I have lost fuel pressure within 10 minutes of a fill up. I have an APR Stage2+ set up. I have added octane booster . Fault codes are showing loss of pressure. Is it possible my HPFP rebuild has taken after like 15K miles?:bang head: Also could be clogged fuel filter or injector I am aware.
View 9 RepliesThe ole 5.4l hit a snag today. I was on my way to fill her up and she started sputtering and damn near died! i filled her up and it was like nothing ever happened. Took her to AutoZone and the diagnosis was a Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor.
I have a connection with Bumper-to-Bumper to get the part for cheap but I'm not sure if i want to dive into either moving the bed or dropping the tank. I'd prefer to move the bed.
Last night when i left work I noticed my fuel pressure was running about 77 psi, it normally runs about 68psi. today I took my daughter to practice and it was around 83psi, on the way home it was up to 95psi, so I parked it and took another truck to work.
About a week and a half ago I lost fuel pressure going down the highway and the truck died, finally decided my pick-up foot must have come off and had my sister in law bring me some diesel and it has drove fine ever since. (it was right at a quarter tank).
I have the FRX from riffraff and am thinking some pieces of that foot have got into the fuel bowl and plugging up the return. Things to check? Could it be a problem with the fuel gauge or wiring, and how to test them. It is an autometer gauge from riffraff.
It will probably be a few weeks before I can do much more than clean out the fuel bowl. I don't have anywhere inside to work on it and it's been rain/sleet/freezing rain/snow for the last 10 days. I have most of the stuff to do the hutch mod and its next on the list but was hoping to put it off till spring.
I have an oil pressure warning light on my 03' GTI 1.8t. It started as a sporadic issue, it would beep and flash for about 1-2 minutes than go away for about 20 minutes and return and repeat. I drove 130 miles on it due to an important meeting for work.
-I than changed the oil pressure sensor ( i found the old sensor housing full of oil ) and than the light stayed on after the car warmed up.
-I changed the oil pump with an OEM unit. Also changed the oil pick up- Issue still exists.
The light only comes on after 2-5 minutes of the car running. So I'm wondering if the oil is heating up and becoming less viscous than not allowing the pump to pump it as well or the sensor not picking it up.
I have oil and am not leaking it. I'm confused on what it could now be. I'm having it towed to my buddy's shop for him to take a gander when he gets a chance.I'm wondering if the cluster itself is bad.
I have a mk4 Jetta 1.8t. Problem started last night. After I drive for about 15-20 minutes the oil pressure warning light comes on. It doesn't feel any different and my oil is full. Could my pump be going bad? I hear a slight tick near the bottom of the engine on the passenger side. But the car idles fine and drives fine too.
View 17 RepliesI just changed my fuel tank and now when I try to fill it up it keeps blowing back it never did this before.
View 2 RepliesHow much gas do you put in your tank when your gas gauge's yellow light comes on (Low fuel indicator) in the Prius v (Yes, I am asking specifically concerning the Prius v)?
Would 9.25 US Gal or 35 L sound right to you?
I need to check the fuel pressure to verify if my fuel pump is functioning. What is the procedure and PSI?
Assume that I open the valve on fuel rail with engine off, then connect pressure tester kit, put key in ignition to "on" position, then pump up to specified PSI???
I have 2002 Ford Explorer and I have trouble filling it with gas. The pressure in the fill line keeps shutting off the gas pump. I have to slowly drizzle the gas in to fill the tank. Sometimes the problem is better, sometimes worse.
View 4 Repliesso my car doesnt want to start so i am going to check a few things.
first how do i check my fuel pressure or the location?
My 2011 tdi has 18k on it and yesterday the glow plug squiggle on the dask lit up and started flashing. At this point the car had no power so i pulled over and called vw. They were very prompt and got me towed to a dealer but the dealer was unable to find anything wrong even though the malfunction threw a code. I just finished a three hundred mile trip after leaving the dealership and the car worked perfect.
View 3 RepliesThis problem just cost me a new starter and flywheel, cuz after cranking my engine so many times the starter mess up the flywheel teths, anyways, i install a fuel gauge and i find out that my pressure drops in seconds, like i turn the key on (pos ii) and but the time i get out the car to the engine bay to look at the gauge, the pressure is almost ZERO
When I open the door the fuel pump primes and built pressure, when i turn the key i heard the pump primes too, but why does the pressure drops so fast?
