Golf VI R :: Horrible Vibration Under Braking, But Only When Brakes Are Hot
May 17, 2015
Need to diagnose what I assume is a brake problem. On track, first lap is fine. Second lap start to get a vibration under braking. By the third lap the car is shuddering horrible under braking. Let the car cool for 5 minutes and it's back to the same pattern. Car is fine on the street - no vibration. StopTech slotted rotors and EBC Yellow pads. Rotors and pads have one track day on them and a few thousand commuting miles. My OEM rotors with the same brand pads lasted 4-5 track days and 30k miles.
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Around 30k miles ago (or so) I had some TSW 19" wheels installed and about 1k miles later, I had H&R lowering springs installed. Shortly thereafter, I've had a very inconsistent but horrible steering wheel vibration. Most often this happens when I'm going between 45-85mph. But the strangest thing is that the vibration doesn't always happen! Sometimes I will be on the same stretch of road and the steering wheel will strongly and consistently vibrate as if I had warped rotors. Other times it will be nearly as smooth as glass.
Not sure if this is related but after the most recent set of tires were installed (around 1.5k miles ago) the car now pulls fairly strongly to the left. I've had two shops do three alignments and the alignment seems to be ok.
My primary auto repair shop showed something to me the other day. There is a bushing between the vertical steering rack and the horizontal tie-rods, etc. Whenever I turn the wheel, the bushing flexes/stretches noticeably as much as 3mm but there are no visible tears/breaks in the bushing. The shop visually checked the tie rods and they seemed ok also. A couple of my friends that know a lot more about cars than me seemed to indicate that this bushing should not move much, if at all. Below is a list of the things my car has gone through since we first noticed this issue:
- Three different tires and sizes have been used on these wheels and all have exhibited the same problem over the past 30k+ miles.
- Tires balanced and rotated by several different shops by traditional and Hunter road-force balancing machines. No difference.
- Two shops have cross-rotated my directional tires to see if wheels/tires were the problem but the car still pulled and steering wheel still vibrated.
- My TSW wheels/tires have been put on another car and no vibrations were present.
- Tried another car's wheels/tires and still had the same problem but it was slightly less intensive.
- Wheels aligned three times by two different shops since I had the current tire set installed about 1.5k miles ago. No difference other than the introduction of the car now pulls to the left.
- Replaced brake rotors and pads. No difference.
- Front and rear suspension checked and everything seemed ok.
- Removed Ultra Racing Strut Bar for several thousand miles. Minor vibration reduction but nothing major.
- Replaced hub-centric rings that came with TSW wheels with new rings from a different brand. Zero difference.
- Many other things checked but can't recall exactly what.
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I've a little over 60k on my '12 Golf TDI and I think it's time to replace the brake rotors and pads (a lot of vibration and pulsing under moderate to heavy braking). I'm looking to replace front and rear rotors at the same time, but have a question about the rear rotor size:
Websites like Tirerack & Partsgeek give several options for the rear rotors - 256mm, 260mm and 272mm.
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What causes my (front) brakes to squeal when i brake at a low speed? Is there a fix besides replacing?
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1997 Super Duty 7.5 has a horrible "whine" when turning the wheels or hitting the brakes. Weird thing is, when I have the front end jacked up it goes almost completely away when turning the wheels. It is still there, and just as loud when I hit my brakes, but the brakes never were as loud as it was when I turned the wheels. I am guessing it is something to do with the steering gear or tie rod ends or something that I have absolutely 0 experience with....
More info on the problem: PS pump was always a bit noisy, but after the truck sat for a while (around a year, drove it every couple months for a few miles) it was ridiculous, so i replaced the pump, cycled all the old ATF out, made sure I had good pressure coming all the way back to the pump, several times. Never ran it dry.
The steering wheel (with wheels on the ground) kicks back on me and has a LOT of play in it before the PS pump kicks in and starts screaming. Jack the front end up, steering is nice and tight, no play, noise is there a BIT (with the hood up and cap off the PS pump) I would imagine under normal driving conditions i probably wouldn't even hear it much, if at all.
With my very limited mechanic knowledge I would assume that something is making it very hard for my wheels to turn, which is straining my PS pump, but what!?!?!?!?
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So having done a single track day, I feel like my rotors must have warped, as there is now a slight vibration when applying the brakes. This is very surprising as I don't do anything out of the ordinary, and tried to use brakes intelligently, including a proper cool down lap and so on. Is this normal? What are my options for making life better? Is there some set of rotors I should get that wouldn't be prone to warping like this? Is it a question of pads?
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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So sometimes (only sometimes, of course) when I step on the brakes, I get a slight vibration of the steering wheel. Doesn't seem to make a difference if it's gentle or not-so-gentle braking. Brakes cold or warm doesn't make a difference either. Nor does traveling in a straight line or not at that moment.
My understanding is that "warped" brake rotors are mostly a myth these days, especially for our beefy/hefty rotors. The car did not used to do this.
Rotors are "OEM slotted" from ECS, pads are Porterfield R4-S. All are well within tolerances. I know it's not an out-of-balance wheel, because wheels were swapped front to back not too long ago and there was no change.
