4000 miles on my CW Golf R - zero problems until this morning. WILD, Loud sqealing, screeching metal on metal or maybe stone on metal sound coming from front passenger wheel. at first i was positive it was a pebble caught b/t the inside rotor and heat shield - i took the tire off and nothing there.. Also only really does it when I turn RIGHT.
View 13 RepliesI have encountered a strange noise from my car. The sound is similar to a metal rotating sound. It may be coming from the front right wheel.
I cannot hear it on the freeway. I would say that I can hear it quite frequently at slower speeds. Sometimes It would go away momentarily.
I tried turning the wheel left to right to see if that had an effect at slower/higher speeds, doesn't seem related, could be wrong. Currently I am thinking it could be my wheel bearing...
My 05 Supercrew 4X4 with 172k miles started making a horrible noise these last couple days. It sounds like its coming from the front passenger side area. The best I can describe is that it sounds like an electric tool motor with bad bearings. I'll be driving along at 45mph or above and every now and then I'll hear a really bad bearing squeal. It's bad enough that I can feel the extra friction caused by the squeal start to slow my truck down. It's vehicle speed related. I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like and this is nothing like that. It's gotten bad enough I'm nervous to drive anywhere.
View 4 RepliesI have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
So was driving home from work today and was fairly close to home waiting at a light. Light turns green and I start to move forward (going up a moderate hill). I shift into 2nd and all of the sudden I hear a loud, metallic "rat-tat-tat" coming from somewhere around the passenger side front area of the car. Almost like a snare drum but more metallic sounding. Then this is followed by what sounds like a second or two of metal-on-metal type grinding noise. Don't feel much of anything, maybe a slight shudder. Then it seemed fine.
I was only about two blocks from home and it was driving okay so I continued on home. No warning indicators of any kind on the dash. When I got home I looked in the engine compartment and under the car for any signs of something obvious being broken. Nothing. I haven't driven the car since but I'm worried about what might transpire in the morning. It's even possible that it was one of the cars next to me and I was hearing the sound from their coming nightmare echoing off of the buildings to my right. But, it seemed like it was coming from my car, and that metallic popping sound has me very nervous. But as I said I drove it a few blocks after this and it seemed fine.
I have a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Sport with a six-speed manual trans and an in-line 4.0 6-cyl engine. I discovered a month or so ago a strange rattling sound coming from, what sounded like, the front passenger wheel area. It would occur when I slowed down to 10mph or slower or when coming to a complete stop, or when starting out from a stop, until surpassing the 10-12mph mark. The rattle is audible both inside and outside the vehicle. It's a low-pitched sound like an "aaaaaahhhh" you make when opening wide for the doctor to look down your throat, only with a metallic rattle thrown in. Best way I know to describe it is a voice saying "aaaaahhhhh" through the back of a fan.
I recently discovered, when I took it in for an oil change and tire rotation, that my front tires were wearing much faster than the backs and had a very noticeable "choppiness" to the tread. I have since installed new shock absorbers on both sides of the front suspension in hopes that would even the ride out for the front and eliminate the choppy tire wear. I originally thought that the tire wear and the rattle were related, but I took it to a mechanic who raised the front end and hand-spun both front tires and they made no audible sounds while spinning.
The mechanic said he believes that the rattle is coming from the front differential. Now, I am no pro mechanic, but I am not afraid to tackle a car repair job as long as I know I have the tools I need at hand to properly complete the job. First of all, does the differential sound like a good place to look? There's no change in the rattle when applying or releasing the clutch and it shifts smoothly, so I am pretty certain it's not in the transmission. Is the differential something that I could remove the cover and adequately diagnose a problem on my own? Just don't have funds available for a large car repair bill, so I am looking at trying to tackle the issue myself.
I have a set of ST that were put on a year ago. I raised them up in October for the winter. This past Saturday I lowered the car back down. As soon as I did I have the loud noise coming from the front passenger side.
I know it's not the top hats because I had that issue and replaced it and not the same noise. It is not the clunk that people associate with springs.
The noise seems to happen when spring/strut expand and retract.
Called ST today and they said if I had the car all the way down it is my fault. WTF? Why would you make a coil that is adjustable and the customer is able to go all the way down and then say it's my fault IF strut is blown?
The car drives straight and smooth so I dunno if it is blown. Could it be because of a build up of crap between the springs over winter (I saw some.)
What would be causing this clicking sound coming from my front passenger wheel? Wheel bearing? It ONLY clicks when turning left.
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I described about 3 weeks ago this loud metal sound coming from the exhaust with any revs above 4k at stop or on the road. The car sounds like a Z06 Vette with out the cats on-it is really a loud disheartening sound. The VW stealership replaced the whole exhaust but the sound is still there. Where I should direct them to look??
View 6 Replies2004 Jetta 1.8t manual, sport package with about 85,000 miles on it and I've owned it since new.
About a year ago I had a shop replace the strut bearings while it was in for some other things. After I picked it up my alignment was jacked and there was a binding sound coming from the front end. The shop said the sound was just the springs settling in. It did go away after a while. Still don't understand why the alignment was off but I aligned it myself and all was good for a while.
