Recently ran into an issue where my boost gauge stopped reading correctly and makes a weird buzzing sound under acceleration. (Whenever I am generating positive boost).
View 2 RepliesThe P3cars gauge to read battery voltage is misleading since it is reading the voltage when the alternator is running. How do i get it to read the actual battery voltage without the engine running?
View 6 RepliesSo popped my plastic shroud off to change my oil and thought it was strange the the hose for the boost gauge was really oily. Is it normal?
View 2 RepliesOkay, here's the car
AWP 1.8t mk4 GTI.
- stock DP
- Forge 007 splitter adjusted 25 clicks
- Swiss cheese stock intake with k&N high flow
- APR stage 1 93 tune.
My boost gauge is currently reading peak of about 15-16 psi. I replaces some vacuum hoses that appeared to be worn, and to no avail. I have no CEL, and no codes thrown at all. This sound like a boost leak.
Bought a 1.8t 04 gli. Was boosting 15 pounds so i did a boost leak test. Found pcv up hose from valve to y pipe at valve cover was almost blown in half, so i replace all of that stuff with oem.
Boost leak test again, found where boost gauge is hooked up to, turbo outlet to n75, the hose was leaking, i fixed that.
Boost leak test yet again, n75 was not clamped down, so clamped that.
Boost leak test one last time, held 10 psi before blowing the cap out of the intake. Which is pretty dangerous, my cap is made out of a spray can cut in half. Sounds like a canon. Anyways i heard zero leaks.
So now I am boosting 18psi and holding perfectly fine. Why I am showing ZERO vacuum on my boost gauge??
I live in Scotland so have a right hand drive 2003 MKIV R32. I got a VF stage 1 kit fitted last year and now I want to fit a boost gauge. I've bought a NewSouth indigo 0-30 psi gauge and a column pod.
What I need to know is where to take the feed from, where is the best place to fit the vacuum tube to get the best readings? any photos would be good.
I plan on fitting it this weekend along with my oil pressure gauge.
I purchased a P3Cars gauge and an analog boost sensor with an ECS boost tap. I seem to be getting some fluttering noise at higher boost (greater than about 15 psi).
It was my understanding that digital boost gauges didn't buzz, so I thought I high have some movement of the boost sensor, hose, or the interface box for the gauge. I've got these pretty well padded and fixed with zip ties.
Do I need to get an inline restrictor (cotton swab, filter or otherwise) to eliminate this fluttering noise?
I ordered the gauge kit, installed it with the printed out DIY (CIMs)
Looks great, everything is tight, no leaks. All power going to the gauge (even the dimmer).
When power is connected via the plug in the back of the gauge, the needle goes from -30 to 30, full swing like some newer vehicles, not when the car is turned on.
Here's the problem, is doesnt read anything. Sits at -30 at idle, rev (limiter) and under load. The DIY says it should be somewhere around -20 at idle.
The only thing I can think of is the pressure sending unit is broken. I know faulty equipment is not uncommon and I'm not mad if that is the case as long as it gets resolved, I just want to get this thing working. This is NOT a bash against CIM either, I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea.
Also, I used a forge boost tap. Everything tight, and secure, no leaks going to the filter, or the 4" hose from filter to psi sending unit. Did I miss anything that's not in the write up? Early 11 model DSG MKVI
My question may be unique -- I cannot find anything about this -- at an idle, what should the boost read? Sunday at WOT I saw 28.76 -- but at idle it generally reads 0.1-0.4 -- bounces around a little -- but is that about right? Also, at WOT and 28+ boost what should the VGT read? I really am trying to sort out what this information is telling me -- not is that normal or average but what is ideal and what represents a red flag -- cut the truck off you have a problem kind of numbers.
View 14 RepliesI own a 2004 Jetta 1.8t, about 6 months ago i had an oil leak problem and a cracked vacuum line. i fixed the oil leak and fixed the cracked line with 034 motor sports pcv hose kit. I snapped 2 more vacuum lines and repaired them with rubber hose. p0300, p0301, p0507, p0171, p0303. Are the codes I am currently having actually have had them for just over 6 months. I've replaced all plugs, I've upgraded to ecs tuning 2.0 coils. No fix, went back to oem coils which I am using now. It runs pretty good until i clear the codes. Then idles all over the place and the boost gauge bounces all over.
