Golf VI R :: Front Tires Rub When Wheel Is Turned After Getting Towed
Feb 19, 2016
I've had the pleasure of getting towed out of my own apartment complex earlier this morning. Parking placard fell off dashboard so it was not visible.
Regardless, I go to pick up my car from the lot. I'm cranking my steering wheel right and before I could even fully pull out of the stall, I hear and feel rubbing coming from the front left fender. I get the same symptoms in the right fender when I crank the wheel fully to the left.
This is the FIRST time I've experienced rubbing. Keep in mind that I'm sitting on h&r sport springs, oems wheels and p zero tires. I profoundly let the manager know my issue and he told me they'll have their mechanic take a look. They obviously took the position of no fault on their end.
I'm not mechanically inclined but I'm wondering if improper or misguided towing instructions could be the culprit here.
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I just did my 20k service and also replaced my stock Continentals with the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus on Friday. Driving to a friends tonight, I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the front left wheel at slow speeds mainly below 25 whether I use the brakes or not. I only have 19,600 miles on the vehicle so I doubt it is the brakes.
I went out to check to make sure they had the tires set to rotate in the correct direction which they do and I noticed it is the only wheel that makes a noise if I push on the tire itself. None of the other tires make noise and it sounds almost like someone is hyperventilating when I pushed on it.
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For the past month or so, I've noticed an unsettled "wobble" of the front end of my 2015 GTI SE PP when backing out of my driveway and turning the steering wheel. It feels like the front end is extra nose-heavy (yes, it's a front wheel drive car- I get it) or like the steering is too boosted and is over steering beyond my inputs. I am now noticing it when I enter a driveway going forward with the front wheels turned.
Tires (the god-awful all-seasons) are at 37psi, alignment should be fine (no potholes, curbs or off-road excursions) on a 4-month old car. No suspension mods yet. I had each side up on jack stands looking for suspension pucks in the front and found none. This is really impacting my enjoyment of the car and what to check. I'll be putting the front up again this weekend to look for any bent suspension pieces or loose parts.
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My 2001 2.4L PT Cruiser has a wump wump in the front right wheel area. I've been telling people about it for months but no one beleives me.I replaced front tires but it didn't work. Everyone thought (thinks) I am nuts. I left dejected and said I would turn up my radio. It didn't work.
Now the wump wump is much louder. It goes with the wheel speed = wheel faster, wump wump faster.Don't hear any groning, no pulling. No noises when I turn. Just a wump wump while driving. What can it be?
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On a front wheel Cadillac (2011) DTS, can I use only two snow tires--installed in the front?? These cars have stablization systems which are profound. I never had a problem with the rear end swinging out in my 2005 Sedan de ville. It looks to me as if the tire dealers just want to sell more tires, as they all suggest 4 snow tires. Aren't the rear tires just "along for the ride?" They have no torque.
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I bought a 2012 Toyota Prius 2 on Jan 28, 2013 (just a little over a month ago). The front tires and steering wheel vibrated at highway speeds (here in NY 65-70mph) and so I took it in, they said it needed wheel balancing and rotation. Fine.
Then I was told to wait it out because of the "snow" and "ice" could be the culprit, fine. Then a week or so later, same problem still, even when it got warmer. Took it back in. This time the wheels were "off balance" again. Hmmm, that's funny. So they did a dynamic or forced balance? I don't know exactly, but it was a step up from "normal" balancing (according to them).
The past couple weeks it hasn't been vibrating nearly as much, but it is coming back again intermittently. Today I was driving home from Watertown, NY to Syracuse. It's about an hour or so drive, and it is a state highway, so it isn't too torn up or potholed. Between 66-70mph the steering wheel vibrates quite bad and RANDOMLY at that. Some roads the car at 70mph feels super smooth others not! And the weirdest part is some of the roads it feels smooth on are bumpy or slightly torn up!
I've looked up all the causes of steering wheel and tire vibrations, and I see that there are about 5-10 potential causes. If I have to take this car in one more time I might just scream.
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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Snap or crack sound emanating from the front end whenever the steering wheel is turned or the suspension unloads/loads?
I've noticed it for awhile now but didn't think too much of it but now that it's warmed up enough for the windows to be down, it's starting to annoy me
I read the TSB a few months back regarding the rubber coupling in the MDPS unit but it seems more like a suspension noise to me.
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My front tires had previously been wearing out a lot faster on the inside. I was told it was due to the front lower control arms, does this sound right? Is it possible and cost effective to just have the bushings rebuilt (replaced) or will i have to buy new control arms. How can I tell what my car actually needs? I just put 4 new tires on the car and am weary of driving it until i get this fixed.
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I recently changed my shocks which lowered the front by half an inch. I have 19*8.5(et 30) wheels with 235/35 at the front. Since then my tires are rubbing the fenders whenever I hit a bump. I'm thinking of rolling up the front fenders.
