Golf VI R :: Hill Assist Won't Disengage / Brakes Off
Jan 29, 2013
I've had this problem a couple times now. I start the car in the garage, take the parking brake off and try to move forward. Car does not move, but inches forward like I still have had the parking brake on. I double check, it's off. And to state the obvious, I do not have my foot on the brake.
I think maybe it's hill assist, though my garage barely has an incline that probably wouldn't trigger hill assist. I try to put it in different gears and attempt to accelerate in reverse, same thing.
So, that leads me to believe, are my brakes stuck? I steadily accelerate and the car finally budges. I hear a loud "POP-TWANG!!" under the car like I just popped the parking brake. The car lurches forward and I drive out of the garage normally.
I don't hear or see any other performance issues after this under normal city driving. This was after the car was not used and was in the garage overnight or longer. I did drive a few hundred miles the day before but not under significant load or stress on the car.
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When I first picked up my golf r I started doing some vagcom mods and one of them was changing the hill hold setting to low rpm as I'm still learning to drive manual and it would work a bit on hills.
As far as I know there is 3 options in the adaptation channel under abs brakes and hill hold
1. Normal
2. Low rpms
3. High rpms
I changed it to low rpms and I have in fact noticed the assist on some slight and bigger hills. Today i changed it back to normal and when on some hills it didn't seem like the car was holding, or maybe hill wasn't big enough.
Is there something special that needs to be done? From what I remember when on a hill and on the brake, after letting go of it, the car would hold for like 2 seconds. Doesn't happen with normal mode.
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I have a Prius V that is giving me fits with the Hill Assist. First of all it comes on when I park on a surface that is NOT a hill. I know that depressing the brake pedal too hard can make it come on. But then what do you do to turn it off and start the car moving?
The Hill Assist light comes on, the big P light comes on also and everything freezes. I have to repeatedly turn the car off, press the brakes, apply and release the parking brake, etc. I haven't found out what exactly I need to do to turn off the Hill Assist.
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It sucks when you're backing up a hill to hitch up a trailer and the hill assist is working....you give it light throttle and it doesn't want to move right away....then it lurches back when it finally releases. Is there a way to shut it off?
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So the other day I was rotating my tires in my driveway, Once I was finished I took it for a test drive and about 2 minutes into the drive the traction control light (yellow light upper left hand corner) came on and has been on ever since. I haven't noticed anything else different while driving except the light remains on and that the "hill start assist" isn't working so I assume the traction control isn't working. I have tried pulling a code with a scan gauge but no codes where present and I also tried to reseting the battery by unplugging the ground cable for 10 minutes but no luck.
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I checked the owners manual and didn't see anything. I've noticed that when I stop on a hill and let off the brakes the car doesn't roll back. Its holding the brakes for me on an incline, I am assuming its normal, but kinda surprised I didn,t see anything in the owners manual or on the window sticker about it
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I own a 2012 F350 dually King Ranch with 6,600 miles on it as of today. I noticed that on slight inclines, I can see and feel the hill start assist feature activating and working as before. I was not towing anything today. Starting today though, I hear this loud creaking noise both in forward and reverse directions with quite a bit of shutter from front of the truck lasting one to two seconds as I transition from the brake to accelerator. I checked the front hubs to make sure that they are not in locked position. I tried activating 4WD auto mode, then deactivate it to 2WD mode as I watched the diagram/figure on the dashboard. Nothing would make the loud creaking noise and shutter go away. Is there anything else I can try, or should I take it back to my Ford dealer again (now for another different reason. I had problem with injector #8 failure with CEL come on earlier this week which appears to be fixed for now)???
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The other day I start my car in the garage. Backing out I know the brakes aren’t working normally. Testing in the driveway confirms that there is no power assist to the brakes. The engine is idling properly and there is no CEL or dash brake light lit, but there is non-power braking only. So I put the car back planning to work on it later.
Some two days later I start the car for testing and the brakes are back to normal. I have the usual power assist. There are no other problems.
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I have just recently bought a 2006 prius (T Spirit model in the UK) with 46k miles on the clock.
