Golf VI R :: Can't Turn Off The Engine With Key
Aug 4, 2015
Think I need a new battery in my key ad it's been acting up a bit. I am sitting in my car right now, key won't lock or unlock doors and I can't stop the engine.
View 24 RepliesThink I need a new battery in my key ad it's been acting up a bit. I am sitting in my car right now, key won't lock or unlock doors and I can't stop the engine.
View 24 RepliesThe fans in the engine bay wont turn off. As long as the car is on they run. they do turn off when the car is off.
View 10 RepliesLast night I went to the bowling lanes with some work friends (didn't do so hot). When I went to leave and start the car... well, the R wouldn't start. There was plenty of power and I could tell it wanted to go, but the engine just wouldn't turn over. After a few tries the monitor gave a "STOP! Oil pressure Engine off!" display. I'm not sure what the deal is. The car just turned 10k miles and there is plenty of oil in the engine.
View 16 Replies1999 Jetta 2.0l Engine Will Not Turn Over. The Battery Is Not That Old. Lights,radio Work. Oddly Enough The Trunk Will Not Open. It Acts As If A Fuse Is Blown And Shut Ignition Down. Windows won't go up or down. and my trunk stays on.
View 1 RepliesMy golf, made in 2008 (1.6 FSI, petrol), has a tricky problem now. When I turn on its engine for the first time in the morning, its RPM goes over 10 (12~13) with louder sound than normal. So I turn it off and on again, and then everything becomes immediately fine: RPM is below 10 and the sound is just fine. After that, the problem does not happen again all day. But it happens in the next morning when I turn on the engine for the first time in the day!!
View 2 RepliesSo, I decided to re-code the car such that the radio does not shut off when I turn off the engine (KESSY) but rather when I open the door to get out. It's accomplished by recording the instrument cluster to think it's a UK cluster. Well, when I did that the area that usually displays the outside temp is displaying my speed in KPH. I changed the coding back to US and it didn't work. The temp is displayed if I choose to have the car stats displayed like miles till empty and such but that's not usually what I have displayed. Funnily enough, I do like knowing what the outside temp is.
View 17 RepliesDeveloped a problem that I'm trying to research a bit to see if there is a common problem. Haven't really seen too much info yet, other than a potential clutch switch that will continue to display "depress clutch!" That's not my problem.
I don't drive this thing more than once a month or so. But occasionally I'll drive it to work for week or less.
Basically, every once in a while I'll try to start the engine and the starter will engage and turn the engine for about 1/2 second and then stop. All lights on the dash stay on. I'll reset the key, and it will usually then start normally on the next try. Sometimes it does the same thing on the second attempt.
Battery is 100% topped up, as it stays on a battery tender. Battery load test shows great. Connections are tight and clean.
The other day I cleaned the main B+ terminal on the starter, made sure the terminal jamb nut was tight and cleaned; then assembled the terminal and torqued. Removed, cleaned and re-torqued the top bolt on the starter. Cleaned and re-tightened the main grounds. Also cleaned the solenoid connection and made sure it fit back on securely.
Was fine for about 6 starts then it did the same thing again.
The last work I did on the car was a clutch upgrade (myself)...literally almost a year ago. I've driven it about...500 or less miles since. So I'd have assumed bad starter connections, but I think I've ruled those out. I didn't drop the subframe, just the transmission. the problem did start pretty much immediately after that job and hadn't done it at all before that job.
So what other interconnects are in the system to control the starter? Relays, control modules, switches, sensors...I'm sure all of the above. Something is allowing the starter to turn for 1/2 second and then drops it.
Perhaps the battery is dropping below voltage while cranking and something is aborting the start?
I haven't really done much diagnosing other than a simple load test on the battery. I haven't taken voltage readings under cranking, voltage drops across wires or voltage readings at terminals yet. Ugh..I really just don't feel like it. Maybe I'll just dump the car into the Pasquotank River.
Not that it really matters, but I've also installed an APR K04, full exhaust, Carbino intake...I don't know what else. But it was all done quite a while ago, by me. This second clutch I've done seems to have been the thing that triggered this particular problem.
I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
So Ive been having really annoying electrical issues with my Jetta. Everything works fine when driving, but sometimes when I turn it off after driving for about 20 min, the car electronics will not turn off and the engine will continue to run for about 7 seconds with the key out of the ignition and then sputter to a stop. The electronics do not turn off after the engine has stopped. I ripped apart the interior to look at relays and the ignition switch. They all look fine and they look like they are grounding fine. Do you think it might just be a bad ignition switch?
View 2 RepliesCar is a 1999.5 Mk4 Jetta GLS 2.0
I went to Discount Tire today to have my tires changed. Afterwards, my car wouldn't start or even turn over. My power windows wouldn't go up or down, the dome light wouldn't come on, the power door locks wouldn't work, and the trunk latch wouldn't work.
My gas door will open using the switch.