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Was about three blocks from home when the front of the car started making a horrific metallic scraping sound as the front wheel turned. I mean LOUD. Did a quick look for something stuck in the wheels somewhere but nothing. It's not like a branch stuck in the wheel sound, but scraping a shovel on a steel beam kind of sound. Braking seems to change the makeup of the sound, but did not stop it. Parked it in the garage.
I pulled the left wheel off, looked and looked, and looked. Nothing. Fear and sadness setting in. Everything looked normal....except....a faint line on the rotor very near the inside edge. Got a mirror and looked some more, and there, wedged on the inside edge of the pad's metal part and the rotor, was a rock the size of a bb. At most. Got a small screwdriver and hammer and popped it out. Done. Sheesh.
Seriously it was so loud it was amazing. So store in file folder for future reference if needed.
The line can be felt barely with a fingernail and is half the width of a pencil lead, and goes under the innermost 1/8" of the pad. I'm thinking do I want the dealer to pull and turn it, or is it going to affect my braking at all. Pretty much gonna leave it be I think.
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Today in a parking lot I was going very slowly (like barely moving), turning the car to the right (didn't have the steering wheel pinned but it was just about there), and I heard this faint creaking noise (think rocking chair in an attic) coming from somewhere roughly down near the left front wheel. I can reproduce it by doing the same thing -- going slow and turning hard right. It doesn't do it when I make a sharp left turn. I don't see anything strange in the wheel well that would be rubbing.
Any thoughts? Been going over some rough construction areas lately. Could a pothole have done this?
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Took delivery of car and alignment is way off. Steering wheel is turned left when car is straight. The dealership is trying to charger me for a alignment. Car has 2500 miles on it and came from factory this way.
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My '04 T-Reg will not start/crank. As a result, I cannot get the car into neutral to get it towed. I researched my problem and it could be anything from a new KESSY Module needed to a Steering Column. How do I get the car into neutral so it does not have to be dragged onto the flatbed? I read another thread on this and one thought was there was a white spring loaded switch under the trim near the gear selector. I got the trim off but cannot find the switch or get this damn truck into neutral.
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I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
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Got the new tires the other day (Thursday) from a tire chain store. As I was driving off, I noticed the tire light warning turned on and then moments later, it turned off. I thought maybe it was just that. Today (Saturday) the tire light went on again. Brought the car back to tire store and the service manager checked the pressure, the tires were all low pressure, 29-30 psi instead of 35s. He re-inflated them all but the tire light will not turn off. So next step was he used a scanner tool which he attached close to all the tires.
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89 toyota truck 4x4... A few weeks ago I had my truck in 4wd and was reversing, I stopped and tried to go into first gear. I found that the shifter would not engage, I can move the shifter around 360 degrees with nothing catching. I checked under the shifter boot and thought it may be the bushing that is shot. To feel safer anyway I decided to have a friend tow me to pavement and have AAA tow me into town, as I live 7 miles down a curvy mountain road off grid. As i was being towed out today the truck started spewing black smoke from about where the shifter is underneath the truck. Freaking out, we stopped the tow and i coasted back down the hill into the driveway.
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I've got a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4 with 200,000. So my rear differential leaks a few drops of fluid every time I drive it, looks like it's coming from the pinion seal. I've just been filling it topping it off with fluid.
Anyway, yesterday I got in it and started driving, I noticed a howling noise, and when I turned my rear tires started locking up. It was like that for about 5 miles until I got home, no matter which way you turned the tires would lock up.
I went under and topped off the differential with fluid again, and I pushed my parking brake in and released it. Got back in the truck and drove, and it was fine. What happened? I'm just worried it will happen again if I don't look more into it.
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I just noticed today that my passenger front wheel is sticking out further than my driver side wheel. I did a brief search and had a hard time finding anything.
I've read about shifting the subframe, but that only seems to adjust a few millimeters.
Pics of ball joint issue and difference in wheel tuck:
Notice the shift in the ball joint mounting on the passenger side. The driver side was replaced at the time of alignment.
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My car is a 99.5 Jetta 2.0 5 speed. Recently it had developed a squeak coming from the front right wheel. It speeds up/slows down based on vehicle speed. I jacked up the car to examine and once the wheel was off I checked everything and it appeared fine. Wheel bearing, tierod, and ball joint all replaced a few months ago, and brake pads and rotors replaced a week ago.
With the wheel off I spun rotor and it did still make the noise. That being said it rules out the possibility of anything to do with the wheel or any bushings. Obvious answer would be the brakes but they are brand new and appear fine. Anything missing?
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The noise is really only audible when I start the car after a very long cold start. When I put the car in drive and start off slow (yes, I specifically have to start off slow) the front left wheel has a squeaking noise (WITHOUT brakes applied), and it sounds like something going around the wheel (meaning its not constant, it sounds like something going around in a circle, if you can picture the noise...).
Anyway, there is a groove in the middle of the rotor that goes all the way around. The rotor is not worn down at the top, which would mean I need new rotors, but this grove which is in the middle of the rotor goes all the way around the rotor.
What makes this even more weird is that the noise completely goes away after some driving or if I turn the car on after a recent drive (recent being 1-1.5 hours). [URL].................
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