Golf VI R :: Distinct Clunking During Engine Startup And Shutdown
Jul 17, 2015
Started happening yesterday. If I start the car I get 3 very distinct clunking sounds that I can also feel in both the clutch pedal and brake pedal. Then the car runs fine. No other issues I can find while driving, even driving a little aggressive. Then when I shut off the car I get the same clunking/shaking that I can feel in the pedals and hear. Sounds like something is broken but I can't figure out what. Only happens as the engine goes from 0 to idle or idle or 0.
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Is it normal to experience a distinct clunking noise when downshifting into first gear? My dealer indicates this is normal but I don't want to risk damage to the tranny if it is not normal.
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I have an '05 Chrysler 300C AWD with approximately 65k miles. The transmission makes a distinct clunking sound when downshifting and I am seeking advice about the cause and solution. For example, I live on a hill and when I slow down at the bottom of the hill the car will downshift and there is a clunking sound. This happens frequently when I am slowing down. In the past year the transmission quit 3x, in all cases the car would start and operate fine but would not go into gear - it would idle but nothing would happen when I put it in gear. The first two times the dealer kept the car for several days and made various adjustments and the car eventually worked again. The third time the Torque Converter was replaced, but the clunking noise continues.
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First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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I am having a new problem with a clunk when I brake my 2009 Sonata. It only happens the first 1-2 times I brake while going forward. In other words, I back my car down my driveway, no clunk. Then when I drive down my street, the first 1-2 times I brake it will start slowing and then suddenly I will feel the brakes grab and it feels like a clunk (although now real audible cluck, just the feeling). after the clunk my car continues to slow as normal. The rest of my ride I do not feel it. After I get out of work, it does the same thing as I am headed home.
I have never felt this before, and find it strange that it only happens after the car has been sitting a while and goes away after 1-2 brakings.
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Go drive around with windows down and in D accelerate normally through 3rd gear then begin to stop and let the trans start downshifting itself. At the end of the 3/2 and the 2/1 downshifts, do you hear a distinct click. You shouldn't have to try to hard to hear it if you have it. drivers window down and radio off I hear it, every time.
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I just picked up a 20th and it seems when it's running and parked i get this very distinct rattling noise from somewhere in my engine bay. I go to put the clutch down and it stops, as soon as i lay off the clutch it comes back (almost humming) could it maybe be the trans?
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IMy golf 1.8t 2002 shutdown at idle and when you started again she started again and runs fine you stopped at light wait few seconds the engine shutoff.
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I'd rate my car knowledge at about a 6.5 - I can do my own brakes / rotors / replace lights / O2 senors / etc. For whatever that's worth. I have not modified this vehicle performance-wise at all as yet. My '11 GTI has suddenly started throwing a CEL after startup, as pictured below:
It causes the engine to run oddly for a few moments after ignition, and then seems to correct itself as I drive more. In fact, the light will occasionally go off entirely. The engine runs unevenly, and the CEL will occasionally blink as the error occurs. I have one of these neato code readers which links up with my phone, so I checked that out and came up with these:
and
I couldn't figure out how to format them to be smaller. I've checked into some of these errors. They seem to be related to the O2 sensors (pre/post cat)- I had a similar issue on my Integra, and I needed to swap out and o2 sensor, and then all was well.
I guess the root of my questions is: Does this look like I need to swap out sensors? Which ones / why? Is there a simpler cleaning procedure that I might try before going the full distance?
I'm due an emission inspection at the end of the month, and I seem certain to fail unless I can resolve this issue.
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My 2010 Golf TDI 2.0 is currently at the dealership where they are attempting to diagnose this engine sound. They have had it two days and they can not get it to replicate the sound. (Imagine that!!!!). I have shared this video with the service manager however. I have 3000 miles on it now in just over one month old. I would estimate that my car has made this sound on 5 separate occasions and it only does this on the very first start-up of the day after it has sat for atleast 8-10 hours. Outdoor temperature has ranged in 40-50F.
Whenever this happens, it starts acting up within the first 30 seconds and completely disappears withing 2 minutes. The engine actually jerks laterally on each clunk, but the tachometer does not fluctuate when it is going thru this episode and no warning lights come on. Also, if I "give it gas" while it is going thru this episode, it goes away and in no way affects the smoothness of the increased RPM's. I have varied my fuel-up locations and I always wait atleast 2 seconds to ignite the engine after the glow-plug light goes out.
[URL] ....
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Finally got the car started after over a year of acquiring parts and labor. Cylinder 5&6 had misfires due to faulty injector harnesses. That issue has resolved. But I am getting a pretty distinct exhaust leak noise coming from the manifold area and i cannot figure out where it is coming from. We smoke tested it and still can't find the leak.
Things we checked:
-Head to manifold (all nuts tight)
-Manifold to turbo (all nuts tight)
-Turbo to downpipe (2 vbands both tight)
-Wastegate (2bolt manifold to adapter tight and vband adapter to wastgate tight)
-(2) O2 sensor plugs on the maniold (tight)
-All turbo hardware (tight)
-manifold and downpipe have no cracks
Picture:
Video:
[URL] .....
