Golf VI R :: CEL On During 3rd Gear Pull When Merging Onto Highway
Jun 19, 2013
As we know, flashing dash lights are a part of owning a Volkswagen. Even moreso a modded Volkswagen. Last night I was treated to my first CEL during 3rd gear pull merging onto the highway. At 4200 RPM, the car cut timing and throttle ferociously and the CEL came on and flashed for about 10 seconds. The road was rough so I anticipated that it was the car registering a knock and Bronson said it could've been that. I pulled over, checked everything I could visually at 1:00 AM and it all seemed fine. Car accelerated and boosted well from then on, on the way home.
This morning I got in for the drive to work and noticed within 2-3 miles that the car was idling strangely. Not long after, the CEL came on. It would surge from 1,000 to 1,300 RPM randomly. I took it back home to pick up my VCDS and my laptop and scanned the following codes:
Code:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Since then I have checked:
- Intake hoses/clamps
- Intercooler hoses/clamps
- Diverter valve hoses/clamps
- Throttle body pipe/clamps
- PCV hoses (The PCV on the valve cover was replaced by the BFI catch can. It has been on the car for over 6,000 miles with no issues, and all of the fittings are tight.)
- Boost tap hoses/clamps
I reset the codes and drove it to work and all was well, but I'm staying out of boost until I find out what the problem is. The car has stock plugs, stock coils and stock DV and only 7,800 miles.
Thread here with the full VCDS scan: [URL] ....
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As the title says.... it slipped on a first gear pull and then another time on the highway on the on ramp in high RPM in second....
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Last week I was on a dive trip and my RX remained parked outside for a week. As I was returning home and I was merging on the highway my CEL appeared; I used my scanner and the code was p2195, which I cleared. My RX was driven for about 5 minutes before merging onto the highway.
On my way home I needed to stop for gas, I filled up and them merged onto the highway and the CEL came on again. I used the scanner and the same code p2195- which I cleared.
I completed my drive home, and have only been doing short city driving since then an no CEL's.
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2006 GX470 57000 miles loaded. I purchased this new and I was wondering if anyone on here can give me a bit of input on what you may think is going on.
My truck when merging onto a high speed roadway my truck doesn't seem to want to shift into the next gear. Almost like if it was a manual I would have to shift it. It really whines out before it shifts.
Also My husband is hearing a humming/vibration from the rear when we are doing about 65 steady I've already had my tires removed and checked to see if I may have thrown a weight or a broken belt but everything is good. I have Michelins on the truck and they are about 2 yrs old. No damage on the tires I have them rotated every 5000 miles.
I had the truck in for service and told them about this. The Lexus service rep told me his mechanic told him he found nothing. I asked them to check again and he said the mechanic would take it home to drive it at a speed that was needed. Again I was told nothing was found. Got the truck back from the seat repair don't even think the truck was taken home.
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Last night it was just below freezing and the roads were a little damp so I figured I'd see at what point ESP would kick in on a hard 2nd gear pull. Sure enough power cuts off at around 4000-4500 rpm.
Turn "off" ESP, try another hard 2nd gear pull expecting some nice tire squeal but I get nothing and obviously still no traction from 4500-6000 rpm. Was my clutch slipping? Is ESP capable of knowing when the clutch is slipping (I would think it had nothing to do with it)? Maybe it was just damp enough that the rubber was spinning in one place but it wasn't making any/limited amount of noise?
Car: GTI, Manual, Stage 1, Winter Tires.
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I got my Passat about 1 month ago, and I have this pull to the right. Which is annoying, as I drive quite a bit on the highway.
At the dealer, they "fixed" it by moving the tires around and matching tires with the same side wall rigidity. I got my car back, and it's still pulling to the right.
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My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
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I have a 2010 GTI and I got the APR 93 octane chip about 6000 miles ago. The other day I pushed the gas to pass a car on the highway in 6th gear and it sounded like my clutch slipped a bit. It made me quite nervous as the car only has 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping maybe it just got glazed over a bit.
All of my other cars had manual transmission so it's not my driving skills and I don't beat on my car either. My last 2002 GTI had 150,000 miles on it when I sold it and 140,000 of those were chipped. Never once did that clutch slip.
