Golf VI R :: Clutch Noise Making Vibrations?
Mar 9, 2013
Searched through old threads but didn't come across these in particular, a lot to look through so may have missed in Car has 270 miles on it.
1) When clutch is in all the way and the car is revved, I can feel it in my left foot. This can be felt when car is stationary or in motion - Is this common for MK6/R? I don't recall being able to feel this in my MKV GTI
2) When the car is in motion, I hear a knock noise right after the clutch is pressed in. I can only hear the noise if windows are open and stereo is off, and this only occurs while the car is in motion. - Is this a standard clutch noise for healthy clutch/pp/flywheel/throw-out bearing on this platform, or should there be no noises? It sounds like something I'd expect to hear with a messed up throw-out bearing.
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MKV R32? I take Hwy 17 to and from work. It's a pretty curvy road with some of tight turns (fun) and a number of slight turns that have a little incline. Whenever I make a slight right turn (like a long sweeper), I feel a slight vibration under the pedals and it feels like the car is grinding.
It only happens on those slight turns at 50-65mph and I can only replicate the vibrations on a curvier road......The car is smooth as silk around town, on the interstate but not when it comes to those right hand sweepers.
The car has no problem taking full right hand turns or even handling a right hand hairpin. Could it be my tires?wheel bearings? alignment?need my tires rotated? I took it to the dealer and the mechanic and I couldn't replicate the problem on the interstate. The car has 8900 miles on it and I will need to take it in for service soon.
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I have a 2013 golf r and I usually shift gear at 3 rpm when driving normal but for some reason it doesn't feel right, I can hear the clutch making a weird noise whenever changing gear at a low rpm, it feels so much smoother when shifting above 4 rpm but I dont always wanna punch it so hard especially when there's always traffic from where I live. Any advice on a smoother shift at a low rpm.
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noticing a few issues with my 2003 jetta 2.0 when driving/shifting....so first main thing I noticed is when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear often times it will make a grinding sound and not shift smoothly from 1st to 2nd....you have to do it real slow/gingerly ...if I short shift from neutral to 2nd its fine or if down shifting to 2nd its fine...I have changed the gear oil...other sounds idk if its my tranny or engine but if going up hill and you throw into 3rd and not going fast enough its makes a rattling sound and is sluggish I know its a old car 177,000 miles so idk just curious if this is a sign of problems?....Last thing after driving and getting home and putting into reverse gear to park it makes a noise like a chugging sound when reversing and can be finicky going into reverse.
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Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
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I've had a jangling fan clutch for awhile. Would love to get ridbof this. Any tricks to get rid of that noise? Pretty sure its functional, just noisy.
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I just got done changing a/c clutch on a 96 f-350 5.8 because it was making a lot of noise. The new one is just as bad. Would the air gap cause this? When I took it off I could see it was hitting the pulley. The gap was 0.21 is that the specs on it.
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I have a 2005 C-280 4Matic wagon that I purchased used a year ago. In the last few days I've noticed a vibration and low frequency growl when I turn into a parking spot, pull out of said spot while turning the wheel, doing a K turn etc. It's the kind of sound you hear on 4 wheel drive cars when the wheel is at it's maximum revolution during a turn.
I can't tell if this has always been happening and I am just noticing it now, or if something happened!
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My 04 GX has about 113k on it and the A/C clutch is shot, making a ton of grinding noise when its engaged (when the A/C is on).
Need to repair or replace there unit because of this? I see online the ability to buy just the clutch pack for the A/C compressor. However Lexus and other sites want to sell me the whole A/C compressor.
Question being, can I get away with buying the clutch pack and installing it onto my OEM a/c compressor? Or do I buy a new compressor?
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Pretty sure the a/c clutch on my LT1 is going - making lots of noise when working and also when not.
I've heard on some forums that this could be a bearing? Is it advisable for me to replace the entire clutch or just this bearing?
Either way, I assume I'll have to pull the clutch for which I think I'll need two special tools:
(1) clutch holder tool to break nut loose.
(2) pulley puller.
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The car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
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Here is what happened. I bought the truck used a few years back. The A/C clutch always made a clunking noise when it engaged first thing in the morning but then when restarting later in the day no noise. No noise either once it started up, the compressor ran quietly.
