Golf R, 3000 miles. Seems like the engine sounds coarse or rough between 2-3k rpm for the first 5 minutes or so of operation. Smooths out after it is up to temp. Does not run rough, it's just an audible thing. Relatively insensitive to outside ambient temperature (winter/summer). One oil change with Motul Specific, Soundaktor still in place. Is this typical or am I the only one?
View 8 RepliesI started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
1996 Camaro RS, 170k miles, 3.8 liter, 5spd. Car has been fully functional. 10k miles ago, I changed fuel pump, filter plugs and wires with high quality parts. Recently got EGR code and also started to act up when driving. Took it to my trusted, long time, certified mechanic. He saw code and changed EGR. Ran good for short, cold, test drive and no codes. When I got it and drove away, it went back to bad. No power with throttling, but great idle. Puts out the classical "bog" sounds and stutters/sputters/surges.
I can only get about 35 mph out of my White Mullet once it's warm. All sensors and pressures checked good on live data viewer. I then changed coils and ignition controller. Didn't fix it. I blanked off EGR ports, didn't fix it. The car cooled off and I restarted. It ran fine for a few minutes, until I suspect it went from open loop to closed loop fuel/air control. I now guess it's the O2's or MAP, but they didn't code out, and presumably gave a reading at the shop. Could the O2's be way off base once the engine warms up and drive the fuel ratio way lean?
I've had my 2003 GTI VR6 for the last 12 years and was accustomed to the exhaust sound. I just picked up my 2016 GTI DSG w/ PP and I"m surprised with the exhaust sound. The new car is stock still, but it already sounds like it's been supped-up with a new exhaust system, kinda "throaty" and sporty. MUCH different than the 2003. Is this normal?
View 12 RepliesI owe a GTI autobahn 2015! I have problems with the front suspension (left side) sounds like is all loose, took the car to the dealer all they did is tight a bolt that is part of it! Problem still remain!!
When going over speed bumps and pot holes the front suspensions hit very hard like the shocks are not doing their job property!! This is causing the body of the car to start coming loose! I can hear some noises like an old car!!
Is normal or they need to be replaced,, i always drive in sport mode!!
I own a 2013 ES 350 with 5000 miles.
On cold weather conditions, doing a cold start, I allow the engine to run and warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes before driving. In this time frame the engine goes thru the whining sound and then the engine noise is quiet (normal).
What do other owners allow for engine warm up time before driving.
I have a 2006 f-250 with 5.4L 3valve engine. I was worried about my variable valve timing system because my engine sounds pretty rough and I hear a lot of valve chatter. I know that low oil pressure can be a big problem on these engines. Here is a pic of my oil pressure gauge. This was taken while the truck was warm while parked.
View 14 RepliesTest drove a 2013 Touareg Sport V6, 52k mi. Great cosmetic condition, drove great. Pretty quiet on good roads, but there was quite a bit of road noise on coarse pavement. Here are some measurements from inside the car, windows up (using a sound meter on my phone, for relative measures at least)
Engine off: 25db
Car stopped, engine at idle: 40db
60mph on highway, smooth pavement: 65db (tolerable)
60mph on highway, coarse pavement: 75b (less tolerable)
The tires are 18" Michelin LTX, still appear to be serviceable, for all I know they're the original tires but at any rate, they seem to be considered to be quiet tires in general.
Granted the roads are pretty bad here (Portland, OR) and most cars struggle to some degree with it... but I'm wondering how characteristic this is of the 2013 Touareg, what the thoughts are on the significance of the tires, etc. Also wondering if upper level trims, or perhaps later model years, have more sound dampening; e.g. I noticed there was no sound dampening under the hood, which was kind of surprising.
My 2005 gti 1.8t started sounding weird a few days ago, it has a really deeper tone to it, sounds like a truck or a diesel. I can also smell gas in the engine bay, car seems like it runs fine just sounds really funky. Sound gets louder as I accelerate.
Here what it t sounds like right now. Sound is coming from top of the motor or behind it near downpipe, not beneath the car from exhaust.
[URL] ....
I just bought the car.(2 months) This is all I've done to it.
-Changed the oil.. Euro spec Castrol Edge
-Changed the Plugs and Put the red R8 coil packs
-Changed the Diverter Valve
-Changed Air Filter
Its 2012 with 47,000 miles. I had the dealer tell me its just the fuel injectors and not to worry. I've seen and heard multiple GTI's and this is My 3rd 2.0t and none sounded like this. I'm new to the GTI but have driven nothing but VW since the state gave me a license in 1997
Video of the clicking. It sounds like a Diesel : [URL] ....
The issue I'm having, as stated is a no start issue. Its completely random and has no pattern. Here is the issue.
When the issue occurs, you will go to start the car to only have it click at you. No crank, no nothing. The click sounds like it comes from the engine bay but has not been confirmed. If you turn the key without the clutch in, putting the clutch in will make the click sound.