What happened was - I walked with the service tech out to my car, handed him my key, and he got in my car. Somehow he activated the alarm and deactivated it right away. He started the car and drove to the service bay. They did the tire change. Went I went to my car, I noticed the trunk was open and the trunk light was on as well as the radio (at low volume). I turned the radio off, tried to start the car, and all the dash lights came on but the car didn't turn over. Thats when I noticed that most of the aforementioned power features wouldn't work. They tried to give me a jump start, but it wouldn't turn over. They needed the service bay so they pushed the car out (with me in it) backwards and I was told to pop it into reverse to roll start it. That worked. I still could not operate any of the power features previously mentioned. When I got home I shut the car off and tried starting it again - no go.
So now I have a dead car with power features that wont work. I have a scanner tool and I'm going to scan for fault codes, but would like some input. The scanner is not a Rosstech.
I'm having an issue with my fans on my radiator. They don't turn on when the engine gets warm and the A/C is off. I've replaced the crack pipe, water pump, and belt tensioner. I've replaced the fans not to long ago because the low speed wasn't working. I tested low speed at the fan connector and it wasn't working. After replacing fans I tested and it was working when jumping the pins on the thermo switch connector. I got both low and high speeds to work during that test. I've since replaced the thermo switch to see if it would fix the issue but the fans still won't come on without turning the A/C on. Any other tests I could do or should I just try to get another thermo switch.
View 4 RepliesI have an odd problem. My AC will not activate until the engine gets hot enough that the radiator fans turn on. Once they do, the engine RPMs drop, the clutch kicks in, and I get frosty cold air with no problems. I already replaced my FCM and checked all fuses. It worked consistently all last summer and considering the AC is nice and cold once it kicks in, I don't think this is a pressure issue and it was recharged at the beginning of last summer by a good shop.
I changed my coolant flange a few months ago, same temp sensor. Didn't try AC back then as it was cool outside still. Could this have something to do with it? I have proper readout on my dash. Maybe it's the ambient temp sensor?
2.0 Getta GL AEG 230,000 miles.
When I go to turn my car on, I have to give it 3 or 4 tries. The try before it actually turns on goes like this: turn key, engine sounds like it wants to turn, almost starts for a split second, and then shuts off. After this I can usually turn it on.
Usually the rpm's would be around 1.3k on a cold start, but when I finally get it to start it automatically dips below 1k. Then when I go to drive it, it feels like it wants to shut off on that first throttle push. It started with just an issue in cold weather, but has gotten progressively worse. Battery is only a few months old.
My car Mk4 Gti has not been starting recently, showing all the symptoms of a dead battery. When I try to start it clicks or sometimes if there's more juice the engine attempts to turn over once or twice.
The weird thing is this started happening in conjunction with my monsoon head unit randomly dying. The radio was dead for a while and my battery would randomly die. Then I fixed the radio by reseating the fuse on the back and the problem went away.
Just today I started my car and everything was fine sitting in my driveway. Then I noticed that the battery light was on, and then my head unit died. I turned my car off to try and fix the radio issue and then it wouldn't start back up. Not sure what the issue is.....
I have an 03 2.0 jetta manual shifter. Never had issues before this morning. Got in car and sounded like it wanted to turn but wouldnt turn over. After a few attempts the turning sound stopped and I heard an electric pop. Now engine won't even try turning when I turn key it just clicks and engine makes a high pitch noise. Took starter and battery out got both tested and they are fine...
View 3 RepliesAfter running to operating temp, if the car is turned off then restarted (like you would at a gas station, which is where I notice this) the engine will turn and turn and turn but not fire. I have noticed that stomping on the acceleration will cough it into life during this procedure. This doesn't happen every time and I have recently run high octane gas during a long distance trip.
106K miles...
Recent p0441 fault codes and gas cap warning light...
No other problems or codes...
I just got a new switch from the dealer, only rear fog control (don't have OEM LED's yet), and I want to turn to the right one position, but the HID's come on, and no city lights. What am I missing?
I have a VCDS... [URL] .....
Why the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
I would like to start off by saying I am new to this forum. I bought a 2005 Jetta GLI a couple of months ago and from the first day I noticed that occasionally when I would lock it with the alarm, the right turn signal would stay on. It was not much of a problem as I would just press the lock on the remote again a couple of times to turn it off. Lately it has become more frequent and annoying. I have to wait up to an hour so I can finally turn it off through the remote. I was thinking the relay probably.
View 15 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
Drove it last night around 9pm. Parked it and went to drive it again this morning around 7:30. No cold weather here or rain. Here is what I know: When I turn the key I hear a click (not a repeating click) but the engine doesn't turn over. Batteries have 12.5 volts. I put my trickle charger on them and had full charge after about 3 or 4 minutes. When I turn the key the headlights do not go dim. I put a screw driver across the solenoid on the passenger side fender and got a strong arc. When I do that, I can also hear another click that sounds like its coming from the engine. I tapped the starter a few times with a hammer, but it still wont turn over. I'm guessing bad starter.
View 14 Replies