I have 4K miles on my R and I have noticed that the clutch "feels" softer and when engaging first gear, the clutch feel on up take feels different then when it was new. Am I crazy or does the clutch need to wear in / break in?!?
View 2 RepliesSo long story short, last week I destroyed my first gear in the tranny. This weekend I did the complete swap and put a used o2j in. 5 speed. 2.0 motor.
Right after the swap, on the first startup I noticed the clutch felt softer. The grip is also a little less than it used to be.
Right before my transmission blew I upgraded from 15" alloys to 17" longbeaches with spacers all around- much heavier. It happened on my first drive with the new rims so I didn't get to feel the car much.
I reused my current slave cylinder. Did not disconnect it from the line while swapping. I did however notice my slave boot had a small little dent in it (super small) but no tears or anything. Also, reinstalling it i pushed it in and compressed the boot and secured it with the bolts - I hope I did this right.
I redid my rear brakes about a month ago, did not disconnect brake lines or bleed the system.
I have already driven about 50km on the new tranny. Today I am getting the tranny service (flush) done because I didn't have the sockets to check it after install. I'm going to ask the mechanic if he might know anything. The brakes also feel a touch less but I'm not sure if this is cause of the 17" wheels.. does the system just need to be bled?
All gears go in smooth - clutch in.
All gears go in smooth with car off.
No grinding of gears when switching or driving.
No reverse grind.
No slipping in any gears.
Just a soft pedal and feels like softer bite. I did the tranny swap in a rush, did not replace fork, TOB or anything. They should all be fine, I'm thinking it's just air but need confirmation. I just want this car to last another year or so..
Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
View 10 RepliesI am only currently APR stage 1 and my clutch is completely shot. It is currently at the shop getting a stage 2 endurance clutch put into it.
View 24 RepliesI had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
View 1 RepliesFan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesThe clutch started to slip on my 2006 Matrix at just 32K miles.Only going up hills ~3500rpm, near the engine's torque peak.The previous owner must have dogged it in the 8,100 miles they had it.Unfortunately no way to know that time bomb was there.
Got the car back today. (Excellent indie shop in College Park MD)The flywheel and pressure plate had blue color from overheating.The flywheel had to be resurfaced.The friction disk was not worn down much.The pressure plate springs apparently were weakened from the heat.I can really feel the difference.
I got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
Having problem with 5R110W direct clutch. My nephew had his 2005 SD f 250 6.0 be told that 5R110W direct clutch problems. He was towing a trailer in tow mode and it started slipping in and out, so he took it to a dealer and they said that it was the direct clutch that was causing the problem and needed to be rebuilt, he only has 40000 miles on it but they said that it is out of warranty. What do you guys think that he should do?
View 12 RepliesI know my clutch is not going to last forever and I do think Ive gotten my share of use out of it but i want to know if there is a way i can determine just how much more life there may or may not be. Although I have not looked into it yet, Ive just learned to read these awesome forums before jumping to conclusions.
I have a 2000 f150 4.2 v6 with about 180.000 miles and i am starting to lose my pedal, not much left anymore. I think. Am I able to see the clutch plate via the inspection cover?( i know stupid question). if so , what do I look for.
In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
View 8 Replies80km on my accent, the brake pedal was getting softer and brake fluid was a bit low as normal due to brake pads were worn up over time. Brake pads were never changed. I thought changing the pads would change the softness of the brake pedal. I changed the brake pads, left and right, the brake fluid in the reservoir went up as normal but I drove around but the softness of the brake pedal did not change. I still had a little less than half size on the old pads. I need to press the pedal a bit much to feel the brakes. I am wondering maybe the brake pedal was always like that when I bought the car.
View 4 RepliesI have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?
I recently traded in my old 95 ES 300 for a 2013 ES 300H. I prefer the ride quality of the older model. I realize that many people prefer the new ride quality, but I don't. I have Michelin tires, and I have reduced the pressure to about 29 PSI, which worked, but I'd like to soften the ride more. Is it possible to adjust the suspension or shocks to make the ride softer?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 that was once a work horse. Its now just my daily. The leaf springs in the rear have 2 broken on each on and the front need to be replaced due to 344K miles on them too. My question is how do I soften up my ride on leaf springs though? Theres a local shop that will do the work, but my rears have 7 leafs / front 2. It used to tow daily but I dont tow anything with it. could I go to 5 in the rear to soften it?
View 14 RepliesCar's at the dealership, AC compressor died. Car has 22k miles. They stuck me in a Cobalt. Base model. Complete with manual windows and door locks.
View 6 RepliesHow many miles can be driven after the computer tells you have zero miles left to empty? Or rather how many gallons do you think is left in the tank after the computer says you're empty?
View 19 RepliesMy 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
So, upon taking my car in for a dead wheel and tire due to pothole incident, I was told that my alternator needs to be replaced. I am in a bit of shock as the car is only 2 years old and only has 16,000 miles.
The service advisor that I spoke with states that it could break as a result of charging a dead battery. This confounds me more, as I thought jump starting a car was not an operation that would take out an alternator.
Luckily this is a repair covered under warranty, whether or not this was a valid reasoning for the failure or an alternator. If so, what have been supposed to do if battery dies?
The MFD did the 500 mile service countdown and now just says service now, to get this cleared do I need someone with a Vag-Com to clear it? is there some trick or will it go away automatically.
View 4 RepliesThe service light for the oil change came on this weekend. The car only has 2996 miles on it. The manual calls for the oil change at 5000 miles. My Touareg doesn't do this. Is this tied in to how you drive or is something wrong?
View 6 Replies