Golf VI R :: Clutch Slippage / Failing Flywheel
Sep 11, 2013
I have a stage 1+ tune, fuel pump, and intake. I ran into some clutch slippage and I decided to purchase an aftermarket clutch that was designed to mate with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I went this route because I had a single mass on my GTI and it was loud. I figured this would be a good solution to avoid the noise and be able to hold the added torque.
I broke it in as the instructions stated. After break in I gave it some throttle and I notice that there is severe slipping occurring. I have the clutch and flywheel pulled back out and sent back to the clutch manufacturer (they requested to see the flywheel despite it being the OEM one). The manufacturer states that the clutch is fine but the OEM flywheel is failing. They refurbish the clutch and ship it back to me with the flywheel. I take the flywheel to the dealer and explain that I suspect the flywheel is failing and divulge that I have some light modifications. The dealer shows me paperwork that they had behind the counter that says that any transmission issues on cars A, B, C, and D require an immediate contact to their VW rep and an opening of some type of file on the failure (forget what they called it). What's on the top of the list? The Golf R of course. They go on to tell me that they need the car to start this process and they will do nothing with the removed flywheel that I brought to them.
So at this point, my car is in pieces at the shop that I use and I've been without it for going on a month. I will also, obviously, end up having to pay double the labor for the install. I am also going to be out some more money to come up with a viable solution as I still don't have a functional flywheel. So what do I do?
I could purchase another OEM flywheel for about $800. My concern here is the OEM flywheel busting up again and being in exactly the same spot that I am in now. I could purchase a new aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo and scrap the hope of avoiding the noise and sell the refurbished clutch I have to try to recoup some of the losses. Not sure what other options I have, if any.
Needless to say, I am feeling pretty unhappy about this whole thing. I've landed in a place where I am going to end up shelling out twice as much cash as I should have to get a clutch in my car. Burning a couple of grand to get absolutely no benefit stings more than a little.
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I have experienced what I believe is clutch engagement failure or clutch slippage on three occasions over the last 2000 miles on my DSG equipped 2011 GTI. Twice from a complete stop the engine rev to 3000 rpm but the car did not move. I let off the gas then tried again and the car accelerated normally. Once, again when accelerating from a complete stop the car moved relatively slowly while the engine revved, the clutch then seemed to fully grab and the car accelerated normally. I plan to get the car into the dealer in the next couple of weeks but I fully expected that the service staff will not be able to replicate the problem since it occurs infrequently.
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My GTi has little over 18k on the clock and it will be a year old on Thursday. Coming back home from work last Friday i floored it @ around 3 rpm in 6th, and i got clutch slippage.
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Went APR low output stage 1 on my 2016 GTI PP 6MT W/ Less then 5k miles on it. Clutch immediately started slipping in high torque situations.
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I did replace one of this days the rear main seal in my r32, and reinstall the clutch like i normally do, and right after i start the car I notice this horrible noise, scare the hell of me cuz i thought i did not had oil in the car for a moment, but i did never drain it, so I ran to get my stetoscope and the noise is coming from the clutch flywheel area, so i did remove everything apart and reinstall it, resurface the flywheel got another clutch and pressure plate, and nothing the noise is still there, do this noise sound familiar to u?
Timing chains? engine is new, and when I mean new I mean only 175 miles, got it from the dealer.. Main bearings? Clutch? only 100 miles got it new about 3 months ago. I already check all the pulleys and none make any kind of noise, [URL] ....
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Sounds actually quieted down and my mechanic is thinking its more the alternator pulley.
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I installed a new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel at 154,000 and I'm now just over 155,000. I drove it very conservatively for at least 1,000 miles, and had no issues whatsoever.
Now, after sitting for a day, starting off in first gear, I'll get some clutch chatter. Outside of first starting out in 1st, every other gear is solid. And the 1st gear chatter tends to get better as the car is driven longer.
Secondly, it happened today, I'm getting what I thought I experienced before as clutch slippage in 5th gear: I'll lose acceleration as if the clutch is slipping, but the revs won't spike even if I tap the throttle. If I come off for a second and go back on, everything is fine. It doesn't make sense that's it's slipping as it's brand news.
It also seems to happen when it's been rainy or wet, but that could be all in my head.
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Just installed APR stage 1 software around 1000 miles ago. The power increase is great, though the last couple days i noticed a slight like slippage from the clutch. I dont do any burnouts. Just open it up,( full thottle) here and there. Always let the car reach operating temp before i start driving. I am afraid that the stock clutch is going to go on me. By the way the car only has 2600 miles on the odo...
