The P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
View 6 RepliesI purchased a P3Cars gauge and an analog boost sensor with an ECS boost tap. I seem to be getting some fluttering noise at higher boost (greater than about 15 psi).
It was my understanding that digital boost gauges didn't buzz, so I thought I high have some movement of the boost sensor, hose, or the interface box for the gauge. I've got these pretty well padded and fixed with zip ties.
Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?
2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
View 2 RepliesRecently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
My gas gauge will read empty every once in a while then correct itself after driving for a few miles. Is it just the sensor sticking?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius. Yesterday, I had a very strange (to me) thing happen. My gas gauge read all notches, full. As expected, it went down a notch at about 120 miles.
I sat in a parking lot for a bit with the car in ready, running, and park. I noticed that whenever the car would switch to using gas, the gas gauge would change. It would suddenly show all notches again, instead of missing one.
When it would switch back to battery, the notch would move down again.
It eventually moved down 2 notches (which is probably accurate since I was sitting for about 30 minutes) and then would jump back up to full when it switched to gas again.
I changed the sending unit and replace the oil filter with a motorcraft unit and still can't get the oil gauge to read pressure. Since it is a gear oil pump I don't believe it is the pump.
View 2 RepliesAbout 90% of the time, my gas gauge on my 2005 Impala works just fine. However, sometimes on hot afternoons it has problems & it doesn't read accurately. For example, I will have a nearly full tank & the gauge will show 1/4 to 1/2 full, depending on its "mood". If I drive the car somewhere & turn it off, everything is fine after I re-start it. I have to drive it somewhere though. If I start it, turn it off right away, and re-start it, it still reads inaccurately. The car runs fine & there no warning lights are lit on the dash.
View 1 RepliesI have an 08 s-crew and latley the gas gauge doesnt seem to read correctly some times. Once waiting for the wife to get in and the low fuel alarm chimed and the gauge read empty. I just filled the tank. What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesI had a fuel sender failure a couple of weeks ago. 60k mi.
Basically: freeway driving, fuel gauge read 1/8 tank remaining, computer indicated "10 miles till empty" but the car ran out of gas. Fuel sender, in the fuel tank turned out to be the malfunction.
Towed to the dealer...they had never, ever seen this before.
I get the car back next week, just want to bookmark this thread in case any members (God forbid) have this problem now or in the future.
I still have faith in my Lexus, but want to share as this failure was very unusual.
I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.
We have a 1990 Ford Ranger - 2WD 4cyl - sometimes when we try to start it, it will not kick over the final time for several tries. When it finally catches the voltage gauge will flicker and jump around. When the gauge flickers, the truck will shut off...then the same issue with trying to start it again. Some days it runs just fine and others it will stall out 3-5 times in a 15-20 minute drive. We have been told it's the DIS Module OR the Crankshaft Position Sensor OR the Voltage Regulator OR .....
View 2 RepliesI was driving down the road and the rpm gauge went crazy. Then it flat lined at zero. The voltage warning light came on then the car stalled. It then wouldn't restart. Tried jump starting and tightening the battery cables. After sitting a while after I tried starting it I heard a sound like a demon grumbling I think it may have been a pump of some sort.
View 1 RepliesSo driving to work today I noticed my battery light came on..... Well I kept driving only cause I figured if my belt slipped off it would be to late to save it/if it was my temp gauge would start going into the red..... So as I'm still driving it kept turning off and then back on(the battery light) the whole way of a 25min ride.....
Finally got to work popped the hood and belt was in tact and seemed to have good tension... So I don't think it slipped or came off.... And then checked battery just to double check and everything is connected.... Now as we all know are alternators are right under the intake mani so front end has to come off to test it/replace it.....
Also when coming to red lights on the way to work the idle seemed fine never seemed to fluctuate crazy.... I know when my Audi had a bad alternator when I came to stops it about cut the motor off/did if I didn't keep the throttle revving it up but not sure as I haven't been able to test anything yet.