Thinking it was the ignition switch, I replaced it with a unit from advance auto. The issue occurred again shortly after so I pulled it out and put the old one back in. Then I replaced the starter. That didn't do it either.
It hasn't done it in a while so I kind of forgot about it but its started doing it again. Time to fix it.
Picture of the car for your viewing pleasure of displeasure...
I drive a 2003 Golf 2.0 manual. I've had this problem happen to me four times in my year-and-a-half of ownership -- once about three months ago and three times today.
Whether at highway or city speeds (60+ MPH or 30 MPH, respectively), power to the accelerator cuts out without warning. The engine briefly sounds like it's working overtime (but it could just be my foot on the accelerator pedal) and the tachometer needle struggles to stay at the RPMs. In a matter of seconds, the engine stalls and the needle gradually starts to fall. I can't tell you how dangerous of a situation this is to be in: 65 MPH on the highway with vehicles all around you, your car chokes, and you're losing speed.
The first time this happened to me three months ago, I had to hit my emergency lights and pull over to the highway shoulder. Turning the ignition off, then on, and attempting to start the car didn't work. I thought I was in trouble. Then I removed the key and tried it again. It was successful. I got to my destination (my parent's home) and they recommended I go see their regular mechanic for an inspection. He told me that the problem could be low fuel in the tank, as I did at the time. When the car's fuel tank is at a certain angle, the fuel pump doesn't pump fuel properly, messing up the whole combustion, and causing the car to stall. This explanation fit the situation I was in perfectly, as the fuel indicator had just come on when it occurred.
Today, the fuel indicator was just above the last 1/8 -- no fuel warning light -- and the car stalls three times (once on the highway to work, once on the highway home with no shoulders to pull over, and once on city road). I had prior experience about this and drive a manual, so I have attempted each time today to re-start the car while at speed. It was a scary situation the second time today: 9:30pm, dark, modest amount of cars on the road, on a twisty highway with no shoulders (California Highway 110 between Downtown and Pasadena) where each time you turn the ignition off, the headlights go out, the steering wheel goes stiff, and you're decelerating. Fortunately, I dropped only 25 MPH to 40 when I got the car running again when I remembered to remove the key first before re-starting.
Needless to say, rather than wait two days to get cheap gas at Costco (b/c I work tomorrow as well), I went to the 76 near my home and filled her up . Hopefully, this situation will not happen again, as I will be a lot more diligent about keeping gas in my tank.
Not sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
So, after driving my car around for maybe an hour without any warning lights, I turned my car off. I tried to turn it on 15 minutes later when it turned over twice, sounding much louder than usual, then nothing. Tried again and just a single click. So I fear the worst and check the oil which is low but still on the stick and the coolant is fine too. I thought maybe the battery was dead so I tried a jump and that won't turn the engine over either. I put a charged battery from another car in and nada. I tried turning cam gear and also the flywheel pulley with a cheater bar and it doesn't want to move. I'm totally screwed right? That same morning I fiddled with the purge valves for the evap system because of a trouble code which O got to disappear. The engine also sounded funny for like 2 days only during ignition. By funny, it seemed to be louder than normal but no horrible metallic sounds or anything. Is it possible for it just to seize like that for no apparent reason?
View 15 RepliesExperiencing dead battery due to a sound like a running fuel pump but the engine os off?
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 6"i" started rattling when cold but stopped after warmup, so I didn't think much of it for a few K's of miles until I took it in for an oil change. The mechanic stated that the oil filer "shroud" had cracked, it began leaking and there was less than a half quart in the car, although the "check oil light" did not come on. Upon fill-up, the rattling stopped but the mechanic also stated that there was no way to know if the engine had been damaged. This has been a great car with only 75K miles on it; half my friends say "keep driving and don't worry about" and the other says "SELL!" before the next noise I hear which might mean the engine's shot.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 L engine it is automatic transmission. Th issue is i just bought the car from a lot thinking it was an easy fix. What happens is when i start the car it goes from a 1k idle to a 500 or lower and sounds like it might die or if i am at a stop light and decelerate too fast it also feels like its going to die and has a few times unless i keep the gas pedal pressed down. I read the codes at my local store they said it was a engine misfire, o2 sensor the front one, and the map sensor.
My farther works at a pull and save which is a lot to pull used parts from cars hes brought a used ignition coil, used boots , i bought new spark plugs and nothing was fixed there. we have replaced the maf sensor and the map sensor both with used parts neither fixed the problem. I am at my wits end here i cannot afford to take it to the shops around here and am trying to get this fixed to get back and forth to work. I may have left out parts that have been replaced, also as far as lights are concerned the check engine soon light is on .
Having issues on cold morning starts where the car is shaking/trembling at warmup idle? Obviously this problem isnt as prominent at this time of year...
View 5 RepliesMy husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
View 7 RepliesOn a very cold start, overnight, temps are zero or below the car starts okay but sounds rough for a few seconds and lets out a bad smell. Almost like it stumbles at first then is rough then goes normal cold running. Car is at 40k miles.
View 7 Replies