Golf VI R :: Car Won't Slow Down At 2nd Gear / Gauge Cluster Lights Up
Jun 18, 2014
First, when I downshift to 2nd gear for instance, I don't feel like the car slows down any and I'm still needing to hit the brakes to slow down. In previous cars, going to 2nd would seem to make revs go up and slow the car down. Wondering if this is common on the Golf R to almost feel nothing when downshifting?
Second, my gauge cluster lights up when I'm driving outside w/o the lights on. When I go into a parking deck the gauge cluster starts out lit and then goes completely black except for the blue needles. Wondering if this is normal or if I have a cluster issue?
Car has 17,000 miles on it and completely stock minus the soundaktor removed.
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Just started happening today. Dash cluster beeps, all warning lights flash, then gauges and lights go dead while under acceleration or cruising. Upon stop and return to idle the dash starts to operate properly until I take my foot off the brake pedal and start to accelerate. Tried searching and didn't find anything. What are the possible causes?
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I bought my son his first vehicle, a 98 Bravada. We've had it less than a week and so far the major problem we have come across is the lights in for the gauge cluster in the dash are not coming on. First I thought it was a blown bulb so we replaced that. When we were putting the dash back together, I turned the truck on and turned on the headlights and got nothing. So I jiggled some wires thinking that it might've been a short or a loose wire and still nothing. It was getting dark so my son decided to put everything back together and try again in the morning. When he reconnected the connector for the dome/fog light, everything came back on. But when he moved the dashboard to put it back in place, everything went back out again. Again, I jiggled wires and nothing, not even a flicker. Now there's no lights in the dash and when he turns on the headlights, the radio lights go out along with the compass/MPG gauge located overhead.
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All of my interior lights went out. Except for dome lights etc. Here's a more detailed description. Every light effected by the dimmer on the left side near the ECS button don't work. I'm assuming it's a fuse.
Cluster gauges still work fine. The lights just don't work.
Note: Both headlights are out so I don't know if that could be connected in some way. Haven't been able to change them yet.
So, which fuse this would be? I can't seem to find it. Or if it could even be a fuse?
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My Gauge Cluster and Climate Control lights are out. Both still function properly. The mileage is light up and the turn singles work, the dummy lights even light up but when the headlights come on, the gauges don't illuminate. Same goes for the climate control; it works and the display is good but the buttons don't light up.
I replaced the headlight switch was I wasn't getting power to the light blue/red wire on the dimmer side. (Dr. Google told me to do this) Both failed at the same time so I'm thinking it is not a bulb issue. What to chase next?
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Any work around/fix for the gauge brightness dropping so dramatically with the headlights on? I have it maxed out on the rocker switch (brightest) but would like to be closer or equal to daytime brightness.
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Well I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.
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My father was driving his 2007 sport trac limited on his way home tonight and all of a sudden he lost all of the instruments in the gauge cluster. At the same time all the indicator lights came on. the truck kept running along with the air conditioning and radio, just lost the instrument cluster. almost like when you first turn the key on before starting. when he got home and turned the truck off, it would not re-start. when you turned the key on even the odometer was blank. when you tried to start it it wouldnt even try to crank. i unhooked the battery and hooked it back up. after about 5 key cycles of not starting like previously, it finally started.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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So recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
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have a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
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Noticed today that when I was in a parking garage the gauge lights were off, but when I pulled out into the sun they slowly illuminated. This must mean there is an ambient light sensor, which I didn't know, and can't that be tapped for an automatic headlight retrofit?
Have a 2011 TDI is that matters.....
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I would like to be able to have my cluster lighting always on, even if the lights are off. US MKVII Gti.. (DRL already turned off via vagcom)
On bright sunny days if i have my lights off, and partially because i have 85% tint, the cabin itself can be dark, and therefore it would be nice if i was actually able to see my dials, and not have to have the lights on.
