Golf VI R :: Boost Will Hit 20 - 24 Psi And Start Creeping Down To About 4 At 6500 RPM
Apr 15, 2015
I upgraded to APR II+ about two months ago and have been having the following issue that has been getting more frequent. During full throttle, now even not at full throttle, the boost will hit 20-24 psi and start creeping down to about 4 at 6500 rpm. I can hear what sounds like the waste hate just dumping in the mid to high rpms. The car feels like it's making no power and when I hit peak recall on my P3cars gauge it will read between 22.1 and 25.1. I have a feeling it's the N75 valve, or whatever it's called. Just wanted some input before I went out to get one. Other info car is at 24,xxx miles, just did an oil change, use different gas stations, and can follower was done about 7,000 miles ago.
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Our red line is at 6k rpm, but I accidentally revved it to about 6500 in second gear today, and nothing kicked in to stop me. I'm surprised that this car doesn't have a rev limiter at red line. Looking for about rev limits on these engines (2.5)?
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I got a fuel cut tonight in 3rd gear at 6500rpms. First time, 30 degrees outside. Carbonio the only other mod. Looks like I need a HPFP next.
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I recently purchased a 2011 GTI w/ DSG transmission. Today for the first time, I used 'S' mode and while I understand it has a more aggressive shifting, I'm not sure what I saw is normal. The car rev'd to 6500 rpm and it just hanged there and didn't up-shift.
I put the car back into 'D' mode and the rpm still stayed at 6500rpm until I stepped on the brake, that is when it up-shifted. Is it normal? The car was not in manual mode. Car only has 385 miles on it and I sure as heck didn't like seeing the rpm hanging at redline for 5 seconds with so few miles on it.
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Have this issue when creeping forward or backward. If I did not know better I would think that I had a broken motor mount. When I creep forward or backward I can feel and hear the entire front subframe shutter just a little. It gets a little worst when everything is warmed up.
If you have had this, what did the dealer or you do to resolve? Until now I have decided to just deal with it. I have about 9k on the clock.
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I have a golf mk4 1.8T AGU, about one week after i had my k04-023 turbo on and all the Stuff that comes along it started "stall" (don't know if its the right word??) in the High gears, most 5th gear but it first start doing it when i hit boost (3000rpm)
I runs on Stock n75 valve.. I though i could be a boost problem, maybe the Stock system cant handle it? I did install a boost gauge to see if it was the was the problem, and it dont Seem like it. In first it runs from 1.4 bar and drops to 1.2. Same in second and third. But in 4 and 5th it goes to 1.7 bar and drops to 1.4.. I did wonder it maybe the n75 valve cant handle 1.7 bar??
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I have the normally aspirated 3.7 V6. The ownersd manual talks about the trucks computer telling you when the oil changes are needed.....But, at 6500 miles, bnothing has come through. I have not changed the oil yet on it. I feel this is a huge sin, but am not sure.....I was raised you changed the oil every 2-3 grand. But the owners manual on this truck says the computer will tell you when to. Should I just go ahead and change it?
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Early around 8k on my 14.5 SE I had to have the valve cover gasket replaced due to oil creeping out of the edge of the valve cover close to the air filter box. Now yesterday as I was replacing my fog light bulbs I noticed that there is some oil creeping around the bolt on the bottom where the Transmission casing joins the engine.
I understand that I'm putting a lot of miles on this car (10K now), but I really don't feel like its right for a car to have such oil leaks so early in its life time.
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[URL].............
Happening to all 3 cars. All 2012
2- Passat Se 2.5L 60k/40k miles
1- Jetta TDI 65k miles
Shown driver rear rotor on Passat ( was cleaning Abs speed sensor ring)
Started about 35k miles on each car as a small ring creeping from the outer edge. Backside has maybe 1/4-1/2" clean braking surface.
Slide pins moove free and smooth
Pads were not seized
Caliper isnt seized
Notice the different ridges on the inner pad.
Obviously I want to replace the pads and rotors but before I do. I want to figure out the source for this disease so keep from prematurely replacing them in the future.
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When I get in the car, I noticed this. The head rest keeps creeping up. Every time I get in, it must creep up a little. And after time, it's extended up to almost max height. I'm constantly having to adjust it down. I'm 5'8" if that makes a difference.
