Golf VI R :: Brakes Squeaking - Caliper Pin Completely Loose
Mar 9, 2015
I have the TyrolSport Brake Caliper stiffening kit on my R. My brakes were squeaking and I had not greased the pins in a bit so I thought that might be the issue. When I went to grease them, I notice one pin was completely loose. It was my driver front lower. I greased it and tightened it back up. That was maybe 2 -3 week ago. I checked again on Friday before my track day on Saturday and the same pin was lose. Not all the way like last time, but not locked tight. This one pin is the only one that seems to have issues. The other three are rock solid.
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2001 Explorer sport trac. I had a shop install new front pads because I couldn't brake the caliper bolts loose. I noticed they didn't use any grease on the pads from what I can see, and there has been a quiet rubbing/squeaking sound coming from the wheels (mainly when pressing the brakes). I assume it's the brake pads/caliper parts that still need to be greased. I have the right kind of grease and I'm about to do it, but what parts of the pads/caliper assembly need to be greased?
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I have a 1999 F150 Supercab, 2wd. I just replaced the front rotors, calipers, and pads. Before I did this, the front right caliper was locking up completely. Now, after the new stuff is installed, the truck pulls very hard to the left when braking. The harder you brake, the harder it pulls left. What should I look at next?
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I have a '13 GTI Autobahn Edition...
40K miles on it, and the rear brakes are squeaking.
I have some new rotors and pads picked out, but i dont know if i have the Bosch or the Girling rear calipers...
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So I'm at the dealership because my brakes have been squeaking at low speeds for the last two months. They measured the rotor thickness and checked the pads and calipers. Their response is that this is a common problem in Texas humidity with the type of brake pads that are used. Apparently almost everyone is dealing with this.
New pads or to shave my rotors are not covered under warranty.
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So I just installed the Porsche Cayenne 18Z calipers onto my GTI. The install went great but now when I go around corners at speed there's a squeaking sound that comes from the brakes. I tried to epoxy the hub centric ring onto the rotor and grease up the outside of the hub where the rotor sits, but it's still squeaking.
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My 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
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Ive had plenty of brake issues with this truck since I've owned it and I finally got to inspect a brake i knew was having issues. The outside pad was metal on metal. The inside pad was gone and the one piston was extended completely open while the other one was closed. So to the question. Ive bled it like i do any other caliper and no luck. I went an bled all the other calipers and still no luck. The brakes seem to be working ok even though i never really tested them super hard but the pedal is far lower then it was before.
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I recently had a dealership mechanic check out a couple of annoying noises my 2012 Jeep Liberty had been making for a few months. The one that really bothers me is a squeak coming from under the hood. It squeaks pretty constantly when I'm accelerating at all, only stops when I brake. Now, I'm totally clueless about cars and I realize how easy it would be for me to be taken advantage of, but I don't want to be bitchy to the guys fixing my car. I was told this squeak is the brake caliper slide so I told them to go ahead and fix it. The guy comes back 3 hours later (had to order the part) and says he's replaced the part and did all he could but it still squeaks. Am I being jerked around? Should I just take it elsewhere for a second opinion?
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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I have a 2004 grand prix gt, within the last couple of days, it seems to loose power on acceleration and the motor completely dies at times. After waiting 10 seconds or so it will crank but may die again or just feel like it is loping. The problem is getting worse quickly. I have replaced the fuel filter. This did not stop the problem. I thinking it may be the fuel pump. If it is the fuel pump is there any way to verify this to be sure it is the problem before replacing it?
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I have a 2007 Sonata V6 I bought used two years ago. When I bought it mechanic serviced the rear brakes as the caliper was sticking. Now the rear brakes make a grinding noise when I brake and when I drive the rear brakes make a sound like slight metal on metal contact. I know Sonatas are known for brake problems. Should I replace the rear pads, rotors, calipers (including pins) and if so what brands are decent to buy? I have used rock auto in the past.
My car has about 198,000km on it (123,000 miles).
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My '04 Prius is currently at 134k miles and I've noticed for a while that the front suspension feels and sounds "loose" over small bumps and imperfections on the road.
I also just started noticing some squeaking noise coming from the axle/hub when I first drive off in the morning.
I first thought the loose feeling could be worn out shocks, but I'm starting to worry that it would be something else.
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After a routine brake pad replacement the brake pedal hits the floor when applied with normal force. The pedal feels like a badly leaking master cylinder, but prior to the pad replacement the brake pedal was firm as a rock with no drop at all. If I pump the brakes the pedal will come up to normal height, but if I then maintain light pressure the pedal will again sink to the floor.
1. Truck was braking fine, however pad 3/4 worn
2. Replaced front calipers, rotors and pads
3. Replaced front brake feed hoses
4. Replaced rear pads
5. Started engine
6. Started bleeding from furthest point from MC a) passenger rear, b) Driver Rear, c) passenger front, d)driver front. Did it two times...
Still, brake travels all the way to the fire wall and never develops tension. Moreover, sometimes, when person pumping brake puts pressure and i open bleed, no fluid comes out. Could it be a failed master cylinder??? I tend to think it's not because 24hrs ago, the pedal felt fine and the truck was braking ok.... So much for preventive maintenance.
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While I was trying to park, I heard a clunk, wheels stayed in the same position. The steering wheel is loose as hell, it literally feels like its buttered up and wont turn the wheels at all, what to buy to fix it? I am thinking I just need a new gearbox....
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The caliper/bracket has worn down on the front brakes to the point that I am replacing pads couple of times a year and they vibrate excessively when braking hard like on a hill. on other year years, these parts are separate and bolted together, on the 95 it is one welded piece . I cant seem to find a replacement part, even when trying to order the entire wheel hub assembly it doesn't show/specify if that part is attached. I did find replacements at a junk yard but they too were worn. Is it possible to convert to another year wheel hub assembly?
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I pulled a brake caliper off for inspection, and when I reinstalled it, I managed to strip one of the holes on the caliper bracket when putting one of the 7mm bolts back in - haste makes waste, ya? So, I am trying to find out my options, is it possible to get it re-threaded, helicoiled, or is it toast and I need to buy a new one?
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I have a 1999 F350 single rear wheel Superduty truck that will not allow the right rear caliper to fully release. I replaced the caliper/mounting hardware/pads/rotor. The problem continued so I replaced the rubber hose to the caliper. Problem continues. I'm thinking possibly the center rubber brake line at the differential (where it splits and goes right/left) but at this point I am guessing. Maybe proportionate valve but I know nothing about them.
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Was replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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This bad squeaking, loose rattling and (sometimes) banging noise from the left rear started happening about a couple weeks ago. I've removed all interior panels, even the exterior bumper thinking there was something loose and nothing. I suspect as a last resort it has to be the suspension despite the car having only 17k km.
What is strange is the rattle increases in sound volume and occurs more often the longer you drive and also if temperatures get colder.
In other words, if I have the car parked in my garage overnight (slightly above 0 C) and immediately drive next morning into sub-freezing temps and on bumpy roads, you don't hear it. But after 5-10 minutes of driving, you start to hear it and gets louder and more frequent.
Searched other threads and some have reported the shock as the problem for 2010/2011 models, but none had any sound or video to compare.
The video shows how bad it is : [URL] ....
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