Golf VI R :: CEL Came On And Staying?


Aug 29, 2012

This morning when I fired the car up the check engine light came on. Waited a bit and tried again still there. Waited all day and one last test and it seems to be on for good. The car seems to be running fine as far as I could tell with out really driving it.

The car is not driven hard and has 2.3k mileage. Should I contact APR or the shop that did the install?

This is my first chipped car so I'm a little unsure about what the best approach is here. I'm also a little nervous to drive the car to the shop with the light on.

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Yesterday i was on my way to fill 100oct, on my way i encountered heavy rains and big puddles. After 15-20min drive to the gas station i filled her up and setup the 100oct tune, after i noticed the check engine light was on and epc light too.

So i set her back to stock tune and back to 100oct tune and the CEL went away but the epc light wont go away. Why it stayed on? The car still runs good.

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Also, what resistor to remove the coolant level sensor? I would like to rid my dash of that annoying light.

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I have a 03 jetta 1.8t the asr light comes on and stays on and i cant shut it off if i turn the car off it goes off and then like 10 min later it comes on. Why its happening

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I have a 1.6 8v mk4 Golf, and my fans started staying on all the time. There are 2 coolant sensors on this model, one is the green one, and the other is the black one which seems to be hardwired into the thermostat housing. Anyway, I changed the green one, and that didn't solve it, so changed the whole thermostat, which obviously came with a new sensor build on....Hey, it worked, for 2 weeks, and then the fans started coming on again as soon as you turned the ignition key...and the temp needle doesn't move much, as before.

My suspicions have moved to the sensor wiring loom, that was fiddled with, while changing the thermostat...I hear they can become brittle over time, and so behave as if the sensor is unplugged, i guess.... Do these wires unplug anywhere in there so I can test the loom properly?

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Short version is that my battery is not staying charged. I drive the car daily and am not having any serious issues except for having to put a charger on overnight about once a month or so since this past winter. The current battery (Optima red top) has never gone dead and has been more reliable than the original, it just cranks progressively slower each time I start the car until the day comes that I decide to put the charger on again.

All the lights flicker and dim when driving at night, and have been like that for a few years. When it began, I had the charging system checked three separate times. Once at the dealership who told me everything was fine, once at an Advance Auto who said all was well except for there being an above normal load on the battery with the engine/all accessories off , and once at an alternator/electric motor specialist who said all was well except that the alternator was not capable of generating enough to keep the battery charged long term. They said if I ever got stuck in traffic and sat at idle with the ac/stereo on for an extended period that I shouldn't shut it off since I may not have enough power to crank it again . At first I thought they were going to suggest that I have them repair/rebuild/upgrade it somehow, but they really had no interest in doing so.

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I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.

At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.

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I will be replacing the 12 volt battery tonight because it needs to be replaced. Would that cause this to happen?

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