Golf VI R :: Fuel Cut Off Under Load?
Oct 19, 2013
About three weeks ago while accelerating in 2nd gear my car got a jolt. Then it happened again, then once more. Then I was able to reproduce it while watching RPMs- it happened around 4.5K. Now it happens almost every time when I floor it for 3-4 seconds in 2nd or 3rd. Did some runs with VCDS today and determined that both low fuel pressure (which sits around 5 bar at idle) and rail pressure (which sits around 50 bar at idle) drop sharply when this jolt happens. Low pressure stays in the 5-6 range then dips below 3 bar range. Rail pressure goes way up while accelerating and then there is sudden vertical drop on the chart while the car is in still in boost.
Fuel system is stock except for the fuel filter/pressure regulator which I swapped recently. The new filter is 6.6 bar just like the original was, and it came from the dealer. The prevailing thought is that my lift pump has reached end of its life.
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I am a newbie as far as fuel injection. The original issue the truck had was no fuel. I tracked down the issues to a blown fuel pump relay and a melted inertia switch. I jumped the inertia wires with a new fuel pump relay installed and the truck ran at an idle and up to 3500 RPM when stationary. If the truck is going up a grade or needs more throttle it will start to lose fuel pressure and end up stalling. I had the fuel pressure gauge connected to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and had 30-35 PSI when idling. It runs good under light load on the throttle.
Under heavy load it starts to drop quickly and if you back off the throttle it will stay running some times. I changed the fuel filter and also replaced the high pressure pump on the main frame and it still has the same problems.The original pump was pumping about 13 ounces of fuel in the 20 second test that the repair manual suggested. I have even placed a jumper wire direct to the new fuel pump to bypass original wiring and possible problems. When it stalls under load (No Fuel pressure) at the schrader valve you can hear the fuel pump running but there is no fuel pressure.
If I turn off the ignition for a few minutes and then turn the key back to the on position it will start to pressurize and then start and run at an idle. I even replace the ignition switch as it was a little temperamental. I have not changed or checked the fuel pressure regulator as it is a pain to get to at the back of the engine. I do not want to spend a fortune tracking down this problem since the truck may not even pass its smog inspection and may be a parts truck only.
67 F-250 4x4
73 Crew 4x2 (4x4 Soon)
89 F-250 Super Cab 4x4
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My 88 F150 (300 six, 5 speed, dual tanks, 176,000 miles). The truck has the low pressure fuel pumps in the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame rail setup. Truck starts fine, but cuts out severely under acceleration for the first 30 seconds of driving. After that I only notice the problem when applying a lot of throttle (does not cut out under gradual acceleration) or climbing steeper hills. If I kill it for a few minutes and then take off again the problem is back for the first 30 seconds or so. I have replaced all the tune-up type stuff (all filters, plugs & wires, dist. cap & rotor, ignition coil, o2 sensor, cleaned throttle body, replaced IAC valve, numerous sensors). Timing is dead on at 10 deg. BTDC with SPOUT unplugged. My FPR was bad so I also replaced that. Condition exists regardless of which fuel tank I am using (no problems with tank selector).
Getting no KOEO codes, but getting KOER code 41 and plugs do seem to show a lean condition possibly. I'm still averaging around 16 MPG since this became a real problem about 3 months ago.
I removed the bowl from the reservoir between the tanks and the high pressure pump on the frame. No filter in there, but it was clean with no gunk or sediment found. I removed the line from the inlet side of the high pressure pump and found that while cranking the engine I have fuel flowing freely (same amount of flow regardless of which tank I've switched to). The flow was steady, but not extremely strong. If I understand right the in-tank pumps are not designed to provide much pressure? Below is what I found at the schrader valve:
key on, engine off - high pressure pumps runs for about 1 second, brings gauge up to 48 psi
idle, FPR connected - 40 psi
idle FPR disconnected - 52 psi
revving throttle with FPR connected - 46 psi maximum
Connector, where fuel pump relay plugs in, seems to be clean and not corroded at all.
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2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
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2003 Jetta 1.8T (Manual Transmission)
It does this while driving. Seems like when the car is under load or lots of gas driving there is no sound, but when less gas pedal like coasting it makes this sound.
Car has leaking turbo seal. And bad catalytic converter.
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So, in the last month or so I have been having trouble getting the car to go into second gear when mashing the go pedal. I have to try several times and seems to be that the car has to unload and then it will shift.
I am using the DG shifter and have been for 30k+ miles and I have the red HPA dogbone insert. The shift has not been a problem up until the last month or two.
Is it time for motor mounts?
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I have some vibration issues with my car and i think it can be related to my left frontaxle, as i saw it was leaking a little under inspection. The vibration is not there when just rolling, it happens only when i give it a little load, like in high gears and low speed and light throttle and is gone when leaving off throttle. The vibration is felt in the steering wheel and in whole car. The strange with all this is that some days there is nothing and some days it is there constant, it seems to change with the weather, if its colder outside, can it still be the axle? I have contacted raxles 2-3 times without any response so my solution is to buy a oem axle for high $$ and see if the problem will be solved.
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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Under load, the car shimmies back and forth. Left to right. But only under load. It will even do it in 5th gear at 1500 rpm. The problem goes away when foot off the gas, or in neutral.
Already did a drivers side axle, passenger side axle, and dog bone mount.
