Golf VI R :: Getting Warmer Air Out Of The Vents - Is This Normal
Mar 3, 2013
I noticed last night when it's about 64F outside the air coming out of vent feels much warmer, this is with climatronic temp set to LO, re-circulate off and AC off. I've never seen this with my previous cars and I am wondering is this normal? I've tried Google this without much success ..
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2 days ago I noticed a large puddle on the driveway when I left for work, but I thought it was just condensation from my A/C. That afternoon- 84 degrees outside- my A/C was blowing warmer than normal, even at Max Cold, so then I thought it might have been freon on the driveway and that I'd need to get checked for a leak and replace the freon. But the car wasn't overheated and the next day (in the mid-80s), the A/C worked normally in the morning and afternoon...
Then, this afternoon- 90 degrees outside- it wouldn't work at all. I've eliminated the compressor as the issue (turned on my car, let it go through its start-up cycles, then turned the A/C on high and Max Cold, popped the hood and listened for the buzzing)- it continuously whirs and responds to the changes I make on the A/C settings.
I think the blower motor died, since no air flows at any of the speeds from any of the air vents though I can hear the A/C is on... So my question(s) for you all... does it sound like I'm on the right track? Is there another potential problem it could be that I should be aware of before I take it in to the dealer for a diagnosis? Like a fuse I need to check? Btw, I have a 2007 with 141K miles on it...
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Yesterday afternoon when driving back home from a weekend trip I noticed something that I never experienced before. I was climbing a long hill with 4 passengers, the A/C on and the engine under full throttle reaching 5k-6k before shifting from 3rd to 4th, I noticed the air coming out of the vents would get momentarily a bit warmer during this intense acceleration period and then once the revs would drop it would get cold as usual.
Is this the normal behavior of the A/C compressor? Does it get shut momentarily under heavy accel by the ECM? Or is it faulty and it requires a change. My Santa is pretty much new, it's a 2012 model with only 2000km!
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Just started experiencing an AC problem. First started with diminished cooling and airflow. Checked the filter and it was dirty, so replaced it. Airflow is completely restored however the air from the drivers side vents is significantly warmer than the passenger side vents.
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I just replaced the vacuum motor that opens and closes the Max Air door as it's diaphram was ruptured. Now it is working correctly, however when I go from normal to max the volume of air coming out the vents doesn't seem to increase. The door hasn't been working for about a year and I didn't realize why. Should the volume increase going to Max or just the air get colder from recirculating? In my Dodge the volume increases consderably. Could there be trash (leaves, things dropped through the defrost vents) partly blocking the air through the evaporator? How do I access to check and clean out? Remove the blower motor?
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Cab with climate control. The last three years when the temp exceeds about 85 degrees outside it acts up. It will switch from the AC vents to defrost and blow normal air through, not ac cold. Then it will switch back, when doing so I can hear the internal deflector shudder. It will do this every few minutes. It is extremely annoying. All other times of the year it works fine. My local dealer had the truck last year, but could not find anything wrong. I have used the search and also Googled and while I find similar problems nothing exactly the same.
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The air conditioner in my 2001 Prius starts out blowing nice COLD air, but after about 45-minutes to an hour, it gradually gets warmer and warmer, until there is practically no cooling effect. This happens every day. Day after day. My evening commute home from work is about an hour, so the air conditioning starts out perfectly, but by the time I get home, it's just recirculating the cabin air.
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My driver side window problem escalates as it gets warmer within the cabin. I have replaced, and have been told that my window regulator and motor and clips are fine but NOW it is the main control switch/box that is connected to all window buttons within the driverside door itself. I was shown, that it is a black box that has the widow switched connected to it and my best chance is to replace it so the driver side window, the only window that does not go down, will work again.
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My driver seat warmer works great but the passenger isn't working. There is no damage to the seat so I am wondering if there is a fuse or something else that can cause this other than a bad warmer? How do i test it?
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It is a 2005 E-150 van 5.4 with dual air. The problem is it only makes 62-65 degree air at idle. Going down the road it makes 38-42 degree air. I checked pressures At idle he gauges say the low is to high and high is to low bring it up to 1500-2000 rpm and pressures are where they should be. I think the compressor is suspect. I had this exact problem with a Ford 500 and fixed it by changing the RCV . I get the feeling that this compressor doesn't have an RCV. If it was a lack of air flow I would think the high side would be to high.
