Golf VI R :: Exhaust Flap - Valve Is Fully Open During Idle And Driving
Jan 15, 2016
I would like to know what code is responsible for the exhaust flap. Seems like it is permanently open. The solenoid in the left rear wheel well works; but valve is fully open during idle and driving.
As much as I love my car sounding like a beast, my house and my passengers are losing sleep and experiencing hearing-loss.
We tried looking for any leads, but came back empty handed from the dealership. I've also reached out to the tuning company, and confirmed that the software itself does not affect the valve controls.
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So I swapped an R motor into my 20th anniversary GTi. It idles fine as soon as I rev it and the idle comes back down it starts breaking up and I get a code for exhaust flap no communication. Of course, there is no communication since I don't have one. Is there a way to code this out or to trick the ECU to make it think its there? As soon as i clear the code the car runs fine, even if I just turn the car off and back on, it runs fine.
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I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.
From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.
What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?
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I have a VE Calais which has not been driven for 2 months now apart from a dead battery the fuel flap wont open (you just push them and it opens when car is unlocked) have opened it slightly and squiterd wd 40 still wont open.
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So once in a while, a full press (either up or down) on the drivers side window button does not cause the window to fully open or close fully as it should... I'm wondering if this is something (a "feature") I'm somehow activating and just don't know it, or what. If I roll the window all the way up (needing the hold the button up until the window is all the way up), it will then behave normally--a full press down, release, and the window will go all the way down. This just started in the last month or so...
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This morning I opened my center console armrest to tuck the iPod cord back in, when I went to lower the armrest it only dropped about 1/5th the total amount it would need to close. I fooled with it for long enough to know If I continue to apply more pressure something is going to break. The movement it has is smooth until the point it abruptly stops. I checked the owners manual with no luck, called the dealer service center which came up empty handed as well.
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I got the known p2015 code about a month ago and the CEL is on. Here is my situation though...I went and had my car tuned for an APR stage 1+ tune with stock hardware, everything was fine. I then upgraded to a catless 3 inch downpipe (ebay on that links up to the stock downpipe) and a short ram intake and decided to go to the 2+ to delete the engine code for not having a cat.
While I was there, the guy tuning my car said on top of the code for not having a cat, there was a code for my intake manifold saying that one of the motors for a flap wasn't working correctly. I left there expecting to see a code but it never came back on. After4-5 months, I had to pass emissions. Obviously you cant pass with the 2+(found that out the hard way) so I had to have it returned to a regular stage 1 with the stock downpipe. Still no sign of a code for the intake manifold.
I passed emissions and then put my downpipe back on, however, I decided to buy the 200 cell cat from 42DD to weld into my downpipe to save me from having to constantly get my car tuned just to pass emissions. After welding in the cat, I still had a CEL. I went to advance auto and it said I had a code p2015 Intake Manifold Runner Sen Sw Ckit Rng/Perf B1.
I went and got my car tuned to the stage 2 for the hi flow cat and the light is still on. My question is, do I need to replace the whole intake manifold or is there a possibility that I could replace just a sensor? I have a 2012. If just replacing the intake manifold will solve this issue, I'll probably just buy [URL] .... and replace it myself (assumable that's what I need ).
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New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
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While pushing the button to open the sunroof, I noticed it does not open fully. It opens about 3/4th of the way and stops but if I press the button again, it'll open the sunroof fully. Is this normal?
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Azera and out of nowhere the moonroof quit working. It is almost closed - only 1/2 inch open - so I can live with it but would like to fix it. My mechanic said that the problem was software that only the dealer could fix. Called my 2 local dealers and they were absolutely clueless.
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So, I bought a 2012 camry se about 2 months ago and as soon as I got it home I noticed a clicking in the drivers side door when I open and close it. There's three clicks before its fully open, I'm thinking that it clicks at every stop point the door has. I know there's some models that have this put it stock so the wind doesn't blow your door shut on you, is this what it is? I tried looking online about it but couldn't really find anything.
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I recently recognized a clicking noise from the passenger door when I open it half way or even fully.
up to now I'm still assuming its a lubing issue as it is really cold in here Ottawa, Canada.
I have read a thread that was talking about the same issue and the guy found that there was a bolt wasn't tighten enough from the factory that caused the clicking sound.
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I just got my R last Monday and have noticed a weird rattle coming from the exhaust. It only happens when I am driving. I can rev the engine when parked and the car sounds great. The rattle seems to happen when the car shifts and seems to happen less often if I've been driving for a little while. I did take it to VW they put it on a lift and checked everything underneath. I was told it might just go away but if not to come back and they will further check it out. What it might be?
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Some background, my truck has been sitting in the garage for a good month and I haven't started it. Been putting in 6 days a week for over 2 months at work, 60+ hour weeks. Today, I start the truck, it immediately dies. Successive attempts same result, blue smoke out the exhaust. I kept it running by revving it up but then it dies again. It's the original battery, 5+ years old now. MM shows 12v at rest, drops while cranking. I put the charger on the battery for a bit while I came inside to ask this, it's on trickle 2A and its at a 7 on the dial, and it goes to zero when fully charged.
I've been thinking I'll need to replace the battery before winter, but I'm hoping it's just that since its discharged that's why it won't stay running? Any thoughts? I have had zero issues with this truck but having a company truck over a year now, it sees very limited action. 2010 5.4 with just a tick over 40K, oil is good, air filter is clean and free of obstructions. We do live in the woods and have critters that hang out in the garage, like squirrels and chipmunks but I'm not seeing any evidence of chewed wires that I can see. It's in the garage and using a droplight I don't see anything obvious. Maybe it's as simple as I have to take the work truck and get a new battery I hope...
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Under normal driving how loud is the exhaust inside the car with the windows up and the radio on? I know the exhaust is loud as all the reviews say and i know there are videos on youtube of the exhaust but its always either with the windows down or windows up and radio off. I just want to know how much louder than stock it is just cruising with windows up and radio on if i want some sort of quiet.
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Is the eip race exhaust to loud for daily driving? People have told me that it would be to loud but I like loud. I looked on YouTube for soundclips but I only found two and one was pretty raspy.
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My sunroof will vent open and close by its self randomly while driving. Same problem occurs with my girlfriends 08 Passat. She said the dealership couldn't duplicate the issue, and when asked me about it I just laughed, shrugged my shoulders and said its probably just loose wiring.
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I hit a pillar with the driver side door and it bent a bit and now the open door alarm stays on while I drive and its even worse when the lights are turned on, how do I disconnect the door open alarm?
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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As if puttin on all new 4 tires and having to buy a new wheel because one was cracked didn't cost me enough. Car was idling for a good 30minutes or more (arguing with the gf) and out of no where I noticed the exhaust note change and the temperature rise. I shut if off before it even reached the red mark. Yes I checked the cooling fan and its working when the engine is warmed up. Was it possible some wires may have come loose from hitting a pot hole ( main roads) and it caused it to overheat? Car is running fine and I will get it in the shop next week to have it looked at
Could it have caused any damage to the engine even though I was able to stop it quick and let it cool down?
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I have a 87 F250 with a 302. Every time I drive it I smell like exhaust. Doesn't matter how short or long the trip, but the longer the trip the stronger the smell when you get out. I found 1 loose manifold bolt and tightend it, but no difference.
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