Then I recently went camping, it was just this past weekend and we had a bunch of rain. So I had on the front defrost mode on the heater for the windshield. I let the truck idle for about 15 minutes. The wife noticed that the truck was overheating (I have a Taurus fan installed and the fuse blew on the controller thats another story for another time, I got that fixed. I think it was because the clutch was trying to engage but couldnt and it made the fan controller overheat and the fuse blew) So I popped the hood and it was smoking under the hood. So I turned off the defroster and hear some noise under the hood. The AC clutch was not engaging when on the defroster mode and is making a clunking/grinding noises all the time now.
When I returned home I checked the fuse for the AC clutch and it was blown. So I replaced the fuse and it engaged the clutch by turning on the A/C, the clutch engaged and the compressor sounded fine and the clunking noise went away, it also blew cold air all the time the A/C was on, with this it looks like the compressor is fine.
Then I tried the defroster setting again to simulate what had happened at the campground and the clutch was engaging at first then started to slip and I could smell it burning. So I shut it off. The A/C clutch is still making a clunking /grinding noise noise and wont engage at all now even when turning on the AC.
So for a second opinion from all of you, does it look like I can get away with just replacing the clutch assembly? Also does the clutch assembly come with the new magnet, bearing, and plate?
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I found out that the bearing in the compressor clutch is the one making my car sound like crap... but I have been looking for it and everywhere I call they only sell the whole compressor that is expensive. I was thinking on get the clutch out and lube the bearing up or something but I don't know if I have to discharge the freon for doing it ... How to remove the AC clutch ?? Its an mk4 btw....
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I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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I have a 1987 Camaro with a 305 TPI V-8, with a 5-speed manual transmission. I rebuilt the transmission, and installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the fly wheel ground (which the machine shop said that it took very little material off to get clean-up). When we first got the car running when the car is moving in any gear (even in neutral) with the clutch peddle down, I get a rotary grinding noise (but only about 30% of the time). If I let the clutch pedal up the noise stops immedately. The transmission shift smooly, in all gear selection. I thought that I had gotten a bad throw out bearing, so we installed an other new throw out bearing, but I get the same noise. Is there something that could cause this noise inside the transmission?
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I have a 10 year old 2003 Subaru Forester in "very good" condition....except that the transfer clutch assembly is starting to make noise and the repair shop (at the dealer) says, housing has to be replaced also. The car has 130K miles and has had all its regular maintenance for 10 years. The only major mechanical problem we've had are the head gaskets (which on this year's model were NOT part of the recall). Those were fixed 2 years ago. Some of what I see in the online chatter about transfer clutches suggests that this is a slippery slope and the next thing you know there's the "next thing" that needs to be worked on. We were hoping that the 2014 Forester would get really good mileage (this one got 30 when it was younger) but we hear it will only be 32 mpg so we're inclined to "keep waiting" if this car can be kept happy. Is a transfer clutch repair a big deal?
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I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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Today i took my wheels off and installed the anti rattle caliper clips. They were missing and my brakes were making a ton of noise so my tech recommended it. I have them installed properly from the instruction i was given, and all the sudden my brakes hardly work, and the pedal goes to the floor. Im not leaking brake fluid anywhere, and everything is hooked up and fastened properly.
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not my video but my R is making the same noise on start-up and lasts till the RPM's drop.
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Trying to isolate a troubling noise from the back. The ONLY place the car makes this sound is angling out of my driveway, which I always do to avoid scraping. This twists the car along its length, because the last bit of the driveway slopes down into the street beyond, and the street goes uphill to the right. So it's down one angle while heading up another. It's a loud heavy snap/clunk, like something unloading tension. I think.
Have a UNIbrace in place, took it out for a while, no change. Next to investigate is RSB doing something. I'm thinking I should just undo the end links so the bar is not in play... then if that sound is still there I know that's not what's causing it.
But... do I want the weight of the car off the wheels to undo the end links (top bolt that doesn't go through the shocks, of course). Or does it not matter? I don't wanna release tension abruptly (speaking of which) by undoing incorrectly and have something go boing and smack me in the face. OR, I guess the proper way to ask is "What's the correct way to take load OFF the RSB so I can undo the end links?"
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