I removed the intake to inspect the transmission mount and this is what I found below. Should it be able to wiggle this much? I imagine the mount is original to the car. Which has 156,000 on it currently.
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I've got the the alternator workshop on my screen and the battery light, again. I've replaced the battery (it was bad) and it drove fine for about 15 min then it came back again. Now it comes back under load (accelerating, revving). The car starts fine now but after a lil but of driving, the car idles high (1k rpm) instead of the 500-700 rpm. I turn the car off and it will go back to the normal idle. I've obviously read about a poss bad alternator but I've read about loose alternator belts. Fixing this issue with tightening the belt or has everyone just replaced the alternator?
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Well I have a loud clicking noise, mostly when the car is under load (pulling out, braking) at low speeds. First I thought it was the RSB but now it sounds like it's coming from the front of the car. I'm thinking it could be either motor mounts or tie rod. The car has 37K miles. I just can't seem to pinpoint where the noise is coming from yet.
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I'm getting misfiring after the engine is hot, but it only shows up under certain load. For example, if I'm in 3rd gear at about 2500 rpm and I give it some amount of throttle, it wont misfire at all but if I give it just a hair more (maybe past 50% or so), it will start misfiring badly and the blinking CEL comes on. The codes it's triggering are misfire on cyl 1 and multiple misfire.
I replaced the coilpack about 6 months ago, that's why I'm hoping for some feedback before I drop a few hundred dollars on another one. I had the plugs out very recently and they look fine. The shape of the wires are difficult to get multimeter probes on so I haven't checked them.
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I bought a cheap golf in february. It's an akl engine (1.6sr). Everything was fine on the way home. The car then wasn't used for like a month or two, and was stored outside. When we started using the car it gradually got more and more stuttering. At first it was just a slight stutter when accelerating, but now it's horrible. It will stutter and hesitate like crazy when accelerating or under load, but will cruise just fine at normal rpms. So far I have changed the air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs and a bad spark plug wire, but nothing has worked. I bought a vag scanner but couldn't find any codes. The idle isn't too bad but not perfect. What the problem can be?
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I've been noticing over the past few weeks that in the 1,5-3k RPM range, usually more under load (e.g. going up a hill, in traffic) that the turbo sounds like its venting boost more/earlier. It's normal acceleration too, not WOT!
Now, I might not have recognized normally, but my girlfriend's MKIV 1,8t just exhibited the same sound (more noticeable), and it turned out to be the hose to the "pancake pipe"/intercooler came loose. It's kind of the same "hissing" that you would hear if a DV/hooter valve is bad.
I know what the normal "pssst" when taking the foot off the gas should sound like. And that happens at highway speeds and normal acceleration.
So, before I bring it in - is something like this normal on the MKVI 2,0? Is it supposed to be venting to atmosphere during that higher-load acceleration, like going up a hill? Once we got her 1,8t fixed, it doesn't make a sound other than normal turbo pressure release at expected times.
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Ok so lately I noticed a horrific rattling coming from the rear of my car. It happens mostly when I'm in a high gear going slow with a load on the gear. It's sort of like the rattle that comes from the exhaust with the same gear load but it's much looser and rattley sounding, and it doesn't always do it. It almost sounds like a piece of sheet metal in my spare tire well rattling when there's a gear load and the exhaust rattles. But I checked in there and it seems tight.
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I recently installed a 42 DD DP in my 2012 CW Golf R. I have noticed that under high load (mostly down shifts) that something is knocking under the car. It is a single bang sound and only happens under high load. I did the DP install myself and I have since done a quick check to see if the exhaust is loose. It is not. I have checked the Drive shaft and all the bolts are tight. I suspect it is the exhaust hitting something but I don't know what.
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I have decided to purchase a set of Potenza RE760 Sport tires for my GTi.
I don't know the difference between extra load and standard. If I understood correctly extra load will be a bit harsher of a ride and is more performance oriented? What is the best option for my specific car? Running stock 18-inch Austin's btw.
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Installed the wastegate actuator rod rattle clip on their R? I've been getting a buzzing sound under light load in first gear- very audible when it echos off a wall, etc.
[URL] ....
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Alright I drive a 05 1.8t with 68k original miles.. nder a full load my car bogs and hesitates. also my turbo will stop spooling and my boost gauge will go from 10 pounds to about 4 and i will have to let go of the gas and push down again for my turbo to spool.. What this could be I can't figure it out..
Here is my car.....
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I bought a 03 GTI 1.8T. It was hit in the front so it needs a new bumper. The intercooler is smashed to bits. The car will start and idle but as soon as you go to drive into the shop it wants to stall and die out. Will not drive at all. Would the smashed intercooler cause this? No check engine light at all. Car is a 5 speed. All wheels turn free so nothing is keeping it from not rolling.
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Been having a problem where the alt belt squeals on cold start, under heavy load and sometimes at complete random when cruising at a steady speed.
It doesn't change when my air ride compressors kick on so I'm assuming it's not the alternator. The belt and tensioner are now brand new from VW. The car has no AC, so I am using belt #066 145 933 K (21.36x1264mm). Replacing the tensioner and belt made it a little better but it's still doing it.
I'm thinking PS pump because it squeals loudly when I nail the throttle around corners. Sometimes if I'm cruising and it starts doing it a little shake of the steering wheel makes it stop.
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