I have an aeromotive fpr, and a bosch in line pump, turbo set up and 550 cc injectors( brand new )...
I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
View 1 RepliesI took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would get to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
View 10 RepliesGetting a fuel pressure to low fault code. What could be wrong! 2010 GLI....
View 2 RepliesWhere is the fuel pressure regulator on a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV. It's nowhere on the fuel rail.
View 1 RepliesI got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
There is a noticeable whining sound coming from the back of my car. I searched and the closest thread I could find talks about whining at speed, but this is happening even at idle. From outside the car it is much louder. It goes away sometimes, but comes back pretty quickly. I restarted the car at a red light and the noise stopped, but by the next light it was back. Seems to be happening at speed, too, although that's harder to hear over the sound of the car.
Pulled codes, and the code P310b keeps coming back, even after cleared. The car has had a dead battery for probably the last 6 weeks, and was restarted two days ago, maybe 100-150 miles since restart, plenty of warm up and cool down cycles, but the code keeps coming back. I never noticed the sound before I let the car sit, and I didn't notice it yesterday while I was driving it around (although maybe I just had the music too loud???)
APR Stage 3, APR LPFP.
1- Does is sound like this could be the low pressure fuel pump?
2- Do I need to be concerned?
I've been having this code come up for a couple weeks now off and on. Currently I am stage 2 Giac. I have the autotech HPFP upgrade and was installed a couple months ago. Recently It threw the code and lasted for a couple days then went away. I notice that if i get on it pretty hard for a while the code will come back, im guessing due to lack of fuel. I pulled the fuel pump and checked the cam follower and it looks almost good as new still. Thought it would be the sensor but doesn't seem like it as the CEL turns off after a while of not getting on it.
View 10 RepliesDaughter got a new car 2010 accent gls. It burps fuel after every fill up (after the fuel nozzle shuts off like it should) and runs down the side of the car... sounds like hyundai has problems with this on a few different models. This is the first non-gm vehicle in our family. I grew up working with them and driving them and know them well.
Anyway, looks like 3 different parts here:
Having this same issue on my daughters 2010 Accent GLS. It burps up fuel after the fuel shuts off on the pump. Which exact part do I need?
-Vapor Canister
-Vapor Canister Purge Valve / Solenoid
-Vapor Canister Vent Valve / Solenoid
I'm assuming it's the vent valve solenoid, I've got the part on order. Looks easy to replace and I will be pulling the canister box down and taking a look when I replace it. I'll check everything with air (blowing into it etc...).
On a side note, combined fuel economy is 36.5mpg. I would expect that though, small engine, small car etc...
I have a 2005 Golf GL trim 2L SOVC. For months now the car won't start on the first try. One must let off the key and disengage the starter then reengage. It always starts the second try and never starts the first. Once the engine runs for a few seconds, if you turn it off, then start it again, it immediately starts. It's never a problem en route. Only if you let the car sit for a while, say 8hrs or more, (when the fuel pressure dies) do I observe this "no start on first try" behavior.
I recently replaced the plugs and fuel filter and cleaned the throttle body. It's a little better now. It stumbles like it is going to start on the first try after sitting but doesn't.
I exposed the fuel pump and measured the voltage going to it. When you turn the key to "on" position, the engine computer put's voltage to the pump for about 1.5 seconds and that's it. So while you are cranking I guess it expects that 1.5 seconds of pump operation is enough. I put my fuel pressure guage on the port near the injectors, and, as I suspected, the pressure only builds to about 28lbs. On the second try it gets up to 40. Once running it's about at 45lbs.
Sounds like a firmware bug to me.I'm considering wiring in a switch that I can toggle to deliver more on time to the pump inititally - maybe 3 seconds? Is this normal?
I noticed that when I put the fuel pressure gauge on initially there was zero pressure. Is this normal?
Shouldn't a check valve keep it at pressure? Where is the check valve located? I'm also getting a P0171 code "engine too lean". I repaired a hole in the air hose going from the air pump to the throttle body - still get the code. All hoses look good.