I've read some treads on the temp gauge sending unit but I'm a little foggy on where to look for my problem. I just purchased a 2000 F250 7.3, temp gauge not working. It has a new sending unit. I read some threads about the voltage at the plug but I have no voltage on either side of the plug. The way I understand it red/white wire goes to the battery. Is there a fuse between them and which one is it? and if fuse is ok is there a cronic problem that someone might know of that I can look for?
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Ford F250 Super Duty, diesel 6.0.
As I was driving to work this morning I noticed that the fuel gauge read almost full when it should have only had a half tank. A little while later I heard a beep and saw that the gauge was now on empty with a "Low Fuel" message displayed. Then I noticed the heater was suddenly blowing cold air.
I've only had the truck for a few weeks, but haven't had any other problems. I did replace the CD receiver and all of the instrument cluster lights a couple weeks ago, but everything seemed to be working fine after.
have a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
View 4 Repliesi have a 2007 toyota camry LE, around 55,000 miles I wanted to install LED's under the dash on both driver and passenger sides using a tap-a-fuse adapter.. I tried tapping a fuse using the CIG lighter on the engine compartment.. it didn't work.. but i noticed after i failed the battery light came on.. then I checked all the fuses.. they were all fine. I got it checked by one mechanic he said its an alternator issue.. i now have 78,000 miles on the car and had no issues with the battery, start ups, or anything. I did however get a battery test and i was a little low on voltage but till this day i still have the battery light on but my car runs perfectly fine. Can it be a code issue?
View 5 RepliesI was getting in my Touareg this morning after going to the doctor. As I turned onto the freeway onramp I noticed I had no turn signals at all and my battery voltage was pegged at zero and not fluctuating at all.
Had the battery replaced about 2,000 miles ago when I got the standard System Fault message, but it has started fine since. Even started fine this morning, etc.
Drove to the dealer while I was on the cell with my service manager who knows me by name.. I get there and shut the car off. Turn the alarm on and off and re-started it. Same thing....no turn signals and as I started it the battery voltage went up to 10 and back down to zero.
We're planning to leave it for service and it clears itself. Turn it on and off about 10 times with no error again.....very weird. Dealer needed to order some other warranty parts so they are going to check for any errors when I drop it off next week.
My voltage is consistently in the 12.5 to 13.5 range. Never at 14 volts. My tech at this dealer checked my vehicle the last time when they replaced the battery and said nothing needed to be replaced. Checked all the TSB's, etc. He and his wife have a T'reg so he seems to know his stuff.
I've heard the talk about the 14 volt reading, but he said that is not true, though it does have to have a 12.5 volt or above reading at all times per what he said. Service manager said they saw something similar last week and that owner was also getting some heavy radio static. I noticed some faint radio static, but was also listening to an AM station at the time. I do have NAV.
We have a 2013 Prius V. We found our car out of battery on Friday - the 12V battery was very undercharged - the AAA tech read the numbers but I forget now exactly.
Clearly, we don't drive the car frequently enough. Two years and we haven't hit the 10,000miles mark yet. We did get back from a 500 mile road trip though on Sunday and drove the car twice (within a 5-10 mile radius - city driving). Yesterday & today I did an average of 60 odd miles but was often stuck in traffic so the battery indicator in the display doesn't show full either.
We have also kept the same "lifestyle" the last two years and never had an issue. I did check if any lights were left on but nothing was in the "on" position.
We were recommended both by AAA & the Toyota shop to keep a battery maintainer or just drive 200 odd miles a week! The AAA mechanic said, maybe the battery is conked out but the Toyota folks didn't say anything about it.
Our issue is that our car is parked in the basement of an apartment building and find no plug points nearby or even within a range we could try to get an extension cord. And even if we did talk to management and find a hook up, how would the logistics of it work? We are in an urban area and can't really leave a car unlocked.