Golf VI R :: DSG Tune - Unable To Set Launch Control Over 4000 RPM
Nov 14, 2013
DSG tune was supposed to set launch control for 4200, 4300 or 4500 rpm launch but the gearbox will not go above 4000 rpm? My tuner has tried 3 different files (4100, 4500, 4600) on my 2009 S3 but the actual launch control rpm is still 4000.
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I think there may be something wrong with my launch control, or perhaps i'm doing it wrong. I'm noticing that it doesn't seem to be "launching," instead it'll sit there for a few seconds and then begin to move, but it never launches.
How i'm doing it: Come to a complete stop, switch to S mode, turn off ESP, foot on brake, accelerate to ~2-3k RPMs, let off brake. It was recently at the VW dealer for the hole-less grille and I told them to take a look at it, but they said they found nothing wrong with it.
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I have a 2011 GTI 6MT, APR tuned. I am unable to rev beyond 4000 RPM in neutral, or in 1st with clutch pressed. Parking brake on/off doesn't matter either. I don't rev my engine at stop lights or anything stupid like that, I just found this out because a member on here suggested that I rev the engine up to test for an issue with something else, and I found this 4000 RPM limiter. Is this normal?
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I took note of this over the weekend. When you use Launch Control in tiptronic and you let the vehicle shift itself, it shifts at 6500-6700 rpms. But if you do Launch Control in Sport mode in first and second gear it shifts at 7100 rpms.
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Launch control not working, even though everything is done correctly? I was sitting at a light last night, put it in "S" mode, turned off ESP, pressed the brake down, hit the gas and only hit 2K and a little lurching... Tried it a couple more times, same thing... Next light, it worked just fine... Next light, same things again happened with 2K only and lurching...
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I bought a gonzo tune with no lift shift and launch control. I backfire during the launch but not when I no lift shift. It only happens once in a while. Mind you my friend had the same car with same upgrades and his was working better. Both gonzo tuned. What could be the issue?
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I am trying to run the UM tune on my ecu, getting an error "Failed to get control unit information from the ecu"
I do not have vag-com unfortunately but I don't believe it's currently flashed. If it's already flashed, I can still just over-write the current tune because it's just software from my understanding.
I have no blown fuses, I have already checked them all!
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In the past month, I had to use my "cruise control" a few times, and I had the bad experience that sometimes it works as it is intended to do, but other times I am unable set it after I turn on the cruise control; thus, it works on and off.
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AC would blow cold from time to time and not work other times, I tried a recharge and it did nothing to fix the issue so when I took it in for the 40k service I had them take a look at it and they told me that the tuning of my ECM is causing the AC to not work properly! I have the UM tune for flex fuel.
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I have the VF-stg II s/c kit with a UM E35 tune, it seems to have a problem mapping or something when in Launch control mode. If I don't turn off the Launch control before I start driving it will cut rpm's around 3k then kick back in after it thinks for a second, also the engine light comes on/ flashes when the power cuts out. It does this especially hard when going from first to second. It does have no lift shift, but not lifting off the gas when shifting doesn't stop the engine cough.
Should also mention that the launch control doesn't seem to work all the time, only once in a while, will the engine max the revs at 3k on start like it's supposed to when LC engaged.
Currently I have a warning light for Performance malfunction in cooling system, which is also confusing because I have replaced both my CTS and Thermostat , however whether or not the MIL is on the LC doesn't work correctly (I clear the code when it comes back) seems intermittent as I can drive a week or so before it comes back on.
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If I were to install a downpipe on the mk7 and not tune it, will my cel trip. Also if the cel trips is there any damage long term to the car having it on and second if I go to the dealer will I void warranty with a downpipe.
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Would you remove the tune for just a regular Oil change? Its not the 10.000 mile service, just made an appointment for the oil change at 6k miles.
I try not to flash as much as possible.
Note: In the future I am planning to change the oil myself with an extractor but not enough time and I plan to do a road-trip of 4k miles by the end of the year, so wanted to let them check everything prior.
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As the title says I currently have the idiot light on but I can honestly say the ECU might not be adapted yet. what the solution longer O2 spacers etc...?
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I have a 2008 Toyota sienna XLE and just recently I have been unable to change the heating/cooling zones. For instance I can't change it to defrost even if I press the defrost button. Right now it is stuck on vents. It's all electronic controls on my model and even if the display is showing feet or defrost it is still coming from the vents. I live in New Hampshire and on cold snowy days I've got to be able to change which zone I want heat.
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I have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
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I have a 2002 gti with an apt software tune...
Whenever I'm on the interstate in 5th gear for a while. And I'll start to speed up. Once 4k kicks in. My boost no longer works when it normally pushes like 22psi
Then after slowing down. No matter what gear I'm in. It limits back to 10psi of boost and once I hit 4k. It goes super slowe and boost won't work
The guy told me that I should get a smoke test done (idk where or how to do that)for my vacuum lines and that I have a cylinder 4 misfire. It may be a bad coil or spark plug. But I'd like to get some performance out of my car and I don't know what else or where to start. I am new to this.
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So I drive a 2008 R32/U.S. spec and I was in neutral when I pressed the throttle and it would not rev over 4000 rpms and was wondering why??
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4000 miles and I got the Check Oil Level light come on! I know it should not be on this early on. I have not had the 5k service yet. What oil I need to put in there to top it off till the oil change?
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While driving a warning came up indicating low oil pressure and limiting my revs to under 4000, the car only has 3100 miles on it is this something that I should be worried about?
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I've had a weird problem pop up within the past few weeks. My engine seems to have a noticeable whine above 4000 RPMs. It sounds almost like a supercharger whine, but my engine is completely stock. Possible problems I found online include exhaust leak, vacuum leak or tensioner issue for the belts.
Another issue I have had is that whenever shifting into second gear, I have some difficulty getting it into second gear. It makes a scraping sound as though the clutch is not disengaged all the way. On occasion, I have also had the shifter kind of pop second gear out when continuing onto third or even feel like it is rejecting second gear sometimes. A friend of mine told me that the scraping sound is normal and, "that's just how manuals are." Doesn't seem normal to me especially since it is every time I shift to second gear.
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So i have a 2010 gti stage 2 uni, when i have a half tank of gas or less when it reaches about 4000rpm it will loose power harshly that it almost makes u eat the steering wheel, but when it has more than half a tank of gas it drives just fine. I get low pressure fuel rail code when scaned with vagcom...
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