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I am 2nd owner of 98 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer V6SOHC. Vehicle is almost showroom condition w/ 70,000 miles and properly maintained.
Problem: engine seems to stumble quite frequently and is most noticeable when ambient temp is above 60*. Highway speeds , 40MPH doesn't matter. RPMS drop but it has completely shut down only twice in the last 9 months.
There are no codes. Plugs and wires changed several months ago, fuel pressure checked by Ford and it's ok, injectors cleaned at dealer, MAF seems ok so I am at a loss. Since there are no codes diagnostics don't work. Except for the issue above, this is a very nice reliable vehicle.
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I have a 2009 Tiguan. The passenger side seat warmer does not work. The driver side seat warmer works, and apparently adequately.
I know, using the multimeter, that the connection between the control module (under the driver seat) and the harness on the passenger seat is intact. However, I cannot detect any voltage coming from the control module to the passenger seat.
Looking for a wiring diagram showing the 8-pin configuration of the control module and the respective plug? I want to see if there is current coming from the seat warmer switch, but there seems to be two same-colored wires (likely representing the left and right [driver and passenger] circuit) and before I start poking around with the multimeter, I want to be sure what is what.
Also, I assume the seat warmer has a thermostat. Any guidance about determining the correct resistance?
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Since the weather has warmed up, I have been experiencing an odd issue. After I drive my car for a little while I will let it sit and go to class for example. Whenever I get back into my car and start it, It will bog for a second and then resume to normal idle. It has happened multiple times with no check engine light. I will try to get a video tomorrow.
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I think I'm getting the hang of this car after 3 months. My mileage has been steadily increasing as the weather has gotten warmer and as I've adjusted my driving a bit. If I drive fairly normally i get about 55 mpg (HSI, ~52 mpg actual). If I'm more careful I get closer to 60 mpg HSI. If I'm really careful I get over 60. My last tank was 61.8 (HSI), and 59.6 mpg from the fillup (see attached). I put 10.13 gallons in the car for 604 miles. I call that 60 mpg, and I'm pretty pleased. This is for a week of normal commuting which includes lots of hills, about 1/3 surface streets, 1/3 state highway, and 1/3 interstates with occasional stop-and-go. It is pretty hot here these days so the AC runs constantly. I have only seen my mileage get better with time so I haven't seen it roll over as the weather has gotten really hot, but that may be that any affect is counteracted by my learning to drive this car.
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I am trying to remove the front seat warmer switch. Been trying but no luck.
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I've got an 04' accord and within the last couple weeks it started blowing warmer air but now it's hot. I've called around for a few prices to see about getting the freon replaced and everyone I've called is concerned there's a leak. We'll I've had the for 10 years doesn't the freon just run out eventually and you need to fill it up again? Am I getting scammed if I take it some place and they do a diagnostic that might be a hundred bucks just to look at it?
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Under normal driving how loud is the exhaust inside the car with the windows up and the radio on? I know the exhaust is loud as all the reviews say and i know there are videos on youtube of the exhaust but its always either with the windows down or windows up and radio off. I just want to know how much louder than stock it is just cruising with windows up and radio on if i want some sort of quiet.
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I've been having this problem for a few weeks now and its getting real bad. When I'm driving along at normal speeds my car will cut off on its own. Also when I'm slowing down the car will jump up 5-600 rpms and at utter and shake a lot and every other time it'll cut off. I've replaced the maf and nothings changed. I'm really hoping it doesn't have to do with the transmission. The car has 241k on it .
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I have a 2000 jetta 2.0. In 5th gear im turning 2900 rpm is this normal?i find it high....
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What tire pressure are you running on your 08 R32? The door jam label says 39psi, but that just gives this car a bone jarring ride. Can I get away with 34-35psi?
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Today my a/c stopped working, it just blow normal temperature air not cooling, never had a bad experience with it before, I even use it not on the lowest set up, always on 19 Celsius. It was working fine when i arrived at work, 10 minutes later My boss told me to pick something up and when I turned the a/c on it Never worked.... Is this normal?
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