Golf VI R :: Clutch And Brake Pedal Pulsing After Swapping Of Full Brake Fluid To RBF660?
Jun 6, 2014
I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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The brake pedal on my Golf 4 GTI 132KW pulsates when I put my foot on the pedal going over uneven terrain without pushing the pedal in.
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Over the past week I have noticed leaking brake fluid and after my STOP Brake failure light came on I topped off the brake fluid and it is down to a low level again. I also notice that the clutch pedal (manual) does not return all the way when the brake fluid is low and I assume they share the same fluid. I'm going to take it to my mechanic but could this be a clutch problem or just a fluid leak.
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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I have an 04 GLI 1.8T 6speed. It is very clear to me that the car has some hydraulic issues. I can't leave the clutch in for more than 10 seconds or it stays on the floor and I have to pull it back up with my foot. So what does this mean? (Besides the fact that I'm a double clutch king now) I couldn't wrap my head around why this was happening and thought at first it may have something to do with a hole in the Slave Cylinder that is allowing air into the lines. Neither confirmed nor denied yet.
My other problem I have is that my car is losing brake fluid at about a quart every 3 weeks. I'm no expert but that is alarmingly fast, and it is getting worse by the month. When driving I get the error message of STOP and my brake light flashes, which is how I know it is low. I can't locate the leak but I do see a drip coming from somewhere behind the drivers side front tire, relatively close to the firewall. I don't know if I have a broken brake fluid line that is dripping down, or if something else could be broken that is causing the leak.
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Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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I bought 09 GX-470 4K miles ago..has 50K on it. Ran perfect when we bought it. wife said it started doing it 1 week later. I drove it and felt like warped rotors to me. replaced front rotors and pads with cheap wearever brand...I Know...I was sort of trouble shooting..did nothing ...did the back rotors and pads and seemed to fix it..did proper bed-in of new parts but, never checked at speeds above 55mph. recent trip got us up to speeds above 55... at these faster speeds when brakes are applied we get a nasty wheel wobble and a pulsing pedal...braking below 55 it feels fine.. thought's ?? last car was a 4runner which has the the same rotors and pads and never had a problem...could it be ABS ?? should I go with new oem rotors and pads ?
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This morning, when checking the oil in my car, I noticed the brake fluid was about half way full.
Before doing the 5k mile service, I had noticed it wasn't full. I told the dealer to make sure they top it off, and they did. Now at 12k the reservoir is half way again. Rarely brake fluid should go down.
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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"I have a 1997 Mazda 626 w/ 198k miles.... The clutch is making a squealing noise when depressed and I am losing brake fluid."
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My clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss.
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I have a 2001 Grand Prix SE 3.1 that the brake pedal goes to the floor. I did notice the fluid was low , filled it up. I do not think it sucked air, although I can not be sure of that. As you can imagine, it is a beater so don't want to stick a ton of money in it. I had someone look at it that said he thought it was a "sensor" that would cost over 500 bucks. I don't know of any brake sensors at all. If there is, do they cost that much? If not would this be a master cylinder.
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80km on my accent, the brake pedal was getting softer and brake fluid was a bit low as normal due to brake pads were worn up over time. Brake pads were never changed. I thought changing the pads would change the softness of the brake pedal. I changed the brake pads, left and right, the brake fluid in the reservoir went up as normal but I drove around but the softness of the brake pedal did not change. I still had a little less than half size on the old pads. I need to press the pedal a bit much to feel the brakes. I am wondering maybe the brake pedal was always like that when I bought the car.
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I have a 2003 Jetta GLI. Thus morning driving into work my clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I was able to pull it back it and make it to work, but when i got to work i noticed fluid dripping from underneath my car.
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2003 - I tried to change the brake fluid with a MityVac. I've done it to dozens of cars with no problem. With the Prius it didn't take it well as I have to pump the pedal sometimes to stop or the pedal goes way down. Only now I read about how a special Toyota scan tool is recommended to do it. Is there any other way? I only really did the front brakes since after trying one rear wheel cylinder and getting nothing out of it, I quit. The dealer wants $165 and I'm sure that doesn't include any extra shop fees and such they tack on. What other way can I try before taking it in?
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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I am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
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seem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
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I put my Honda Element in storage for 6 months while traveling. Upon my return I found the battery was dead (expected that) and have that fixed, But, the big problem is the engine light is on steadily, and the car hardly drives. It "pulses" , or wants to go, even with brake on. I have to put it in neutral at stop lights, as I am afraid it may take off. When idling, it pulses. I accelerated while in neutral and the highest i could get it to go was 5k, pulsing the entire time. Someone suggested I put a product into gas tank called Heat.
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