View 16 Replies I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
My boost gauge is bouncing around during the flutter at peak psi? I have a apr stg 2 evoms intake and full tbe exhaust 42dd...
Here is a exact video of the flutter i am talking about [URL] ....
The two slow engine is starting to bug me. Acceleration from 0-50km/h is getting a little ridiculous. Any way to improve acceleration performance other than stepping hard on the gas pedal and make it rev. 4km rpm ? When I compare this with my gf's 2.5L Golf its just day and night difference.
I don't want a noisy muffler or anything like that. I have never modded cars before and I'm not planning to go down that route either. After all this engine is over 10 years old right?
My gas gauge will read empty every once in a while then correct itself after driving for a few miles. Is it just the sensor sticking?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 R with 85,000 miles, APR chip running 93 octane with a HPFP and VWR cold air intake. I was driving my car today (slow driving on highest) and all of a sudden I felt no turbo boost, and heard a weird sound whenever I hit the gas. Car moved but would not get above 3500 rpms and couldn't really get past 60 mph. Again, absolutely no boost (I have a boost gauge as well to verify).
About to drop off the car at a shop but had a couple questions:
1. If the turbo is blown, can I still drive the car to the shop (not too far) without damaging the engine itself?
2. if the turbos needs to be replaced, what are my options besides getting the stock turbo replaced, without getting some crazy setup? This is my daily driver and I don't want to spend money beyond what I need to get it fixed, but it there is a stronger more reliable turbo for about the same as a OEM, I would want to consider... Also price for OEM replacement??
3. Without the mechanic looking at it, I'm just assuming it's the turbo but what else could be the issue? All the lines looks intact and intake is fitted correctly. I did have issues with my cam follower getting damaged at 45,000 miles (there was a hole in it) and I have been replacing it every 20,000 miles since. Didn't have any issues for 40,000 additional miles, but could damage to that cause turbo failure?
I just got my R32 less than a week ago, and recently I noticed this buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car. I did some searching around on here and found 1 post that refers to this sound, and says it could possibly one of the fuel pumps. Should I bring it in for service..or is this normal?
Also...what is the best intake for a 08 R32, whats some of the best websites to order parts from?
I have a 2009 Prius. Yesterday, I had a very strange (to me) thing happen. My gas gauge read all notches, full. As expected, it went down a notch at about 120 miles.
I sat in a parking lot for a bit with the car in ready, running, and park. I noticed that whenever the car would switch to using gas, the gas gauge would change. It would suddenly show all notches again, instead of missing one.
When it would switch back to battery, the notch would move down again.
It eventually moved down 2 notches (which is probably accurate since I was sitting for about 30 minutes) and then would jump back up to full when it switched to gas again.
I changed the sending unit and replace the oil filter with a motorcraft unit and still can't get the oil gauge to read pressure. Since it is a gear oil pump I don't believe it is the pump.
View 2 RepliesI noticed this sound on Thursday, I couldn't replicate the issue at first, but it's getting worse. I can now replicate it almost any time I get into boost in a higher gear (4th, 5th mainly). Partial throttle, usually starts around 3,000 RPMs. Can't quite tell where it's coming from, but it's a bit concerning. I've got 16,000 miles on it with no mods (DSG gti). It'll be going to the dealer next week for sure, but what it could be? Kind of afraid to be driving it, but my dealer is closed until Monday and I wont be able to get over there until the afternoon.
Sound starts at about 6 seconds into the video (it's quiet, but you can hear it well if your volume is up), turbo starts spooling up at about 4 seconds. The car has a slight hesitation when the noise happens, but it's not violent. No CEL.
Installed the wastegate actuator rod rattle clip on their R? I've been getting a buzzing sound under light load in first gear- very audible when it echos off a wall, etc.
[URL] ....
I just noticed yesterday when the turbo starts to spool up I'm hearing a whining sound as it hits boost. It happens in every gear and under all load conditions, from when I'm cursing around to WOT. I've had Stage 3 installed for a little over 20,000 miles now and this is the first issue I've had. It still pulls just as hard and I'm not throwing any codes, but it is a weird sound I've never heard before.
It also doesn't matter if the car is hot or cold, the sound is still there. I'm not blowing any kind of smoke or burning any oil. What can cause something like that?