Golf VI R :: How To Install Oil Temp Sender - Coolant Heats Up Faster
Jan 16, 2014
I have searched a good bit on this and not come up with anything. I am focused on not driving the car hard until it is really up to operating temp. I came from a B6 S4 where this is really critical. So I want to install an oil temp gauge since the coolant heats up faster than the oil and the oil temp is what matters.
My question is where should the sender be located? Can I use something like the banjo bolt that people advertise as a place for oil pressure? Is there another good place for the sender that is not the oil drain plug?
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I have a 2003 vr6 with about 60,000 miles on it and it overheats. I can drive between 35-40 mph and make short trips no problem but when going any faster or accelerate faster than an old lady in a buick, the temp gauge slowly rises(or fast if i accelerate fast.) Until the "stop, check coolant" warning comes on(which i don't let get to that point.) it blows heat all the time, all the hoses get hot, I am no professional by any means but i have dealt with many different overheating issues with other vehicles but I am kind of stumped at what to try first so i don't end up replacing something that doesn't need to be because i do not have the extra $ to do so. The problem started when someone put dirt in my coolant, I flushed out the system twice, the second was just to see if anything else had loosened up that I may have missed the first time..
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I have a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. One of its problems is the temperature gauge was not reading. I grounded the sender wire to the engine block to deterimine if the sender was bad, and ever since the gauge reads hot all the time, even with the ignition off. Could I have fried the gauge?
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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Is it possible that too much coolant (~1" above reservoir centerline) could cause a(n intermittent) low coolant temp MIL? In the fall, I had the common STOP coolant light, where the coolant level mysteriously dropped (no leaks anywhere); we topped up the res. at that time and all was fine. Lately, I have been getting a MIL for low coolant temp, and I see that the coolant level in the res. is mysteriously high (nothing added since the fall)!?!
I was about to swap out the thermostat and CTS, but is it worth it to remove a dram of coolant and see if the MIL comes back or not? (By 'intermittent' I mean the light is on for the duration of the drive, but only during about 50% of drives--otherwise it's not on at all...)
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Few weeks ago I threw a CEL for an engine coolant temp. It went away and came back now as a P3081, I don't recall that being the code before. But from what I understand It is a simple sensor that I can replace myself. Car is running fine and not overheating.. it did however overheat the last time It threw a CEL but that was also stop and go traffic with AC on.
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I have a 2004 VW Jetta 1.8T , what the normal coolant temperature should be?
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So my check engine light came on in my 04 jetta sw, and when I had the car read, it gave me a code that tracked down to be a bad coolant temp sensor. I bought the replacement part from my local VW dealership, installed it and the check engine light went away. Now about 2 weeks late it came back on, and I am getting a reading of "Coolant temp sensor high voltage". So it goes from needing replaced, then the replacement is running high voltage?
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Threw a coolant temp sensor code yesterday morning:
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62): Signal too high
p0118 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
Does throwing that code once mean I need to replace the CTS immediately or am I safe to clear the code and see if it returns? No code today after a 40 minute drive.
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Lately my engine/coolant temp gauge has been screwing with me. It is either been almost at 190* or dead 90-100*
It seems to go up when in the lower RPM range (idle-2000) and goes down when in the higher range (4000-redline I suppose).
I stayed at or above 4000rpm on my way home from work for 3-4 minutes and it was almost at 90*...went to 5000 for 2 minutes, same thing. I shifted to 6th and it rushes to 190*.
So is my sensor bad or what?
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Today was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
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I just replaced my CTS, and I noticed that there is a small section of exposed harness wiring between the end of the loom and the CTS connector. I can't tell if it came loose when I swapped the sensor, or if it was this way for awhile, but all of the other harness connections around this area are completely covered and the loom end doesn't seem to clip into the connector or anything. If I were to try and seal it, I would need to use tape.
How hot does this area get? It seems like there shouldn't be exposed wiring here.
Picture taken with the new sensor: [URL] ...
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After buying and installing the low temp thermostat, fan switch and green top sensor, I'm still encountering boiling in the line and a temp of 3/4 of the way when at idle. My coolant mixture is about 70/30 and unfortunately I had to use a temporary fix of the prestone universal coolant mix due to the dealer being closed and I didn't want to add more water
What would be the disadvantages of running straight g12 coolant? My issue is boiling and I figure the more coolant and less water, the less chance of boiling to occur.
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After about an hour of driving, the coolant temperature light on my 2010 GTI started blinking. The gauge never showed a temperature higher than the usual 190, including traffic and idling. Having reached my destination, I shut the car off and then back on, happy to see no warning lights at all. One dinner and some three hours later, I started back for home. 20 minutes into the drive, the car sounded three tones and the blinking light came on again.
Like before, the car drove without incident for the rest of the drive, and the light was no longer present once the car had been shut off and then on again. The owner's manual said that the coolant level might be too low, or the temperature too high, but neither of these seem to be the case. The car is equipped with GIAC stage I software and an Audi S3 intercooler.
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Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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My CEL is on for P0116 Engine Coolant temp circuit, range or performance problem. I replaced the CTS, thermostat, and did a complete coolant flush/replacement last November. Car worked well over the winter no issues. Last week when the CEL came on it gave me P0301 and P0440 as well. I did a reset and the lights stayed off for the week. Then P0116 came back. Is it possible that the CTS is bad again? I measured the resistance on the CTS and hot it is about 300 ohms and cold is 2.45k ohms.
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My temperature has been randomly dropping, them back to middle, and recently my engine was overheating because I'm guessing the fans didn't turn on, because I'm also guessing, the engine didn't know it was overheating?
Anywho, during my replacement, I made sure to get rid of the pressure, and the car was cold. I tightened the cap again, but when I took the sensor out, all the coolant spewed out.
Now if I understand this correctly, do I have a leak? I figured the leak I had was coming from the temp sensor as it is.
Here's some pictures for those who'd like to see ....
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I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
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2002 jetta GLS 2.0 ... I am looking to change my oil pressure sender/switch but I cannot locate it, my oil light blinks every now and then, I was told the senders go bad often and to try replacing it, I have no oil leaks, just changed the oil and new filter. I also have noticed that when I turn on the car in the morning, while idle is fine, as soon as i pull off there is some blue smoke trail, only in the morning when i pull off, does not happen again, why that could be?
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