So what else ought I check out? Tie rods/ends? Ball joints? I don't know all that much about this aspect of stuff..
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Car: 2013 golf r.
Mods: stage 2, spm downpipe, stock catback, stock intake, dxd stage 2 clutch.
All of a sudden I am getting 17mpg in the city and 22-24 on the highway. Checked fuel trims and they are within 5%. I checked just the 032.
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So... I bought Ksport Coilovers and had them installed about a month ago. Were on the car about a week and started to get creaking noises from the front. So, I contacted BSH (who sold them) who put me in contact with the Director of Operations for Ksport...
Send them to him, and he replies that he thinks my sway bar is high, and that it should be "parallel with the ground. Today when backing up (down right) I get a horrible scraping grinding sound. I stop, get out (thinking it is the fender liner) only to find no damage. So I keep checking and find a fresh scrape on the axle. I drive (gingerly) home and pull the wheels off and check everything in the front. It is all tight and nothing seems to be broken. I look at the sway bar end (which is curved).
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Back in may, the ac started having a horrible smell for the first few minutes while on. It smells like crayons gone bad. I heard about this before but either i suck at researching ( probably this) or i am the only one with this problem (I am sure I am not).
Well, today on my way back from work my i tried to tun on my ac and nothing.. the fan on the radiator works, but the blower doesn't. Researching again, i found something about the resistors on the blower going bad. However, most of the people posting about it didnt have climatronic like we do. Is it the same for us?
Which fuses and relays are related to the ac?
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Both sides do it on turns and I notice it only when it is wet? It seems to be coming out of the tires...Pirelli P Zero Neros
Car has 3800 miles on it.
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I have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
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The car has begun making a horrible clanking sound when going over small bumps. It sounds like it did when the control arm bushings were bad on my old mkIV. There are less than 5kmi on the car, so I can't imagine any mounts are worn out. It's still under warranty, so I know that it's just a dealer visit, but I'm wondering anyway. It sounds like crap.
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Just bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
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I bought a used 2010 GTI with 37k on it. I am loving the ride, more than I even anticipated. It has the DSG, and I enjoy the multitude of ways I can choose to drive this vehicle.
I do have one issue of concern that I would like some feed back on. Occasionally, when driving hard, the car makes a horrible shudder and doesn't accelerate. It's almost as if the vehicle misses a shift and is governing itself quickly and harshly. I haven't had enough concentration to check RPM's when it does it.
It feels horrible, scares me and makes me wonder what I'm doing, what I need to get checked, or if this is something others have experienced.
Pic for good measure.
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It took me a while to realize it, but my Phaeton vibrates as it rolls. My wife and friend only noticed it when I called their attention to it, but I've come to pick up on it every time I drive the car, as shortly as a few blocks away from home, from about 30 MPH and upwards.
How do I know? Well, we have two other cars, including a Touareg and a smart, and those two sure do not vibrate the way the Phaeton does! My wife and I just pick up whatever car, so I am likely to drive two or three cars on any given week. I've tried to ignore it, but to me, every time I pick up the Phaeton, it is very bothersome to me.
I've put new tires on the car, had them "force balanced", the computer scores came out great, and the alignment technician at the VW dealership said he can't feel the car vibrate while we rode together. The rims are good and straight. But it clearly does vibrate.
By the way, the front suspension shudders very un-German-like in potholes. I speculate it is related. But I am dreading taking the car to the VW dealer service technician and have him come back that the car is fine.
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I have a 99 Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2L OHV engine, and I've been dealing with vibration when braking, especially at highway speeds. I just had it in for service and my mechanic replaced a warped front rotor and said that was the problem. It's better now than it was, but I'm still getting some vibration.
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Yesterday when I was on my way to a funeral, I noticed that whenever I braked kind of hard there would be a lot of noise and vibration on my car. The noise seemed to be coming from the front passenger side of the car and seemed to pull to the right a bit. I pulled over and took a look and everything looked fine but the sound and vibration was still there.
I drove about 10-15 minutes tops like this, parked the car, did the funeral home service, and 2 hours later while driving to the burial site (about 20 minute drive on the streets and freeway), everything felt fine. No vibration, no noise, nothing.
After the burial site I drove another 15 minutes to my parents house but this time you could hear the sound faintly and only when I braked hard. I jacked up the car and took off all the tires to take a look at the brakes/rotors and everything looked ok. I had plenty of pad left and the rotors seemed fine. With the tires on, I am able to spin the tires with my hands no problem.
This morning I drove to work and had no issues at all. No sound, no vibration, nothing. So at this point, I am stumped at what could have caused the noise and vibration earlier yesterday morning.
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My 03 Passat is going in for 40k service this week. I think they're going to tell me I need new brakes and rotors (felt some pretty heavy vibration during braking in the Tennessee hills). I was thinking of changing the front brakes myself. My mechanical abilities are modest, but I've done the brakes on my 94 Ford Ranger before.
1. Is this an easy task?
2. What parts will be needed?
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Noticing excessive vibration when braking after 50-60 mph speeds.
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