Anyway i took it into a local garage today for its full service, as part of the process they disassembled the brakes to inspect them. unfortunately when they put it all back together, all the brake related lights have come on (VSC, ABS, anti skid, handbrake) and despite the mechanics efforts to reset them, could not turn them off. When the car is turned off the brake pedal now feels loose and makes a funny twang noise as if it has come off its spring. there are also dull noises coming from the brakes when i am driving the car and turn the steering wheel full lock to the right or left.
What has really annoyed and scared me is that when i now drive the car and brake, on releasing the brake pedal i get the feeling the brakes do not disengage immediately, instead there is some lag with the brakes disengaging a second after i have removed my foot from the brake pedal and makes the car jerk a little before coming to a stop. the car also feels sluggish to drive and on the drive back home only managed to achieve 45 mpg (heart breaking!). the mechanic has promised to take a look at the car next tuesday (we have a long public holiday this weekend so most stores will be closed) leaving me to suffer 4 days of anxiety and non use of my car.
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Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
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The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
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Same car I posted about a couple of days ago. It was running fine. My son was driving on the freeway, and tapped the brakes to disengage the cruise control, and the transmission just stopped working. It was not in gear after doing this and the transmission would not engage. It was nothing like a slipping transmission. The engine just revs with no resistance.
Got it towed home and checked the codes: P1529, generic 'Check Engine' light from the TCU; P0760 Transmission solenoid C and P0765 Transmission solenoid D. I have googled these codes individually, but not sure how they tie together.
Oh, I overfilled the transmission. Probably a quart too much because I didn't know how much extra I needed for the torque converter. I doubt this is the issue, but I will drain the excess. Where to check next?
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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I should have gotten a stick but I preferred an auto for the hills of SF. I was able to get the plastic gear cover off and use the manual override to get in gear. Reading around it seems like there could be some relay (brake or e-brake) that is not working, but couldn't figure out where that would be.
I'm still under warranty (28k mi) so going to take it to the dealer to fix. After I drove it back home ~50mi it looks like the problem fixed itself.
PS- when I parked I was on flat ground, steering column/wheel was not locked and I had my foot on the brake, park would still not disengage.
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I have an 02' 2.0 Jetta Wagon, and the A/C is having some issues. Since I know close to nothing about A/C systems, I took it in to a few places to have it looked at. I've had the whole system Evac'd and recharged, and have had the low pressure fitting replaced (apparently there was a slight leak there), and the system is still not working.
The A/C worked fine when I first purchased the car a few months ago. Shortly after my 800 mile trek from Oregon, back to home, the A/C started to only work intermittently. The compressor would engage, then disengage, repeat...It seemed like a bad idea to keep trying to use it in its sad state so I stopped using it altogether. As I said, I had the system emptied and recharged, but it still only works intermittently. It sort of follows a pattern where upon start up it works longer, and switches on and off at shorter intervals, until it doesn't engage at all.
There are no strange noises from the compressor, and when it was hooked up to the machine, it proved to be performing its function well.
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Clutch for the AC Compressor will not disengage even with the AC off. The only way I can daily the car is if I disconnect the power from the AC Compressor at the compressor itself. Seems the AC compressor has a constant draw if it is plugged in.
Plugged = dead battery...
Unplugged = good battery...
I'm getting ready to rip the damn thing off the engine and calling it a day, but that would defeat the purpose of me buying a new compressor.
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My girl just purchased a 2012 GTI and noticed her brake assist is not active when at a complete stop. I have a 2011 GTI and my brake assist is active when releasing the brake and starting off in first gear. How I can activate this for her as she is still new at driving manual?
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Is it possible to increase the steering boost, so that the wheel is easier to turn -- like with VAG-COM? I'm not a big fan of the heavy steering.
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I don't really know how to describe the sound but whenever I stop and set the parking brake, the car makes a funny noise that kinda sounds like wobbling. It does this when I disengage it before I take off again as well. What causes this?
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My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
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2010 Manual GTI (still barely under warranty)
I swapped to my winter wheels on Sunday, then the car sat garaged for two and half days. Went to start it this morning and just got a fast clicking, then the power steering light came on and went from yellow to red. Tried a couple of times and then it seems like the car lost power; clock reset, trip odometer reset, etc.
I'm going to check the fuses, but what the problem might be? I'd like to go to work today and in the weather we're having there's no way VW is sending a tow truck today.
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