About two weeks ago I myself replaced:
Lower control arms (stock VW) and ball joints (FEQ or Lemforder, not sure which) with R32 rear bushings and poly front (I HATE poly bushings but that's for another time)
Tie rod ends (FEQ)
Front brakes & rotors (stock VW)
I also threw in a oem Audi lower stress brace while I was under there but I don't think that has anything to do with my problem. Then I took it to a shop to have an alignment done on it. Everything is now within spec except that the caster is 6.6 degrees on the left front and 6.2 degrees on the right front. How does this happen?
So now my problem: There is a fairly loud binding sound coming from the front of the car randomly. It sounds like the coil spring is binding but maybe it is something else? it mostly does it when I reverse for a bit and then put it in first and drive forward or forward then reverse so something is shifting front to back. Steering doesn't really seem to have any noticeable effect.
2012 Golf 2.5L, 2 months old, ~6,000km
There's a pronounced rattling sound coming from the front passenger area (I think), and you can hear it when the radio is playing. I booked an appointment at the local dealership, but the appointment was just cancelled because an "interior technician" is not available on weekends. Not only that, they said I may have to leave the vehicle at the dealership overnight, and that no courtesy car would be provided. Personally, I think that's complete BS - you don't need a P.Eng to diagnose a rattle, and what dealership doesn't have a courtesy car?
So, I'm curious to know if others have experienced anything similar, and if they've had any luck correcting interior rattles. I previously had a minor clicking sound in the overhead console area (bluetooth, lights, etc.), but that was quickly fixed at a different dealership.
Driving my golf to take daughter to airport, all or a sudden there is this very loud metal scrapping sound. So I pull over and see this metal bat hanging from under the car and rubbing on the ground. At this point I'm not sure what it is and cant really budge it or dislodge it.
Anyway called for roadside assistance and a towtruck comes. The guy lifts the car a bit and is able to free this metal rod. Its about 1.8m (6ft) long and about 5mm thick (approx). Couple of photos below. Not sure if its part of suspension, steering or something else. Did have a mobile mechanic today doing some work on the cooling system (flange) he had to jack up the car.
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The last couple of days I've noticed a metal clinking noise coming from the right front wheel area when I go over bumps. The best way I can describe it is what it sounds like when there's a loose washer and nut on a bolt. A metal on metal sort of thing. Tonight I was able to replicate the sound I heard by pounding on the tire and got it on video and posted it below. Watch in HD to hear the sound I'm referencing clearly.
[URL] .....
A couple of things to consider:
1. Just had spacers installed a few days ago
2. Also diagnosed the "clicking brake while turning slowly" issue. Thread about it here: [URL] .... Wondering if this has anything to do with the noise.
I have an appointment with Lexus tomorrow morning to have the brake clicking fixed under the TSB and several other issues addressed. Mostly rattles...
Sometimes when closing either the front driver or passenger door, it seems as though the door is not closing properly and it sounds like the latches are striking metal against metal. The doors always close and the noise does not occur all the time, in fact it occurs on a very seldom basis. The noise is very annoying and definitely does not sound right. I can not repeat the problem at will and I fear the dealer will not be able to locaate, unless it happens just as they close the door. The doors do close tight, but the sound is awful (sharp metal hitting metal sound).
View 2 RepliesI bought my R from Carmax about a month ago with about 26K miles on it (and, needless to say, I am in love with the car). However, after a week or two of driving, I noticed a squeaking/rattling sound coming from the front driver's side wheel well area when I let off the brake. It is loud enough for me to hear it with the windows rolled up, and it continues for several seconds at least after I let off the brake (maybe longer, but I can't hear it over the exhaust).
The rattle sort of sounds like it may have something to do with the turning of the wheel, so I thought it might be related to caliper vibration or something (not that I really have any clue. At all.). Anyhow, I took my R to Carmax to have them look at it because it is still under the 30 day warranty, and I figured I would start there before taking it to the local VW dealership. I got a call a few minutes ago from the service guy, who said the following:
"Our technician took a look at your car and determined that the sound is coming from your suspension. However, it is a normal sound and there isn't anything that needs to be fixed."
I argued with him and said that the noise may or may not be immediately harmful to my car, but it is certainly not NORMAL, and something needs to be tightened, lubricated, or replaced. He said he would have his tech look at it again.
At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
When I'm driving low speeds...say under 40. there is a random but frequent rubbing sound coming from the front passenger tire. Previous my driver side coil over blew out and it was replaced by VW and they raised the car. After about a week i noticed the sound. The car also shakes between 55 and 65...so i'm assuming it's a balancing issue. But can't figure out what the rubbing is....ball bearing maybe?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
I have a question about my C Four with 16" wheels. When the steering wheel goes all the way to a stop there is a thunk that feels like metal on metal. It is like there is no rubber bump stops. If this is normal. I am used to cars that have a nice cushioned bump at the steering limits.
View 1 RepliesI have a loose, binding, metal on metal sound on my steering wheel shaft. I have removed the steering wheel, replaced the clockspring, because when I removed wheel clockspring was in pieces and I thought that might be the issue. Guess not, because I'm still having problem. Other than having to remove or replace the whole steering column...
View 2 RepliesHonda Accord 2005 ... Just bought a new used car. All seems ok, but I have two problems.
(1) when not moving, i have slop in the steering and I can hear metal on metal contact when I turn the steering wheel. I pulled the tire and with basically no force I can move the rotor back and forth by hand. what it is and how to fix it?
(2) when braking, it appears that the front left pad sticks. Pads are not excessively worn down. Can't figure out how to get to the caliper pins ( thought they might be sticking).
Could the two be related?