Golf VI R :: Fuel Cap And Check Engine Light Came On
Jan 2, 2016
I've got a '13 CW Loaded 4DR. Its got just under 40K miles. Tune wise its the STG2+ from I.E., been tuned for maybe 10K miles. I was fueling up and I always tighten the cap correctly as Oregon has Fuel Transfer Technicians, AKA People who don't care whether your fuel cap is on right or not. So soon after the fuel cap light came on, pulled over and tightened it again. Light went away. Next fuel fill up, same thing. Third fuel up, same fuel cap light and then CEL came on.
Ive got VAGcom and checked for codes and got the small leak detected twice and then the large leak detected code. So I was thinking it was just a cap. I swapped gas caps with my brothers MK4 R32 to maybe get lucky and the code returns. Thats impossible for it to fall too, so I dug deeper. I checked the N80 valve as I remember those being an issue on 1.8t and old Flows, So i pinched off the line to it and performed the test again, and bam, no more code for large leak.
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I found a couple of threads on this, but apart from a couple of long sentences with no punctuation, i couldn't find anything conclusive. Last week, a couple of days after i last filled up, i got this:
When i got home i did indeed check the cap and it was tight. So i removed it, wiped the top of the filler neck and replaced it. All was well. Last night i get the same, again a couple of days since my last fill:
So, what gives?
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About a week ago I got the fuel cap light on a steep hill in San Francisco. Next fill up it looked like the cap might have been a little loose. Can't remember exactly. A few days after the first warning I got a solid check engine light. I have 110K miles. I've had the coil packs replaced twice and the check engine light flashed when that was the culprit.
I've driven the car 4-5 times about 5 miles and the light hasn't gone off on it's own. It is a real hassle to take it to the dealer and I don't have much time. So:
1. Will it clear itself of the issue goes away, or must it be cleared at the dealer?
2. Any other V8 04' had the same issue?
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I got one this morning and the thing never went away. and yes, i checked my fuel cap. How to remedy this issue or do I need to take it to the dealers.
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Picked up a new 2012 Prius C a week ago. Check engine light came on. Called Dealership. They said check fuel cap (I had not even used half a tank of gas yet so I did not put fuel in yet) and sure enough it was so loose it almost was off. I tightened it down until it clicked. The question is now....will the check engine light go off on it's own or will I have to take it in to have it re set.
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Just picked up a Toyota certified 2010 Prius III....less than a week later, the check engine light comes on. Took it right back to the dealer...in which they said its the air/fuel sensor. Toyota warranty services was closed, so they need to check tomorrow if its covered by the remaining warranty or not.
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I have a 2010 with 4000. miles on it. Check engine light came on. After reading everything I went and checked my fuel cap and yes it was not on. Now the ce light is still on. What next, do I wait and worry or go to the dealer. ??
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I have a 1997 F-250 7.3 powerstroke diesel with 135,000 miles and an EO4 automatic transmission. The trucks engine light will come on and the fuel pedal will become unresponsive. Until I release the pedal then reapply pressure to it the truck will remain at an idle. Sometimes I can tell it is going to happen as the shifting of the transmission at low speed will be irratic, shifting quickly into third at very low speed and RPM. I also have noticed that the light for the OD on the shift handle will light up at the same time the failure happens. I have a local mechanic that is familiar with the 7.3 engine and he cannot diagnose it unless it is failing in the shop. It only does it while driving, and the failure goes away as soon as I release the pedal.
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I have an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe. Check engine light comes on, fuel gauge goes from empty to full, to half, to 1/4, just all over the place. Even ran out of gas a few times on the side of the road not knowing how much fuel I have.
What exactly causes this problem? I've heard "fuel sender" I've heard "fuel pressure sensor" etc. All are different parts. Need to get this repaired asap.
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I have a 2004 Chev Avalanche. Several times recently my check engine light comes on, the truck dings 3 times at me and a dash script tells me to tighten my fuel cap. I do and the light goes out within a few hours or the next day. I have changed fuel caps twice. This week the light came on, has not gone off and at least 3 time it has told me to tighten the fuel cap which I have done.
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I have had 06 passat with a 2.0 turbo. It been a great car. check engine light has come on with a few codes.
P0171 lean air fuel mixture. P2015, p2008, p0507, p2015, p2008.
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I have a 2007 Sante Fe with the 3.3 engine. Having a problem with the Fuel gauge not reading correctly and a check engine light. The engine code indicated that the problem was with the sending unit in the tank on the "A" side (behind the driver). I checked with Hyundai and with a tech line service and they indicated that it was a common problem and I needed to replace both the "A" & "B" units to correct the problem. I did that and cleared the codes and it set another code indicating that the "B" unit was the source of the code. I pulled the "B" unit again and checked the wiring and the problem still was there. I switched out the units on the "B" side again with the old unit and the problem is still there.
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2004 Sports Trac Got a check engine light: a code P0913. The truck , once in a while, hesitates like it not getting fuel. Is this a fuel pump problem or something else?
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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I have been experiencing some issues with my '06 rio5 (same engine as your hyundais). this forum is way more active than the kia forums, so figured id give it a shot here.
I am experiencing a rough idle at start up while the car is low on fuel (<1/4 tank). it idles rough for a few seconds, the check engine light flashes a bit, and then it runs fine.
The car is an '06 rio5 with approx 19k miles on it, five speed manual. Also, sometimes after refueling and it will just shut off while waiting at an intersection. Not sure whether these two issues are related, but thought i would mention it just in case they were.
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 20k+ miles on it. Purchased it about a week ago & had no issues until about now. About an hour ago, my check engine light came on & air from the driver side right vent started blowing even though the fan is off. What the issue might be? Also, my fuel door constantly pops open by itself. While driving, when I close my doors, and when I close my trunk it always pops open. Is there any way to fix this type of issue?
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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I recently had someone run a scan on my 2008 prius, which just had a check engine light pop up on it.
It came back with the following code: P1118 MANF. CONTROL FUEL AIR METERING
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When I turn the key all the way over, I hear only one click, and no engine sound. Playing with park or neutral positions do nothing. Battery and connections are good. I am getting a raw fuel smell out of the tail pipe after it finally starts. The check engine light intermittently comes on, by now it is mostly on.
My guesses are: fuel pump/relay problems, starter/connection problems.
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