Golf VI R :: Car Hesitate At High RPM
Mar 20, 2013
Today was the first time this happened. The car is modified as follows:
-APR Stage 1+ tune
-APR HPFP
-CTS Intake
-OE LEDs wired for fog, not that it matters for this
-2800 miles on the car, Stage 1 since 1000; 1+ since 1500.
I was flooring it in second and at the top of the RPM band, around 5500 to redline, the car was hesitating ever so slightly. It felt almost like it was bouncing off the rev limiter; but it wasn't. So I shifted into third and rode it out to redline and again, same feeling of hesitation.
After that, I was where I was going (grocery store). After leaving I got on it again first, to second, to third paying very close attention. This time there was only a very small hesitation at the very top of second; I may have made it up it was so faint in comparison to the precious hesitation.
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After reversing the car and coming to a stop to change to drive the car seems to bog down like the engine is dying or hesitating but then will pick back up and then start moving forward.
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I have an '02 GTI VR6. It died on me on the freeway after surging then limping to a stop and wouldn't restart. I replaced my fuel pump 5 months ago and now I suspect that it has died again, but I want to be absolutely sure that the pump is the problem before I replace it again.
Last time the car would sometimes hesitate in 1st and 2nd for a couple weeks before the pump actually went bad. This time it seemed fine for 5 months then just went out.
The pump does not prime when I open the door. I checked fuse #28 and it's not blown, but there doesn't seem to be any power to it. I tested the power to the fuel pump connector. When I turn the key on I get ~12v for a split second then nothing. While cranking the engine I get ~9v constantly. I hooked a square 9v battery straight to the two outside connectors on the pump and nothing happened.
Can I be sure that the pump is the only problem? Obviously it's dead, but is there any reason for fuse 28 to not be getting power? And should the connector only be getting power for a split second when the ignition is turned on? I tried a different fuel pump relay with no change.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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Alright I did a search and found these threads with no final resolution on each. My new 2013 has the whistling noise at high speeds (65+) and high winds. It's for sure not from the engine and coming from both the driver and passenger mirrors. I can hear it with either or both front windows down but not back windows. No whistle at idle or due to high RPMs. What is the Jetta TSB # or a fix for this issue.
[URL] .....
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In the morning, when i go to pick up my news paper at local convenience store, the van is running rough and hesitate when accelerating.When i take the van 1 hous later, it will run smoothly and there will be no hesitation and i will be good for the rest of the day.
If i skip the trip to convenience store and the first thing in the morning i do a long trip, let's say 2 hours trip, the van will run rough all the way during those 2 hours.
When the van is running rough it will stay in this state until it's turned off, wait and restarted again.
When the van is running smoothly, it will stay in this state until next morning.
While driving, it never happened that the smooth running engine became running rough and the opposite is also true. It never hapenned while driving that the rough running engine became smooth.
I suspect that at engine start up, a parameter is stored and kept in memory until the car is turned off, wait and restarted again.
DTC code P0336 and P1174
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I have a 2003 Grand AM GT 3.4 with 166,000 miles, its hard to explain but will try. When your first taken off the car seems like its holding back, but then once you hit 3,000 rpm's with the gas pedal still pressed the same amount the car takes right off like it has a power band. Same thing regardless happens all the time under 3,000rpm.
Going down the highway at 70 and you start to go up a slight incline, you give it a little gas and you can feel the car having lack of power, then you press a bit more on the gas and it kicks down a gear and goes. Then back in the same situation once back under 3,000 rpm.
The car idles normal, check engine light will come on once in a while, but goes back off before i have a chance to see what code it is. I do notice when the check engine light comes on, you can feel the car lack power for just a second. I just replaced the o2 sensor today thinking it was that.
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My wife was driving this morning and she said that the car engine started to hesitate and shake a lot, engine light came on, started to bling. Called road assistance and they did a great work towing the car in less than half hour. Also noticed a rotten egg smell from the exhaust or engine.
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My brother and I both drive Chevy S10 ZR2s, 2001 and 1998 respectively, and they both have the same problem(s). Initially, the first minute after starting, the trucks will backfire and hesitate, which is most apparent when traveling up hill because if the engine hesitates when traveling up hill, we don't go anywhere. However, after this initial minute, the truck perform just fine, mostly.
The only time that they will not perform well after this initial minute is if we go to pass someone on the highway and need to accelerate harder to do so. If we do this, the same symptoms described earlier return, but they will not go away unless the trucks are shut off and allowed to "rest" for a few minutes. A similar problem was described in last week's show, but that was for a carbureted S10 and I'm pretty sure that ours are EFI.
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I have a 2004 Kia Spectra EX (2.0L Engine) that has begun to sputter and hesitate when I am accelerating, regardless of whether I am accelerating from a standstill or on the highway. It feels like the engine is either not getting enough gas, or that the air/gas mixture is not correct. The car has almost 150,000 miles and we have recently (within last 10,000 miles) changed the spark plugs and air filters. Where to begin looking? The car, from what I can find, does not have a PCV; otherwise, that would be my first suspicion.
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I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
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Experiencing hesitation/misfiring/bogging down sensation under light to moderate acceleration. Manual transmission, and sometimes feels like bucking by a novice stick-shift driver. Starts fine, idles fine when cold or hot. Will accelerate fine when cold, but only for a few minutes or less than a mile until it's warmed up enough. Have checked and tested many ignition and carburetor related items until narrowing it down to EGR system, which is only operating once warmed up, and not at idle, so that part of the system is working OK. If I disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve, runs fine with no hesitation, but pings or knocks badly (as expected). Symptoms all point to too much EGR flow. With no computer or codes to check.
Have tested both EGR valve and EGR Vacuum Modulator, and both seem fine. EGR valve hold vacuum. Found and cleaned some carbon build-up, and pintle stem doesn't seem to stick. Vacuum modulator tested by blowing air into Q port while blocking P & R and air passes thru small bleed off hole. Filter had small dark burnt looking spot at bleed off hole - don't know if that's normal or not. Also tested modulator by simultaneously apply pressure to bottom port (to simulate exhaust pressure) while applying pressure to Q port, with P & R still blocked. Bleed off hole slowly stopped flowing air as pressure built up. About to roll the dice and replace modulator (less expensive of the two). Without trying to add more confusion, have wondered if a clogged cat convertor would cause enough increase in exhaust pressure to make modulator send too high a vacuum signal to valve. While the truck is old, it only has 50k miles, and no real modifications.
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I bought New Camry 2014.5 LE. Most of time, my wife drives for short commutes to train stations and work. Its been 1.5 year and it still has less than $10K miles.
I feel it hesitates when I push the accelerator all the way quickly, then jerks. The engine revs up the moment I step on the accelerator but it hesitates before it actually picks up speed. If I step on the gas gradually, its fine.
I have Rav4 (4 Cyc) which does not behave this way.
I took the dealership and asked about it. The tech says it is drive by wire system so unlike old cars, which respond very quickly, may hesitate and considered normal. Some online article says the car's software learns a driving habit so it depends on the driver too but many other postings also suggest its a software glitch.
Is it really normal, a feature of 6 speed or is there a technical service bulletin addressing this issue so that I can show to the tech? Eco mode is turned off.
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My question is: Can my car last about 1.5 weeks? My work is 20 mins away. I can definitely avoid the freeway.
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