Golf VI R :: Brake Pedal Is So Stiff - Brakes Barely Engage
Apr 25, 2013
This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
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I've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
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This morning my brakes seized up on me on the freeway. I noticed it when I pressed the brake pedal and I it would barely go down. Then, I could smell the brakes. I pulled over and there was a strong smell from the brakes and I couldn't press the brake peddle down any. I waited a while and let the brakes cool off and then they were fine. I got the rear brakes replaced at the dealership earlier this year.
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My girlfriend now encountered a brake problem twice: In those situations she needed to brake but the pedal was really stiff, did hardly move and the car did not brake. Only long hard pushing finally succeeded. The second time she nearly got into an accident because of this so we took the car to the dealer then who found nothing and said the brakes are ok. I drove the car the first 5k miles and never had such a problem.
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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
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What would cause the brakes on my wife's truck to be stiff and not hold?
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I have an issue when I go to start the car after it sits for as little as 30 min.The brake pedal is stiff and its hard to start since you have to depress the brake pedal prior to starting the car .
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Have a 13 Sonata Limited 2.0t and for some reason it won't start.
Also brake pedal is extremely stiff. Tried to push start button several times while pressing brake, and dash lights just blink several times.
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3300 miles in, and my brake pedal is extremely hard/stiff when I attempt to start the car. I don't have issues getting it to turn on, but it literally moves maybe 1/4 inch at most. It just randomly started doing this.
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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I own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
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I've been noticing that when I step on it some times my clutch pedal seems to get stiff and if I press on it a couple times its normal again. This has been going on for awhile now and I've just been driving it normal but when I do decide to get on it then the pedal will get stiff..
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The brakes will not engage until the brake peddle is at least 1/3 of the way down, resulting in a big delay in time to stop. In stop and go traffic it is very dangerous. I have to actually "ride" the brake in rush hour traffic in order to be ready for a quick traffic problem as this brake system is very slow to respond. This is obviously a safety flaw in manufacturing or design but it must be fixed as its not a matter of if an accident will occur but when will it occur. I test drove another LX 570 and found the same brake issue with that unit as well.
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I own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
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Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
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On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
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I have an ABS issue. Coming off the free way ramp my abs will engage when I apply the brake peddle. This only happens turning right. doing the same to the left seems to feel something but not as apparent as to the right. I have no ABS light on and no code.
Last year I replaced the left front wheel hub. but didn't have any issues until this. One more thing I was getting a feeling on my brake pedal last week as if my front rotors needed to be replaced. So I did. Rotors and pads. still feel the same. could my rear rotors need replacing as well?
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I went driving today and for a moment I could engage/disengage the clutch pedal with little to no effort. It goes back to the normal force after 3-4 shifts.
It's the exact opposite of what's happening in this thread. [URL] ....
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