so I change the plugs, wires, and the coil pack for Cyl 3 fuel filter and ran a double dose of Sea Foam through the gas tank.
Bad news is I still have the problem. The truck drives fine; in fact, I pulled my bass boat 75 mile round trip yesterday. Everything is OK till you hit the gas hard to merge or to go up a big hill or pass someone. When you hit the gas hard, SES starts flashing and there is a miss. I also noticed the valves ping loudly when the SES is flashing. The only code it's giving me is P0303.
Could this be a bad injector not delivering enough fuel at higher RPM/under load? I was going to swap injectors and see if the miss moves. Any tips on popping those injectors out?
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Ive been having two issues with my GLI lately, last week while driving on the parkway my car just randomly lost acceleration, no lights came on but the gas peddle was unresponsive. I was able to restart it while coasting and thought nothing of it. Then it kept doing it. It was raining that night but ive never had an issue before. Other times it dies it is sunny out. The second issue is sometimes when I hit over 10lbs of boost the car will start to misfire and run like crap. No CEL's come on the dash but if we scan it with VAGCOM it says theres misfires happening, obviously. Already did a smoke test and there are no vacuum leaks.
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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I have a 97 F150 4.6. The truck has developed a slight stumble/misfire when under acceleration. Once at speed it runs fine. It has not given any codes. I've checked for them several times. The plugs and wires have been changed. Is it possible that a coil pack could be bad without throwing a code?
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Start from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
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Well, I have been through the tech folder and all over the forum reading but cant seem to come up with a good first step. When i accelerate the truck shakes, by the sound it seems that its missing a cylinder. I guess it could also be the motor mounts. Besides replacing the plugs and coils, is there something else that could remedy a misfires or dead cylinder?
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Was driving to Airport yesterday and out of nowhere got the flashing check engine and shudder/limp mode while trying to merge/accelerate onto the onramp (had to gun it to go around someone who decided to stop on the onramp for no reason). Let off the gas and the blinking went away. Upon leaving the airport I was accelerating again at highway speed to pass and got the blinking light and then a solid CEL. Found my way to a Autozone and got the code read. P0301 Cylinder#1 Misfire. Was suggested to change COP and plug.
Changed COP on the spot and had to drive it home to my tools to install plug. Thought maybe that since the CEL was still on solid after changing that the code needed to be cleared for the PCM to function normally again. Still have shudder when accelerating hard, so thought it might have been injectors so got cleaning service done at Goodyear. Still have the issue. Disconnected battery and performed IDLE relearn just now and it still is shuddering upon hard acceleration. Stumbled across TSB 12-6-4 which speaks to my symptoms.......I do not have the plate which in turn would imply I do not have the PCM update it references.
I have not noticed a misfire nor had an acceleration issue before so this was a surprise to come out of nowhere. I'm going to be calling my dealership in the morning.
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At 89,000 miles I replaced my plugs with autzone autolites and also replaced my fuel filter. Shortly there after the truck started to shutter and shake while miss firing giving a 0307 code. After checking that plug and replacing it, moving the COPs across the engine from each other the miss firing continued under the 0307 code. The miss firing mostly occurred when I was around 50 MPH, under slight strain with a little acceleration. If I powered through it most of the time it would clear out. Occasionally it was bad enough to where I had to pull over.
I trouble shot this for about a month before it got more consistent and worse. I took it to the shop where they tested the compression on the cylinder and also tested each coil. All check out OK. They recommended I replace all plugs with motorcrafts and the boots on the coils. In the process of doing that I discovered a loose plug in the #2 cylinder. I pulled it out and found that it was scorched and the metal was slightly tweaked at the tip. Not sure how it got loose or how it got burned, but figured that I found the problem. All plugs and boots replaced!
Two days later more miss firing. This time with a 0305 code. Occurs again on a grade at around 50 MPH with slight acceleration. I pulled that plug and the plug in the cylinder where the loose plug was found. Nothing seemed to be wrong. The plugs seemed a little brown where I put anti seize on but that I figured was normal. I then moved coils again. The miss fire continued and the code did not move. There is still a rough idle and occasional humming coming from the engine.
Is the loose burnt plug a separate issue or is there something causing all the miss fires that backed my plug out. I'm lost on my next step to take. Im getting married in two weeks so needless to say spending more and more money on this issue let alone time is making things so stressful. Besides the fact that I think my engine going to blow up on me every time it miss fires bad.
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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