My fuel door is starting to crack at the connection to the hinge? It looks like from the assembly drawing that I'll have to remove the wheel and the wheel well liner to get to it but the drawing is not super clear.
View 1 RepliesWe, just today I went to fill up the 2006 prius and noticed the fuel door hinge broke. The only thing keeping the door on is the plastic fuel cap cable.
View 18 RepliesReplacing the top door hinge on a mk4 r32 if so what size spline is it?? also has to remove the hinge pin?? was this a easy enough job if so whats the procedure.
View 3 RepliesGot a 03 GTI VR6 and my drivers door kept on making this creaking/popping noise(it is very similar to the creaking noise of a old wooden door or the sound you hear in horror movies but for a lot shorter duration). The sound seems to come up when I accelerate, break take off from a complete stop. I took the car into the dealership and they torqed some bolt on the hinge and the creaking went away. Not a month later the passenger door develops the same creaking. The dealer tries to torqe the bolt on the hinge again and they say it cant be done and that their body shop needs to replace the hinge. They paint a hinge for me and put it on but don't get the door adjustments right so I get a lot of wind noise. Finally they adjust the door right and all is well.
A while later the drivers door starts creaking again! I went to another dealership and did an oil change while I was away on a trip to Toronto and the service technician said he could lubricate the door gasket and that this will take the creaking away. So he did. Now granted that has taken the creaking away but after some rain and 2 car washes the creaking came back in full swing.
I call the dealership to set up an appointment and they refuse to look at the door saying that as far as they are concerned the vehicle is up to manufacturers specs and that they will need to get a VW rep to look at it. In the mean time I call the vw customer care which tells me that they contacted the dealer and that the dealer beleves that the car is up to manufacturers specifications and that the noise I am hearing is normal and that all the cars have this noise.
Now I owned an 02 Golf GL 2dr and never heard that sound. It's been a month and a half and neither the dealer or vw customer care have called to inform me when the VW area rep. will be coming to have a look at the issue. It looks like I hit a dead end with having my issue acknowledged and looked at. Is this really a standard noise on the mk4 2dr platforms ? How I should pursue this issue ?!? Anything ?!
I got pics, will upload as soon as I'm off work. But anyways, there's a small rust spot on the drivers side hinge, as well as a small spot on the passenger side rear door hinge. It seems rather hard for me to believe considering I'm the guy who periodically washes their car, and waxes all the door jambs and under the hood.
View 1 RepliesMy son noticed the other day that his 2008 Accent hesitates or seems to hesitate when the A/C is on. We have driven it without the A/C on and the car drives like always, no hesitation feeling.
When the A/C is on it seems like it looses power for a split second. I have driven it too and it seems like when the A/C comes on. We have had this car since new and just gave it to him for college transportation so I know this is not normal.
Did notice that the belts are starting to crack and will replace these next weekend but don't think that is it. Not sure if the A/C compressor is starting to go or something else.
Randomly my driver side door hinge squeaks....
View 6 RepliesI need to do the doors on my work van..Is there a hinge pin kit that works?
View 4 RepliesReplacing the hinge pin and bushings on the barn door hinges? My drivers side upper hinge pin has completely sheared in two. I took it to the body shop today for replacement and they could not fix it. I think it was more labor intensive than they had imagined.
Anyway, they say I have to replace both the door side and the truck side hinge which are both welded on despite the bolts on the truck side. I found a site that retrofits the front door hinges and they have a special tool to press the old hinge pin out. Is this possible to press out the hinge, or should I try to drill them out?
Our 2010 base model GX 460 was 'born' in November 2009 and purchased new in February 2010, but we never used the 120 VAC power outlet at the back of the cargo compartment by the rear door hinge. I was cleaning and swapping 'summer' floor mats for 'winter' mats and decided to see if the outlet works. The appended pictures prove it does produce 120 VAC .... actually, almost 124 VAC, but I have no way to test if it can supply 100 Watts, much less the waveform shape. Perhaps it could light a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, but nothing sensitive to supply line glitches!
View 2 Replies2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
I noticed earlier this afternoon that when I opened my front passenger door to reach in and get my phone out, the hinge creaked/squeaked. Everytime I would open/close the door it would make the sound. This door has only been opened about 5 times since I bought the car on April 30th. I have never heard tell of this on a new car, so it is disappointing. Had I had a passenger in the car and they heard that, well it would have been a little embarrassing on a brand new car. It sounded like a 30 year old car that had never had its door hinges oiled. It may just need some grease or something, but I would think this should have been lubed properly during assembly.
View 7 RepliesHave had a persistent squeak in my passenger front door since buying it used 9 months sgo. Tried WD40, even have had dealer install 2 new hinges.. but still have the loud squeak (starts about 1/2 way opening the door).
View 6 RepliesAny time I open or close the driver side door, hearing some noise from the door hinge.
View 1 RepliesAfter the years and 300k miles, the door hinge on the driver side door are getting some play. I wonder if i can replace just the pin on this hinge or the whole thing needs to be replaced. By the way, I am talking about a 00' F450 ...
View 2 RepliesWe have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
View 5 RepliesDue to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
So the switch for my fuel door has not been working for a while. I can still manually open it by reaching through the liner in the truck, but it has started to get on my nerves recently. I tried changing out the switch and that didn't seem to work, it was a switch from the junk yard but I tried 2 different ones and neither worked. It might be the fuel door actuator?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T ....
My '03 driver's side door has been opened enough, and unfortunately with force when it catches a wind gust or opens downhill, etc, that it's actually resulted in a lengthening crack in the middle of the inside door panel. There are two hinges that are fine, which actually keep the door attached to the car frame.
In between, on the higher side of the inside of the door, there's a 'stopper' bolted to the door, with a bracket 'inside' the door. That's where the force of the door opening is applied to the door itself, and where the crack has appeared. It's already a good 4-6 inches long, and presumably will keep going.
In my head, the options seem to be:
-wait for the stopper to fully rip a piece of the door off, at which point the door will open all the way into the car itself.
-attempt a small scale weld 'in place' with a small overlay strip across the crack.
-pull the door all the way apart to where the welder felt more comfortable doing a solid repair job.
-find a replacement door altogether.