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My car makes a clunking sound when the clutch is released, it's not the throw out bearing or the pressure plate, as they have been replaced twice already???? Have dual mass flywheel go bad, what were the symptoms?????
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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Well, I have had this R since march and all was good until I started to hear some light metallic noise coming from lower end within a day or so seemed to go away and then it came back but more pronounced and more like chatter (marbles inc a can noise) at idle... anyways long story short decided to pull the tranny and see what the deal was.
Found the FW loose all 10 bolts about 1 - 1.5 turns out but at this point decided to remove to make sure nothing else was the problem.... Backside of DMF. found this spacer/sheild that is staked to the backside of FW that sits against the block all shredded.. Now to my question like I said the car was running fine ..so do I need this or can I slap this thing back together w/o this shield or is it really necessary.... cant swing the money right now for a whole new DMF / clutch kit
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I've got a 2010 GTI with xenons, fogs are vag'd to turn on at low speed and when the turn signal comes on. Now there's a loud noise shortly after driving. Go to turn at low speed and noise can be heard and message comes on to check low beam light. Headlight, fog and turn signal are all affected at the same time especially if I'm stopped at a light with turn signal on. Talked to a friend that's a tech at VW and he said its most likely the ballast and when I talked to him and his parts guys they had never replaced one.
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yesterday my r began making a new buzzing sound when accelerating. ive researched and i guess it does somewhat sound like a quick blow into a harmonica. I am pretty aware of the sounds my car makes and am sure that this is completely new. the noise only occurs under load around 2800-3000 when boost comes on and then things go back to normal.
i have been tuned UM stage 1 since july and have never experienced this noise before yesterday.
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2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
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I just came home from work and wanted to show a VW that a 3.2ton SUV could be fast with the right engine.
Ok....I won..........but it was the first time that I recognized a kind of slippage under WOT....and I was in 4WD.
That slippery feeling don't come from the wheels. What to do now besides not to race anymore until repair?
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Over the past few weeks we have not driven the Touareg as much and noticed something new. On cold start, after sitting for 1-2 days the transmission seems to slip when going from Park to reverse. Once in reverse, I apply throttle, the tack goes up, but the Treg does not move . It takes 2-5 seconds for it to go, then it smoothly starts to pull, slow at first and then catches up. Once I am backed out of the garage (25-30 FT), I shift to drive and there is no more slipping until the next cold start.
I called the dealership and they told me this was normal. I took it in for an overnight stay so they can experience it in the morning after sitting overnight. I also asked that the Transmission fluid be checked since the engine was in and out twice and it had a leaky seal. We have put in the neighborhood of 70-80K miles on the 4 Touaregs we have owned and I don't ever remember this symptom or problem.
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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I know the serp belts were done on my 1.8T passat 25k miles ago. The tensioners were not done, of course.
While the engine is still cool I sometimes hear belt slippage on take off or throttle change. I was thinking to just replace the serp belts but then it occurred to me that it could be one of the tensioners causing the problem.
Are the tensioners prone to failure? Or I should just change belts? Car has 92k miles on it total.
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I around 1200 miles. The car would get going when i give it gas but it feels as if their was shifting lag or slipage. Only in first gear. Doesn't happen all the tho..usually happens on rolling stops... is this normal?
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I have replaced a bad module in the HV battery and balanced it. Inverter coolant pump has been checked and inverter coolant has been replaced. Engine coolant has been drained and refilled. (Both coolant jobs followed Haynes manual guide including bleeder valves.) Transaxle fluid is full.
After each step of troubleshooting I have done a test-drive. Warnings come on consistently within 2-2.5 miles, day or night. I do not have a scan tool, but I do have the trouble codes from Toyota (all prior to my repairs). Is it possible that a bad ECT sensor could trigger all of this?? Is there something else I can check?
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About 8 months and 12k miles ago I had the trans in my 2007 Explorer V6/auto completely rebuilt – now has about 89k. In the last couple of days when pulling away it has intermittently (maybe once a day) sounded like a loud fan was revving, which was accompanied by what I believe is trans slippage. Yesterday it seem to get more regular, at idle it revved itself up to about 2k rpm without moving while I was sitting at a red light, felt like the trans was slipping and then the communication section of the dashboard flashed red with a thermometer. As the warning was red, the engine temp gauge went to hot, as soon as the fan sound and slippage issue stopped (after about 10-15 seconds) the message went away and the engine temps gauge went back down to normal. What may cause this? Also, how long a dealership should warranty a its trans work?
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