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I notice whenever I'm on the highway traveling between 60-70mph and at part throttle, I hear a hum that I would best describe as a gear whine which sounds to be coming from the rear. I'm taking it to the dealer next week to be checked.
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My car was having a strange power issue after I went stage 1+. This occurred 3 separate times and always at the same moment in acceleration. I would be on the highway on ramp shifting from 5th to 6th and the car would just die, the turbo completely quit functioning. When this occurred the car had no power and would consume fuel like crazy. Each time this happened it was over 90 degrees outside. If I parked the car and let it sit for 10 minutes before re-starting it would be back to normal. Since going 2+ this has not occurred. I don't know if this was a protection mode implemented by the ecu or what.
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New to the board- sold my b6 passat for '12 GTI manual.
Its been a few years since i've owned a stick so I'm not sure if this noise is normal or just because the car as 100 miles on it OR just because I'm a freak when it comes to hearing every little noise.
But when i'm say in 5th or 6th gear on the highway and give it some gas I hears some noise like a fluttering vibration noise for a second or two and then it goes away? It sounds like its coming from right underneath me. Its not a huge deal but on my first brand new car, I'd rather just have someone tell me its normal or if it needs to be fixed or a bolt tightened or something.
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1997 licoln continental, automatic. Around first and second gear, the car hesitates to pull and will 'jerk'. While it's doing this the car can be revved unsynchronized as it will try to 'jerk' it's way past around 1st and 2nd gear. Eventually, it smooths out after it's into 3rd gear and drives normally though after roughly getting through 1st and 2nd.
In 1st and 2nd gear, if the gas is let off for a bit before smoothing out.. it will often sometimes completely come out of gear, not pulling from any power given. If it does, after popping out of gear the car will not go back into gear, even from a complete stop from 'park' then trying to put it back into 'drive'..no response to power given. However, it goes back into gear just fine, roughly again, if you turn the car completely off and put it back into 'drive'. Obviously, the car also will hesitate even worse on an incline from a dead stop.
Another note, there is a slight wobble to the crankshaft pulley.. though, i feel this issue is completely unrelated to a harmonic balancer noting that the car just pops out of gear and goes back in gear just fine when it is turned back off then back on.....but, not unless the car is completely turned off?What would the obvious culprit be...? Torque converter?
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I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
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This has happened maybe 3 times in the last month. Once merging on to the freeway. Another while cruising 70 in the carpool lane. And the last one I was leaving the job site and it did it.
What I'm talking about is a quick like cut out or stall. Maybe a second of time then back to normal. It also makes a clunk sound. You know these things are hard to describe.
Just don't want to freeze up on the freeway and cause a wreak. Also can I tell from my vin.# if I have limited slip or posi.
Ford Ranger xlt extended cab
2 wheel drive, 4.OL Auto .........
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I'm looking at purchasing a 2003 F-350 from a Ford Dealer, Drove the Vehicle last night and the Gear shiftier was very tight and hard to pull down. Is this a real concern? The Sales guys said its better to be stiff rather than sloppy. But they will say anything, right. The vehicle is a deal and so I'm looking to find out why.
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Whenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
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I have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
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I have had my car for two weeks and I noticed a rattling noise when I pull out in drive (DSG). It only rattles sometimes and at very low rpm for about two or three seconds and it goes away. The dealership has looked at it twice and didn't find anything. Of course, when I drove around with the mechanic it didn't rattle. Someone posted a video with some flex pipe noise which is very similar to what I am experience but it was mentioned on it that the rattle should go away after some miles. I already have 700 miles and still rattles. Dealership said the exhaust wasn't loose.
I finally got my GTI after having a hard time letting my beloved Rabbit go away and this noise is keeping me awake at night.
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Is it just me experiencing this weird behavior...When I open my doors with the key fob, I pull the handle and the door doesnt open. It does open a little bit, but its still latched closed. Pulling the handle again opens the door.
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My left side, rear door I have to pull the handle two times to open the door.
1st time: opens 1/4 inch
2nd time: fully opens
I checked the problem a bit, saw the same problem on a MKV where they opened the handle and they had to adjust a little thingy ?
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I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
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