I recently replaced my clutch and I've noticed that occasionally, while downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, I hear a clunk sound that comes from beneath the back seats. Especially if my throttle bliping is not aggressive enough. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesAfter 11 VWs, I finally have one that I would love to drive over a cliff. My 2015 Golf TSI Sport is a miserable car for me. I have had it back to the dealer four times for the infamous "shimmy" and shift problem with the automatic transmission. It has the standard automatic. The transmission has no idea which gear to use, it shifts like a bowling ball in a barrel.
Clunks upshifting and downshifting. The other problem is the shimmy/wobble. I have it in spades. The car always feels like it is hitting small strips in the road with a constant vibration in the front. The dealer cannot find the problem even though VW is trying to figure it out. (I have a feeling this isn't the first time). It is the worst driving car I have ever owned. Would much rather drive my 04 GTI with 100,000 miles and worn tires.
I have a strange noise issue on the clutch since day 1. When on regular driving, if I'm decelerating on compression and downshifting from 4 to 3, and 3 to 2nd (like slowing down to stop at a red light), when a release the clutch slowly, at the friction point, I am hearing a scratch noise, like 2 metal parts are touching each other.
When totally depressed, no problem, when totally pressed no problem too. Only at the friction point. It's more noticeable when downshifting from 4 to 2.
Put in a brand new Clutch Masters stage 2 kit with flywheel and throwout bearing. Also installed ecs bleeder block. Got everything back together and bled the system. But the pedal is still sticking to the floor with no pedal feel at all.
View 9 RepliesMy R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
I have a 2004 Jetta GLS with 125K miles and standard transmission. Just had the clutch completely replaced. After I picked the car up, I ran some errands, turning the car off and on a few times. Then the ABS/traction control light came on. I tested the brakes, which seem fine, and accelerated on some ice, with no flashing light like usual, so that's a concern. Came home and used the VAG software - no fault codes came up. Went back to mechanic, who said the clutch and this new issue are not related, but he checked my wiring, checked for fault codes, and took it for a test drive. Said he did make the flashing light come on. Turned the warning light off. It came back the next day.
My questions:
- Could this be related to the clutch being replaced?
- Is this something I should worry about, or just live with the light on?
Heard a clunk and then have the car feel like something from the inside is trying to stop it when using the paddle shifters in manual mode. Specifically when downshifting from 2 to 1. By the way I did a slight throttle blip, I have done this before with very smooth results but this time it really scared me, I though the transmission broke for a second; when the car did what it did.
View 6 RepliesI have a 07 Ls460. When downshifting from second to first there is a click that is sometimes a clunk. Lexus has replaced the trans with no change. They have cleaned and lubricated rear suspension bolts and replaced the rear shocks and springs and the differential mount. Again, no change.
This started at about 80k and continues at 123k. They have checked motor mounts, transmission mount and repacked the driveshaft spline. When the car is lifted into the air and the weight is off the suspension the noise will go away for a few days.
This noise has also been heard occasionally when rolling off the gas between 20/30 mph and then reapplying throttle. Lexus mechanics and area reps are at a loss to diagnosis. I have driven a 2008 loaner and it had the same noise.
The car is a 2011 GTI 2dr w/6 speed, 12,000miles, cat back exhaust and that's it. Recently when I get into my car in the morning when it is cold (social not that cold) and either put it in reverse or just take off from first the clutch makes a really loud whining noise. Generally, it will go away after a few minutes but sometimes it doesn't go away even after the car is warmed up.
The thing that is weird to me is the clutch isn't slipping at all, even on a hard pull. I know that VW's clutches don't have reputation for lasting that long but I would be pissed if they said it was my fault seeing I drive it nice 9 times out of 10. On another note, I had my leaking water pump replaced a couple weeks ago, ever since then after the car warms up something is making a loud noise that sounds exactly like when your ears are ringing. I popped the hood and it sounds like it coming from the rear of the engine bay but its really to hard to pinpoint exactly where.
I just heard that the auto transmission is acting up it won't go into high gear, and is sluggish at shifting in the lower gears. It all started with a clunk noise when downshifting at a light. Sensor failure? Band failure?
View 2 RepliesI had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
View 4 Replies38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
I recently replaced the 2 rear Pirelli 19"s on the back with Michelin Diamaris 4x4. I left the slightly worn 2 front Pirellis on thinking NO big deal. WRONG! By not replacing all 4 tires at the same time I noticed a "clunking" noise coming from under the vehicle while under 20mph.
After trouble shooting at 2 different dealerships the second one concluded that I need 2 new front tires. At first they thought that the left front drive shaft was bad but after installing a new one "clunk" was still there. Dealer removed 4 wheels/tires from a new Touareg and placed them on my '04 and "clunk" went away. My '04 has the 4 corner air suspension and locking differentials as well.
This is regarding my 96 BMW 328i. It has approximately 177,000 miles on it. Over the past year, I've replaced the cooling system, fuel pump, alternator and trans fluid for kicks. So, I'm understandably frustrated with it. Anyway, to my story:
On my way into work, whenever I pressed in on the clutch, it would make a loud clunk/pop and freak me out. I turned around after 1/4 of the way and swapped cars.
My mechanical skills are maybe 3 on a scale of 1 to 10. I'm not afraid of changing oil, brake pads, transmission fluid, changing an alternator, etc. But I want to have someone to blame for anything that involves anything within the engine block/head/transmission continuum.
I noticed that a heat shield was loose between the driveshaft and the exhaust. I rapped it with a hammer, and the heat shield didn't make a noise anything like I'm hearing. So, it doesn't sound like that's the real culprit here.
I just put a new hydraulic system and clutch in my brothers 2002 Saturn sl1. Now we tried to start it yesterday and nothing. Just barely clicked a few times at the starter. I tried jumping it and checked all the connections I could think of that came off while doing the clutch. Nothing. So as I was pulling him home from the shop I had him try to jump it at a slow speed and what do you know fires right up. When we got it home . Turned it off and again nothing it just clicks. So my question is would it be the starter , maybe battery cuz it had a terrible looking ground connection or is something else misaligned on the flywheel. I wouldn't think so since it started and all the gears worked. Its a manual obviously.
View 1 RepliesA friend just replaced my clutch in my 07 elantra and now the car wont start! it just cranks over?
View 1 RepliesSanta Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
View 12 RepliesSo I just put a new clutch in my 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l engine and a 5 speed T5OD transmission. The car will shift through all gears fine when turned off, but when I start it in neutral and push the clutch in, it won't shift into any gear. I can start it in first gear though with the clutch pedal in and it moves forward VERY slowly. The trans has enough fluid, and I already pulled up on the pedal to self adjust. Not exactly sure what else could be wrong.
View 19 RepliesI had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 RepliesI replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
View 1 Replies