Golf VI R :: How To Tighten Up Shifting
Jul 25, 2013
Well, I just picked up my new Black 4 door Golf R! I bought it used, but got a great deal and it only had 9000 miles on it! I absolutely love it, and the best thing is that my wife actually likes driving the car even though it is manual. This may not actually work out in my favor if she starts stealing it for work. Oh well.
The question I have is if there is a way to tighten up the shifter when it is in gear. I came from a 335 manual and the shifter on that car was very precise and tight. I have seen short shifter kits, but that isn't necessarily what I'm looking for. I wouldn't be opposed to the throws being a little shorter, however, my main goal is to tighten it up.
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I needed to tighten the belt tensioner up, but couldn't find a DIY. So reaching out to see if this is normal? If not how do I tighten it up?
Here lately the car has been idling funny, kinda sounds like it has a cam or something, once I accelerate it smooths out fine. I thought it was a loose clamp on my intake to the turbo but once I got that clamped down correctly it still was idling this way.
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On a 96 ford escort 1.9 liter with automatic trans, after replacing the timing belt, how do you tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt when I only have hand tools? It needs 90 or 95 foot pounds but you can't tighten it because the crankshaft just turns around and I can't find a way to lock the crankshaft without causing possible damage to the pulley or putting stress on the new timing belt. I thought of taking out the starter motor and somehow blocking the flywheel but I don't want to cause any damage to the flywheel teeth. Is there a special tool or method to do this???????
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Seems mostly for DIY'rs. Would like to start taking care of this steering issue. Steering wheel turns about an inch in both directions before wheels start to turn . How do we tighten this up?
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How do I tighten the tilt mechanism on my 2004 Vue? It kept getting more loose with use, and now it hardly locks in position at all. I took the plastic cover off but the clamping parts look like special tooling needed?
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I can't remember how to tighten my power steering belt. I've loosened the 12 mm bolt that locks the PS pump in in place. But how to I increase the tension? This is killing me, because I replaced the timing belt in July. I guess I've since killed the brain cells that I used when i put the power steering belt back on.
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This weekend, my 2011 Honda Pilot (12000 mile) started showing "Tighten Fuel cap" sign. I opened the fuel cap & close it again tightly to make sure it is properly closed but the sign did not go away. I tried it couple of times with no success (I even shutdown the engine, restart it). So I was thinking to take it to my dealer after the weekend. But next day, when I start my car again, the sign went away & it did not come again for last 2 days either. Why it happened? Should I be worried?
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Any newer model with aftermarket water separators? If so do they perform better than stock?
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I broke the mirror glass on the drivers side mirror. New glass was ordered and I connected all the parts back together. I believe I have everything in the correct place inside and the mirror snapped back into place, but the tension is not there. The mirror is very loose, and I cannot get it to tighten up.
The white bracket that connect to the new glass and snaps into the white motor is the part that I cannot get to tighten up. Do I need to add glue to this portion of the mirror?
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My jeep wont start if I tighten the distributor bolt, it will start and run fine if i leave the distributor loose. Has been running that way for 2 years and i just was wondering what would cause that kind of problem... 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo inline 6 ....
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2007 Suzuki XL 7 110.5K miles. Check engine light came on with message on display "tighten gas cap". Went to auto parts store where they did a scan and verified this was the issue. Replaced original gas cap with after market cap and allowed sufficient time for codes to clear. Check engine light never went off and message popped on occasion.
Exchanged cap at same store. Check engine light still on with occasional message. Should I be looking for an air leak in the fill tube or go with OEM gas cap figuring that the after market cap is poor design?
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I'm not talking about the attachment of mirror to glass, I mean the mirror arm/neck/pole/thing to its base.
It seems like there's a loose Torx screw (is it? I can't see it clearly).
What tool I need? It's out of warranty....
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Whenever I take a turn my seat slides side to side, both bolts are tight in the front. Is there a way to tighten the lower half of the seat so it doesn't move?
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How to tighten the drivers side mirror? It's rattling around and driving me nuts. It's loose at the pivot point not the door mount. It's the power/folding version. I looked at it but can't figure out how to tighten it. There is a little plastic access panel on the bottom below the pivot but there doesn't appear to be a nut or anything to tighten in there? Maybe I missed it?
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I have a 2004 Chev Avalanche. Several times recently my check engine light comes on, the truck dings 3 times at me and a dash script tells me to tighten my fuel cap. I do and the light goes out within a few hours or the next day. I have changed fuel caps twice. This week the light came on, has not gone off and at least 3 time it has told me to tighten the fuel cap which I have done.
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Had the Ex inspected and the passenger outer tie rod is shot. It's loose and won't tighten. I was told I needed an outer tie rod. I feel like this is something I can do, but my question is what else should I replace? While I'm in there I might as well replace whatever may also be worn (or wearing). So what all do I need to replace?
2005 6.0 4x4 Excursion
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Actually above + an interesting mystery.. Late last spring I began hearing a noise of constant pitch (sounding like someone sanding wood) when the engine was cold---Louder when it was colder/cooler. As the engine warmed up the noise went away. Throughout the summer,No Noise. n. Late summer broken water pump replaced along with hoses/belts. No noise until, temps in AM in the 40's.
Now that same damn noise is back.Only LOUDER! Same pattern>>as engine warms noise softens and goes away. My ear suggests noise is coming from the tensioner pulley (But, I've been fooled before)As to the question above, Do I tighten the belt on 'This vehicle' using the tensioner pulley or do I have to use the "Pry the Alternator forward" method.? One last thing, while the noise is occurring it does get louder with acceleration but is soon blocked out by normal engine noise.
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It's the Right Front Axle Shaft on my 2006 F250 where it goes into the Hub/Bearing assembly.
Seems way to loose to me but after I removed the Lock-Out, I discovered the Axle Shaft is held in by a Snap-Ring not a Nut (WTF) so how do I get this tightened up
Also it's my understanding (I didn't remove) between the Axle & Steering Knuckle there's a rubber O-Ring. Could all this play be from that O-Ring being wasted Although that doesn't seem likely to me, Iam worried what's wrong
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I have replaced my ball joints and now putting everything back together. I am having trouble tightening the nut on the lower ball joint, the joint turns with the nut as soon as it starts to get tight.
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2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
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I am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
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