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I have recently started digging a little deeper into an issue that started late fall and am stuck. I drove my car home from work and it seemed to be running just fine, I parked it, turned it off and went in for the night. The next morning, I went to start my car and it just cranked but didn't fire over.
Things I know:
1. When I turn the key, the fuel pump primes and I know it is building fuel pressure. I recently replaced the fuel pump, fuse 28 and pump relay.
2. I checked for spark and found that there is no spark when i pull a coil pack and touch it to the block. I also recently had all the coil packs replaced under the coil pack recall.
3. I get no indicator lights when I turn the key to the armed position (CEL, Battery, Central Display, Traction Control all absent).
4. The car is not throwing a code. I scanned it in VAGcom already.
5. I suspected a bad crank position sensor, so I replaced that and nothing.
So, I am stuck. I assume it might be the ignition switch as the lights on the display don't work in accessory mode but I am not sure. My radio works, blinkers, blower, headlights and all that too so that also leads me to think i might be wrong.
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So I had the strangest issue with my car last week. I was driving through my neighborhood at low speed (30 km/h) when the engine suddenly cut out. All the lights in the cluster turned off and I could not get the engine started again. It would not crank, there was simply no power to anything but the clock. I called a tow truck and when we were pulling it up onto the flatbed my cluster came back to life. I did not try starting the engine again however.
I dropped it off at my dealership. They've had it since last Friday and were not able to find a definite cause. No codes were found other than a MAF fault 1000 km's ago. They even had a mechanic drive it home to see if they could reproduce it on a "regular" drive. They did an ECU update because apparently there have been other cases across the country where the EGR valve will randomly open at the wrong time and choke the engine. I'm supposed to get the car back today but I find it unsettling that this could potentially happen again at any time.
I have had 2-3 times over the last 4 years where I got back to my car and I was not able to start the car. It would crank, sometimes even start for a few seconds and run really rough, then die again. Once I was able to get it started by repeated attempts, another time I had to get it boosted.
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I've got a 2006 Prius, it's done this a few times before but self-resolved, this time it stayed dead- cold morning pressed power- all the gear lights blinked on-off, the fuel gauge goes up and down and no ability to engage gears.
I jumped it and got it to look "normalish": in park, normal dashboard lights, etc but when I tried to engage the gear into drive it just wanted to go to neutral. i thought maybe it knows that it's still attached to the jumper so I unhooked all that and when I got back into the prius it was dead-dead again- no lights, nada. I was doing this by myself.
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I just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.8t today and have a few questions for some of you with vast knowledge on these cars.
1) When I lock the car the interior lights don't turn off, and about 5 seconds later the dash lights turn on. I sat outside in a lawn chair and waited 10 minutes to see if they would go off and they didn't. Would that be a faulty door switch or the CCM acting up?
2) Doing a 3" catless downpipe with 3" straight pipe?
3) Are there any major issues I should look out for? The car seems to be in pretty good mechanical condition, minus a loose exhaust hanger that rattles at idle. Not bad for 119,00 miles.
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So I just got a new car tonight (01 Jetta 1.8t) traded my tdi for it. They failed to tell me about the lighting problem. The dash light (blue ones that light up whole dash) only work sometimes. Don't work when headlight switch is on (have euro switch) but they will work sometimes if you put the left blinker or hazard lights on. Illumination for window / lock controls are glowing red, same as all the buttons by the vents up top of the radio, ac / climate control lights not working. They did end up telling me that they swapped the other car they had (2L golf mk4) and they swapped in that dash and it worked no issues. Do I need a whole new cluster?? Or is there something I can try to fix it?
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So I am getting a crinkle/pop noise going slow in 1st gear. I don't know if its the clutch or the gear itself. drives fine but the noise is pissing me off. its like a mixture of crinkles and pops .
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There's a clicking noise in the dash behind the headlight switch and all the cluster lights blink on and off when I turn the key. If I try to start it-nothing! If I pull the key out and try again all the blinker lights stay on. Could it be my aftermarket alarm or something else? I didn't have much luck searching.
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2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
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