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Got a '98 rodeo 3.2 with 160k. A couple weeks ago when stopping at red lights I noticed the temp gauge creeping up to the hot when stopped. This happened about 4 years ago and I was just low on coolant. I kind of figured that was the problem this time and added coolant. Then I started noticing coolant on the ground dripping from the skid plate a little toward the passenger side. The vehicle is parked on the street in front of my house so the vehicle may lean slightly to the passenger side. This rodeo is only driven during the week and then sits for 2-3 days on the weekend.
Over the last couple weeks I have noticed that it doesn't really leak during the week when it's being driven daily and if it does, it's just a drop or two. Now when it sits for 2-3 days there is a pizza sized leak under the vehicle probably about 18 inches wide. Since the overflow wouldn't hold coolant, I figured that it was cracked or had a leak. I removed the reservoir and didn't find a leak. I seen no evidence of a leak anywhere else, however since it's dripping from the skid plate, I assume that it's leaking on the front side of the engine. What to check. Seems strange that it doesn't really leak when running or hot, only when sitting for a few day.
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Ok, I get that a regular car with an automatic transmission will creep forward unless you keep your foot on the brake. Why does that happen in our cars when they are in EV mode at a stop? Unless the pedal is pressed to send power to the electric propulsion system why shouldn't it just sit there absent influence from gravity?
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I bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
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The car I drive is a 1997 Civic EX, and if I drive it for about five minutes, the temperature gauge starts creeping up real fast. It'll go to the red if I let it, and the only thing that brings it down is turning on the heater and fan, at full blast. which is pretty miserable in summer.
I looked under the hood and found the radiator fan isn't starting up, no matter how hot it gets. So I checked the fuse - it looked good. Replaced it anyway just to be sure. No change. Then I replaced the relay switch. that didn't change anything. And I also replaced the fan motor. Still nothing.
I have read elsewhere that I should check my thermostat, but I can't see what it has to do with the fan motor not starting? also that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor might be faulty but it is my understanding that that controls fuel-air mixtures and I just don't know.
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So pre waterfest my car was accelerating as expected. It'll pull fine until about 3250-3500rpm then it'll get a little kick until about 6k. Now, I can feel the boost at around 3500rpm but it's very mild. It only holds boost until around 4500rpm.
I don't have a boost gauge installed but I have an app that will connect to a Bluetooth OBD dongle I have. I've used it in the past and it tells me how much boost I'm making. It shows that I am peaking around 24-27 lbs of boost. But it just drops shortly after without me letting off the throttle at all.
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Whenever I try to brake boost my GTI the throttle seems to cut out. is this some kind of safety feature where brakes will dominate throttle when both are depressed?
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I have a 2003 jetta 1.8 turbo with a APR chip boosting 21 psi. I have had no problems for the first 5 years or so, but then recently within the last year it started predetonating when I boost over 9 psi, I've tried replacing the injectors, upping the fuel pressure, using 93 octane fuel, (which I always had used anyways) replacing the oxygen sensor and other things to no avail. Also there are no codes regarding this issue stored in the computer.
I highly doubt there is any issues with carbon buildup in the pistons.
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So popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
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car is losing boost as soon as it goes above the 3500 range.
it will reach peak boost at WOT but begin to tamper off as it goes higher in the range and will reach as low as 5lbs towards 5-6k
i have an apr stage 2+ tune and my peak boost is usually 17-19 lbs.
check all hoses and everything checks out fine.
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I'm having a strange issue with my R. My idle seems to get bouncy/seek RPM after i boost and come to a stop. No codes present on VCDS
Mods are Unitronic stage 1+, VWR intake and R8 ignition coils
~54K miles and pulls hard.
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my car into VAG COM and since then it hasn't boosted past 4 lbs. it has Revo stg 2, K04, aftermarket side mount, full exhaust and a couple other bolt ons. Before the car was spiking at around 23/24 lbs. after pressure testing the system I found that the turbo inlet pipe was lose, so I tightened it. Still no change. I tried holding the battery terminals together for 10 minutes to reset the ecu and I also tried clearing the codes through a handheld code reader. No codes even come up anyways for this. The car is a 1.8T.
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