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Just started getting this noise recently when I start the car. It's coming from the engine bay and only occurs briefly for maybe a second, mainly when the engine is warm. It's a rattle sound. Other than the rattle, the car runs great..
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92 Dakota 3.9L ... Starts and runs great. Engine shuts down, usually within first 30 minutes after starting. No shutter, just as if you turned off the key. It has not been an everyday occurrence.
I can wait 2 minutes or spray brake cleaner in the intake and it will restart. It will run the rest of the day and never happens again on the same day, even with multiple restarts and driving 100 miles.
I have installed a new ASD relay, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new crank sensor and new air valve controller on the intake. They can't seem to catch it when it happens.
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Just recently, at 68,400 miles, the engine on my 2004 Dodge Sprinter stopped abruptly (on the freeway) and various instrument panel lights turned on. When we tried to start the van again, the instrument panel lights turned on again, and there was a humming coming from under the hood. After letting the van sit for awhile, it started normally, but the engine control unit light remained on. We took it in to a nearby Dodge dealer and the mechanic recommended replacing the fuel filter. We had the filter replaced.
The engine has not stopped abruptly anymore, however, when we try to start the van immediately after shutting it down, sometimes it will not start. Instrument panel lights light up and there is a humming coming from under the hood again. After letting the van sit for awhile longer, the van starts normally.
Previously, at 34,150 miles, the engine control unit light went on when the engine was started and stayed on for about 250 miles. The van drove normally during this time. The same thing happened at 59,100 miles and the light stayed on for about 250 miles again.
We take the Sprinter on long trips, and now we hold our breaths while starting the engine.
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2013--will the engine automatically shut down after some period of time if the engine is not manually shut down upon exit?
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I noticed that my Jeep has been making a distinct clapping noise any time the engine is not up to operating temperature. It sounds worst on cold mornings, but becomes quieter as the engine warms up. The noise is RPM dependent, so I'm assuming it has something to do with the engine. The noise is not audible when the engine is idling in park, but quickly shows up as soon as I put the car in gear and add gas. My father and I think that a slightly loose rocker might be the cause of the noise, but we're not sure. A mechanic friend of his told him that our jeep has self adjusting rockers so it can't really be fixed without replacing it. I've never heard of such a thing so I'm having a hard time believing it. The really confusing part is that it only makes noise when the car is in gear and the engine is under stress, making no noise when it's just idling, even when the engine is revved. Since purchasing it 5 years ago, we have been careful to do regular maintenance on our jeep so I'm somewhat surprised by it.
Vehicle Info:1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo~175000 miles4.0L I6 with stock 4 speed transmission Completely stock
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My 1999 Passat 1.8T (AEB engine) with 120,000 miles has run very well lately.............except for a recent problem. I drove 150 miles on southern California freeways, parked the car for an hour, then started it again. There was a distinct miss and the check engine light began flashing. I turned it off, let it sit for a couple hours, then plugged in a code reader. There were two codes, both the same - P-0302, "Cylinder #2 misfire". I pulled the cover off the engine, wiggled the wiring to the #2 coil, cleared the codes and started it up. There was no miss, maybe there was a little corrosion on the electrical connection?? I know there was a recall on the coils, but my car was too old to participate in the recall. Which it is - bad connection, bad coil, or something else? Or a way to diagnose it further?
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I have an '06 trailblazer with the 5.3 engine. When it's cold outside Freezing and below. The engine will start. Run for three seconds. And shutdown. Pass lock light stays solid. The engine won't crank for about a minute. And it'll do the same thing. If it's about 40 or above. No problems.
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My Prius is having a problem during cold start. When I bought it, the cold start was very energetic with a high rev tone then gradually regulate to a normal pace and petrol engine shuts down. But about 4 months I noticed the tone of the cold start has changed, it starts with a weak and low engine rev and delays to turn off the engine. Today it took about 10 mins to power off the engine. Got 2 months I changed my 12V battery (Bosch now), thought that these symptoms was to notify that battery is failing. But the problem is persistent despite I put new battery..
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We have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter 2500 Van 5 Cylinder Mercedes Turbo Diesel. Just recently, at 68,400 miles, the engine stopped abruptly (on the freeway) and various instrument panel lights turned on. When we tried to start the van again, the instrument panel lights turned on again, and there was a humming coming from under the hood. After letting the van sit for awhile, it started normally, but the engine control unit light remained on. We took it in to a nearby Dodge dealer and the mechanic recommended replacing the fuel filter. We had the filter replaced.
The engine has not stopped abruptly anymore, however, when we try to start the van immediately after shutting it down, sometimes it will not start. Instrument panel lights light up, and there is a humming coming from under the hood again. After letting the van sit for awhile longer, the van starts normally.
Previously, at 34,150 miles, the engine control unit light went on when the engine was started and stayed on for about 250 miles. The van drove normally during this time. The same thing happened at 59,100 miles and the light stayed on for about 250 miles again.
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I have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
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